Can I use pure lead to do a chamber casting?

358Scout said:
I really dont want to wait for Brownells order
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Yes, I've done it several times. You have to be very careful though to warm up the receiver first and spray everything that may come into contact with the lead with either mould release agent or graphite. Molten sulphur works fine as well.

Even a fiberglass resin compound works well, as long as you are careful to make sure there is lotsl of release agent slathered on everything.

If you're just trying to identify the cartridge, spray some PAM or something similar into the chamber and stuff it with plastercine. Then set it outside to freeze or put it into the chest freezer for a few hours. The plastercine will freeze rock solid and you can quickly take all of the measurments you need. By the way, the release agent allows the frozen plastercine to be easily tapped out with a wooden dowl rod, from the muzzle end.
 
lead melts at 621 degrees Fahrenheit ... Cerrosafe melts just above 150 degrees Fahrenheit (below boiling water) .... I guess if you are really confident that the release agent wont be displaced by the hot lead??? ..... personally I would wait for the cerrosafe.

Presume you have removed the barrel - if not be REALLY careful not to get the lead or glue in the lug recesses if its a bolt action....
 
Buy the cerrosafe. Like as not, you could find some locally. Check with the local machine tool suppliers. Make sure you get the correct low temperature alloy.

It'll be easier than putting the torch to your rifle to remove the melted lead, eh.

Cheers
Trev
 
If you want to get at casting rite away, you can use candle wax but I would oil the chamber first, plug the barrel and pour away, not as hard as cerrosafe but will give you a good idea as to the size but not much good for revealing small marks if there are any in the chamber, Just my thought's.
 
I am going to say no to pure lead because apart from melting temperature, it also shrinks considerably. Wheel weights also shrink but not nearly as much as pure lead. Cerrosafe is not only low temperature and easy to remove if some gets into an extractor recess but also does not shrink and in fact expands slightly several minutes after cooling. In its absence I have used paraffin wax (like you use in canning) and put a string down the center before pouring, so that if it cracks (during removal) I don't lose the pieces

cheers mooncoon
 
mooncoon said:
I am going to say no to pure lead because apart from melting temperature, it also shrinks considerably. Wheel weights also shrink but not nearly as much as pure lead. Cerrosafe is not only low temperature and easy to remove if some gets into an extractor recess but also does not shrink and in fact expands slightly several minutes after cooling. In its absence I have used paraffin wax (like you use in canning) and put a string down the center before pouring, so that if it cracks (during removal) I don't lose the pieces

cheers mooncoon
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MC, the pure lead does a fine job. You just need to be very carefull. The same blocking resin used when pouring lead into some barrel wrenches does a great job of packing any areas you don't want the lead in, including the bore. I've done it several times.

The chamber needs to be coated with mould release or graphkote. the lead usually fall out, once it's hardened properly.

This should never be done, no matter which method you use with the receiver still in the stock.

The main reason for making a chamber cast is to get a special set of dies made up or, ascertain cartridge case type and even bore dimensions at the throat. That's why it's important to make sure the receiver is warm. Doesn't need to be as hot as a bullet mould though.
 
I've used lead a few times. Just give the chamber a toot of WD 40 and I put the rolled paper plug in the bore.
Top it up and thunk it out with a cleaning rod. Lead cools pretty fast in the bbl.
Maybe others have horror stories.
Do what you feel prudent in the end I suppose.
Good luck
 
I haven't used it, but you can use 60%Tin/40%Lead solder. It has a melting point of 368°F/186°C (preferably not flux core ;) )

Here is a table of melt temperatures of other alloys.

SolderMeltingPointTable_zps348a1468.png


Pb - Lead
Sn - Tin
Ag - Silver
In - Indium
Bi - Bismuth

Cerrosafe - Melting point is 160° to 190° F. Cerrosafe has no definite melting point. Composition is 42.5% Bismuth, 37.7% Lead, 11.3% Tin, 8.5% Cadmium.


=>> BTW, CanAm has Cerrosafe at $30/pound.
 
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Oldgoat said:
Do a google on Roto Metals. I got a pound mailed to me in Can. Around 18$ a pound. I think shipping and handling about thes same. Would have to check visa to see exactly.
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That would be their Low 158-190 alloy. US$16/lb plus shipping. Interesting, I have a US post box... They also have tin ingots and lots of other interesting metals.
 
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