6x47 Lapua

Slug870

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I am looking to build a new varmint rig off a 700 action (.22-250 bolt) I have laying around and was wondering if I should consider 6x47 Lapua instead of .22-250. Having absolutely zero knowledge or experience with the 6x47, I was wondering if a few shooters who are familiar with the cartridge could offer up some opinions and or experiences? I have yet to research and compare the 6x47 vs the .22-250, but I figured here would be an ideal place to start.

As well, I have a few questions if anybody has the knowledge to help me out;

1. I need to find a dependable, knowledgeable source for info on the 6x47 Lapua; any suggested websites?
2. Can I use my .22-250 bolt (.4730 I believe?) for the 6x47?
3. Is the 6x47 a "barrel burner" as some suggest?
4. Is 6x47 brass available, or does one need to make it (fireforming etc)?

Thanks in advance, and I apologize for my "cartridge noobness" ;)
 
If you just bump up the 22-250 to 6mm or even 6mm-22-250 Ackley you have a great accuracy cartridge . Getting brass is not an issue. The 6mm/250 is almost the same as the 6MM International of BenchRest fame a few years ago and the Imp. version is a little bit faster. Dies available from Redding.
 
6MMBR.com will have most of the information your looking for.
Using your exsiting 22/250 bolt will work fine.
I haven't found the 6X47 particularly hard on barrels {I have two rifles chambered for match shooting}.
Brass is easily made by necking down factory 6.5X47 Lapua brass. One pass through a 6X47 die works fine.
Brass is readily available through Hirsch Precision in NB {Dealer on CGN}.
I only shoot 107gr bullets through both rifles and easily break 3000fps with great accuracy using IMR 4007ssc and CCI 450 mag primers.
If your going to order the reamer make sure to specify "No neck turn" dimensions for Lapua brass.

Hope this helps.
RC
 
I am looking to build a new varmint rig off a 700 action (.22-250 bolt) I have laying around and was wondering if I should consider 6x47 Lapua instead of .22-250. Having absolutely zero knowledge or experience with the 6x47, I was wondering if a few shooters who are familiar with the cartridge could offer up some opinions and or experiences? I have yet to research and compare the 6x47 vs the .22-250, but I figured here would be an ideal place to start.

As well, I have a few questions if anybody has the knowledge to help me out;

1. I need to find a dependable, knowledgeable source for info on the 6x47 Lapua; any suggested websites?
2. Can I use my .22-250 bolt (.4730 I believe?) for the 6x47?
3. Is the 6x47 a "barrel burner" as some suggest?
4. Is 6x47 brass available, or does one need to make it (fireforming etc)?

Thanks in advance, and I apologize for my "cartridge noobness" ;)

I've been shooting a Remington 700 chambered in 6x47 Lapua for more than 6 months. Previously this rifle was a 243 Win rifle which was shot out after 1600 rounds fired.
  1. Buy Berger's reloading manual! 6x47 Lapua is a great cartridge but 6XC is more common and 6.5x47 Lapua might be a much better choice.
  2. Yes you can but you should make sure buy contacting a highly qualified gunsmith (I'm a shooter not a gunsmith)
  3. 6x47 Lapua get longer than 6XC barrels, the barrel will still be good for 600 yards shooting after 2300 rounds (might not be true at 1000 yards) 6.5x47 has better than 6BR accurate barrel life and 6x47 barrel life should be 20% shorter.
  4. You simply neckdown 6.5x47 Lapua brass to 6x47 Lapua brass.

Unless you're a 6mm shooter (I'm one), you think that you should get a 6.5x47 Lapua rather than a 6x47 Lapua chambering.
Depending on my 6x47 Lapua barrel's life, I'll decide if I stick with 6mm bullets or try 6.5mm bullets to get better barrel life.

Alex
 
The only possible weakness is the SR primer. I know, I know there are arguments both for and against. Shoot in warmer weather with a 450 primer and likely, no issue but if you will use in the cold, may (emphasis on may) have issues.

But there will never be an issue with a LR primer. If I were to make this, I would just use 22-250 brass.

nice little wildcat and I feel the right case volume as a 6mm. Way too small for the 6.5 if using bullets over 130gr and/or going far.

Jerry

PS brass should be readily available. Has not proven to be too popular in NA shooting.
 
I built a 6x47 Lapua and had a hell of a time getting a load with consistent velocity until I started sizing my brass from cases with a large rifle primer. After that the thing came to life and became my favorite rifle of all time out to about 600 yards. I got my but kicked by the 7MMs at 800, 900 and 1000 yds.

