Does anyone have any idea where I can find bullets? I have been trying for a while now and nothing. Even called the guys from red jacket... I've seen videos on u tube of people shooting so there must be some somewhere!
Thanks
Thanks
mauser 13.2x92sr
- Thread starter polskiogorki
- Start date
Great! I'm looking forward to them!
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
if i can get my hands on a unfired round i found someone with a cnc lathe (your only way BTW id not try to even shoot a oringal round really rare) bullets are around .522" or so but the case is whats needed for copying (i seen a dummy round before for sale here but cant find it now maybe it sold)
its a hard round to make up as there is no other cartridge to convert into it also there is no load data for this round
its a hard round to make up as there is no other cartridge to convert into it also there is no load data for this round
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
nope not the same that is a rimless the 13.2x92r is a rimed round hence the R at the end
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
kind of useless to me fired unless it was resized
I have no idea about the cartridge but likely there is another round that is very close. If not, go to a CNC shop and get 20 cases made up that are turned to the proper dimensions on the outside, get a set of molds and cast some bullets. I would get the primer pockets made the same size as 50 BMG.
If you want to shoot this thing a lot, convert it to 50 BMG with a new barrel and set the original aside for collector purposes.
Have you slugged the bore??? The bullet diameter that fits may well be 50 cal.
Will the 50 cal BMG case fireform to the original case???
Just a few suggestions.
Bearhunter is on the right track. .50BMG was designed directly from the .30-'06 but could not get the wallop they wanted, so German AT ammo was dissected an the powder copied.
The cartridges are similar in size to great degree, the most noticeable difference being the more sloping shoulder of the German round. It looks like an 8x56R30M on steroids, the illegal ones.
Dimensions I have here indicate 3.65 inches case length for the 13.2 versus 3.91 for the BMG.
Bullet diameter on the 13.2 shows at .522 to as high as .525, depending on who is doing the measuring; Browning runs .511.
BASE of the 13.2 is .823 and that semi-RIM brings it out to .905 or so. Base of the Browning is .804 nominal.
The TuF round pushed an 803-grain slug at 2525 ft/sec for an ME of 11370 ft/lbs energy: NOT something your pet Tyrannosaur wants to stand in front of!
Interesting point is that the bases of the two rounds are so similar. If I were to attempt to make up a batch of 13.2, I think I would start with .50 BMG empties, knurl the bases just above the extraction groove just ever-so-slightly, turn off some thin bands from a piece of brass tubing, knurl their insides and apply a low-temp silver-solder to the cartridge casings and to the bands, then heat and serve: sweat the bands onto the base of the casings. Follow this by turning to just below the chamber diameter of the gun you will be using. Rims could be built-up in a similar fashion from "rimless" to "semi-rimmed" status, although the semi-rim of the 13.2 is there for headspacing; if your cases fit tight in the chamber, they are not really necessary. I really do not think it would be a huge job and it would sure pay off in terms of fun, if not of profit.
But I really think that .50BMG is the key in this.
Hope this helps.
The cartridges are similar in size to great degree, the most noticeable difference being the more sloping shoulder of the German round. It looks like an 8x56R30M on steroids, the illegal ones.
Dimensions I have here indicate 3.65 inches case length for the 13.2 versus 3.91 for the BMG.
Bullet diameter on the 13.2 shows at .522 to as high as .525, depending on who is doing the measuring; Browning runs .511.
BASE of the 13.2 is .823 and that semi-RIM brings it out to .905 or so. Base of the Browning is .804 nominal.
The TuF round pushed an 803-grain slug at 2525 ft/sec for an ME of 11370 ft/lbs energy: NOT something your pet Tyrannosaur wants to stand in front of!
Interesting point is that the bases of the two rounds are so similar. If I were to attempt to make up a batch of 13.2, I think I would start with .50 BMG empties, knurl the bases just above the extraction groove just ever-so-slightly, turn off some thin bands from a piece of brass tubing, knurl their insides and apply a low-temp silver-solder to the cartridge casings and to the bands, then heat and serve: sweat the bands onto the base of the casings. Follow this by turning to just below the chamber diameter of the gun you will be using. Rims could be built-up in a similar fashion from "rimless" to "semi-rimmed" status, although the semi-rim of the 13.2 is there for headspacing; if your cases fit tight in the chamber, they are not really necessary. I really do not think it would be a huge job and it would sure pay off in terms of fun, if not of profit.
