Mosin accuracy help

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Kiese18

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ok folks, I just made all the brass shims and put cork under the chamber and under the barrel front barrel band. next I went to the range and fired a bunch of 3 round groups but I would like to know if these groups are any good, i believe them to be alright but i am hoping to tighten them up even more. I am pretty new to shooting and I have not seen a mosin at my range to compare groups with so let me know.

also, I attempted to do the trigger mod and put a washer under the sear spring. the washer was 0.026 of an inch and after cocking the action to dry fire, the gun would not fire. I found that the trigger was contacting the trigger guard not allowing the trigger enough rearward movement. anyone else have this happen? any thoughts on filing the back of the trigger to gain some clearance or would this be dangerous

pics of groups to follow
 
While I'm only passingly familiar with the Mosin, I'm sure that removing some material from the back of the trigger and from the trigger guard, if necessary, will be just fine.
 
Kiese18 said:
ok folks, I just made all the brass shims and put cork under the chamber and under the barrel front barrel band. next I went to the range and fired a bunch of 3 round groups but I would like to know if these groups are any good, i believe them to be alright but i am hoping to tighten them up even more. I am pretty new to shooting and I have not seen a mosin at my range to compare groups with so let me know.

also, I attempted to do the trigger mod and put a washer under the sear spring. the washer was 0.026 of an inch and after cocking the action to dry fire, the gun would not fire. I found that the trigger was contacting the trigger guard not allowing the trigger enough rearward movement. anyone else have this happen? any thoughts on filing the back of the trigger to gain some clearance or would this be dangerous

pics of groups to follow
Click to expand...

That washer is too thick. try building up with washers made from a coke can. One thickness is about 5 thousands of an inch.
 
Range6_zps7194fddd.jpeg.html

http://s1293.beta.photobucket.com/u...pg.html?&_suid=136086780057505048177160457271
 
 
Mounting the bayonet only changes the point of impact, as for the groups they could be better I can get 1.5-2" 3 shot groups with new brass cased ammo.
As for the trigger job just polish the sear to a mirror finish and smooth the sides of the trigger leaf spring to help with the grit, if you still find it bad just use folded paper or foil and use a hole punch to make the hole, start small and test often ( #### rifle and drop but down on a carpet or hard floor with a towel or pillow on it, if it goes off the use less).
Now for the bedding just make it so the rifle sits nicely in the wood and has no wiggle room when the screws aren't holding it in the stock. And the barrel I just wrapped it with oiled( not motor oil) rags were the barrel bands are, just use enough to make it have a tight fit when the top handguard is on.
Remember every rifle is different so try different variation of that if the results are satisfactory.

But most importantly precision and consistency is the key to success, have the front sight in the same spot in relation to the rear site for every spot, use the middle on the front sight not the whole thing since it covers 12" at 100m and take your time and aim at the exact same spot, not a general area.

http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y474/Tremblayc314/image-9_zps717e6d5e.jpg
This is one best groups. This was the only one i didn't shoot over with my sks lol.
 
nice shot group Caleb314. i have a 2-6 power scope on it due to the front site being way to short. also, I am resting the gun on a bag (under the chamber area) but i think the trigger is too heavy to be super accurate. Really have to pull on it to fire so I will try the few mods mentioned above and hopefully get some better results.

Cheers
 
Assuming the rifle in question is a recent import/refurb, I suggest the following : 1 undo anything you have done till now, 2 mount bayonet, 3 tighten action screws, 4 take scope off (ESP if you are using one of the cheap chinese mount/scope combo), 5 practice till you get a round group of at least 4-5". Any group larger that 6" is you, not the rifle, IF the bore is decent. If the bore is crap, no amount of shimming is going to save you.
As a side note, I had a remington m91 that had a ten lb trigger & still managed to turn 3" groups. If you want a real rush, attend a local misurp shoot like the ones offered by the ora (depending on province). You will gain an appreciation of the qualities inherent to the three line rifle.
 
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Kiese18 said:
ok folks, I just made all the brass shims and put cork under the chamber and under the barrel front barrel band. next I went to the range and fired a bunch of 3 round groups but I would like to know if these groups are any good, i believe them to be alright but i am hoping to tighten them up even more. I am pretty new to shooting and I have not seen a mosin at my range to compare groups with so let me know.

also, I attempted to do the trigger mod and put a washer under the sear spring. the washer was 0.026 of an inch and after cocking the action to dry fire, the gun would not fire. I found that the trigger was contacting the trigger guard not allowing the trigger enough rearward movement. anyone else have this happen? any thoughts on filing the back of the trigger to gain some clearance or would this be dangerous

pics of groups to follow
Click to expand...

For the shim on the trigger sear spring, use an old government card ie. old Drivers licence etc.

They are the perfect thickness and very easy to cut and drill a hole through.

It also flexes to the slight curve of the receiver under the spring.

To ease the release on the cocking knob of the bolt, you can slowly sand down the small cocking knob that catches on the trigger spring sear.

Use your head to get the idea of the angle that you want to increase to make the cocking knob break cleaner/earlier.

You can also do the same to the trigger sear spring at the same time.

Easy does it though Comrade!! You can't put metal back on lol ;)
 
K will try I'll try credit card for a Shim spacer and a little bit of sanding on the sear spring and reinstall the bayonet
and head back to the range. Thanks all.
 
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