I started sizing 22-250 brass but found it easier to start with 6XC brass.

I had a Schnieder Polygonnal Rifling Barrel on it with a tight neck chamber and it shot 1/8 MOA (really no BS!!!) Using 6XC large primer brass and DTAC 115 grain bullets.

It shot great until about 800 rounds and then just fell apart – all at once the barrel was toast.

I really wish the 6x47 was a standard round with large primer brass. Since that is not the case I would advise that you look hard at the 6XC since it has the large primer already.

The 6x47 is normally made by starting with 6.5x47 Lapua brass and sizing the neck down to 6mm and length trim. After that the case is pretty much ready to load.

If you decide to use 22-250 brass, you will need to expand the neck to 6mm and size the shoulder back. This will cause the side wall to collapse quite a bit – looks a bit like a mushroom. Then you need to length trim and fire a light load through the case to blow it out to the chamber. After that you are ready for full loads.

If you start with 6XC brass, you just size the case pushing the shoulder back about .050” and length trim. You are ready to go. The case side wall does not collapse during the resize.
 
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Lots of great info here, thank you all for posting.

Having spent a considerable amount of time reading various cartridge information pages over at 6mmbr.com, I am thinking that the 6x47 Lapua may not be the ideal cartridge for me after all. I will have to do more reading along with a comparison of a few other cartridges in order to make a decision on which one to choose.

Any "cartridge gurus" care to come over and sit for a few hours discussing a few cartridges? I'll supply the coffee, beers or even a bottle of scotch! :p
 
There is no magic chambering... or we would all be using it.

This debate has already gone round the block a few times over the last 50 yrs and pretty much every case has been modified and tweaked to find the perfect combo.

Simply put - decide on what you want this gun to do, how it will feed, and what bullet/performance you want to achieve. Then pick the case that fits that role and load it up.

The case is the displacement which determines the velocity of bullet. The barrel and bullet and load tuning will determine the accuracy.

There .... send coffee anytime.

Jerry
 
There is no magic chambering... or we would all be using it.

This debate has already gone round the block a few times over the last 50 yrs and pretty much every case has been modified and tweaked to find the perfect combo.

Simply put - decide on what you want this gun to do, how it will feed, and what bullet/performance you want to achieve. Then pick the case that fits that role and load it up.

The case is the displacement which determines the velocity of bullet. The barrel and bullet and load tuning will determine the accuracy.

There .... send coffee anytime.

Jerry

Lol, well said Jerry, thank you.

...I will send the coffee when I send you my next project... as soon as I choose the chambering! :p
 
dito for me

There may very well be a perfect rifle but perfect for what?

It’s like golf, you need a bag full of rifles to match the range and weather conditions and if hunting… well the animal too.

Everything is a compromise.

If you are into F Class and want only one rifle, then get a 308 and shoot FTR… done.

If F-Open, then you will sooner or later end up with 3 guns. That being a 6mm for 300 and 500 calm. 6.5 something for 500 to 800 calm and a 7mm or bigger for 800 windy back to 1k.

Remember this rule of thumb for long range loads… The powder charge for the most competitive rounds is always close to 1/3 of the heaviest practical bullet weight for the caliber. If you stick with this simple rule, you will be competitive.

Here’s the real head scratcher… In 2012 at the Ontario Rifle Association Annual Match an import :) from Quebec gave everyone a lesson in rifle shooting. He showed up with a 308 shooting 185 Bergers with a BC of what .550 or so. He cleaned up most of the events against the high BC 7MMs (BC .700) and all the FO shooters. In 2011 another real nice fella from Quebec out of nowhere did the same thing and won the whole ORA deal with a 308.

How do you rationalize that? The ballistic numbers say it should not happen, yet it did 2 years in a row.

I figure it has something to do with bullet remaining stable when side force winds come and go. I suspect it destabilizes smaller diameter bullets – sort of like a fly wheel and regardless of BC. A large fly wheel is stable and a small one gets kicked off center just a bit. Sorry – that’s all I got on that point.

If you want a gun to win matches then set it up for 700-800 yards. You may not win any single event but could win the match aggregate. OR you build a rifle for short range like the 6x47 with 115s and you will win medals at 300-600 but not likely the aggregate. That is until you show up with both rifles.
 
Maybe they were just better shooters?????

There is only so much ballistics can do for you and at LR, miss a wind call and you are loosing points.

The FTR combos run at spicy pressures are nearing the ballistics of the F open rigs. The next gen of Open monsters will distance themselves again but that may not happen for a season and certainly not everyone wants to incur the costs and wear.

Jerry
 
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