But I really think that .50BMG is the key in this.
Hope this helps.
Did a quick search, and the 12.7 Soviet is .856" at the base, and 4.3" long. Wonder if there is enough meat in the case to turn it down to .823"? Swaging it down would take a die and rather serious press; a hydraulic shop press should do it. 12.7 Soviet doesn't grow on trees, though, and would be Berdan as well.
Several months ago, I heard of a 1918 Mauser that might be coming onto the market. Nothing has happened yet.
I agree with Smellie. Rebarrelling to .50BMG, without any alteration to the rifle itself would permit shooting and not harm collector value. The rebarrelling would be a one time expense, and ammunition supply would be greatly eased. If rebarrelling, I would install a brake.
Several months ago, I heard of a 1918 Mauser that might be coming onto the market. Nothing has happened yet.
I agree with Smellie. Rebarrelling to .50BMG, without any alteration to the rifle itself would permit shooting and not harm collector value. The rebarrelling would be a one time expense, and ammunition supply would be greatly eased. If rebarrelling, I would install a brake.
.
If you want dimensions of your rifle for purpose of making cases, you might try doing a chamber cast, using Cerrosafe or a compound designed for the purpose. A good machine shop could help you there. Brownells sells Cerrosafe or chamber casting material. A custom mould for the bullet can be ordered from several sources if you check online.
Do not use lead for a chamber cast, as it shrinks too much.
I agree with SMELLIE that a .50 BMH case could be reworked without too much effort. I have worked cases in a similar fashion for some odd calibred rifles, although not as big and powerful as this one. With the proper hydraulic press, it might even be possible to "bump up" .50 BMG BALL bullets, (not armour piercing or other types) to the proper barrel diameter. Another way would be to lathe turn bullets to the proper diameter.. I regularly bump up .35 calibre (.358) bullets to .366 and shoot them in the 9.3x57 Mauser sporting rifle that I have. You might find that the brass on the shortened case neck is a bit thick, so it will have to be turned down a bit.
One thing, when you do load ammo for it, make sure you load a fairly good load the first time, especially if you are going to fire form your brass. Too low a powder charge will not blow out the brass to fit your chamber, and it is possible to get blow back. This is indicated by smoked brass in the neck and shoulder area.
.
.
If you want dimensions of your rifle for purpose of making cases, you might try doing a chamber cast, using Cerrosafe or a compound designed for the purpose. A good machine shop could help you there. Brownells sells Cerrosafe or chamber casting material. A custom mould for the bullet can be ordered from several sources if you check online.
Do not use lead for a chamber cast, as it shrinks too much.
I agree with SMELLIE that a .50 BMH case could be reworked without too much effort. I have worked cases in a similar fashion for some odd calibred rifles, although not as big and powerful as this one. With the proper hydraulic press, it might even be possible to "bump up" .50 BMG BALL bullets, (not armour piercing or other types) to the proper barrel diameter. Another way would be to lathe turn bullets to the proper diameter.. I regularly bump up .35 calibre (.358) bullets to .366 and shoot them in the 9.3x57 Mauser sporting rifle that I have. You might find that the brass on the shortened case neck is a bit thick, so it will have to be turned down a bit.
One thing, when you do load ammo for it, make sure you load a fairly good load the first time, especially if you are going to fire form your brass. Too low a powder charge will not blow out the brass to fit your chamber, and it is possible to get blow back. This is indicated by smoked brass in the neck and shoulder area.
.
.
Last edited:
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
its not really for me but to put csings on the market i need a unfired round or case to do so bullets are around .522" (PS i also found a way to use a sleeve on a .50 bmg case to make it work)
i would never convert anything and advise not to do so to these old tank hunters im still on the search for one of my own cant find a unconverted boys
as to load data for these ATR's i dont have any but what i got for the .55 boys but a good load of trail boss with a cast bullet would be something
