S&W model 3 DA endshake fix?

[gyppo]

Hi guys, sorry to bombard you with questions about this gun...

I tried shooting some trail boss loads in the .44 today. Very pleasant to shoot these loads! Overall I was getting much lower velocities than I should have been. 3.1 grains of Trail Boss behind a 215 grain bullet got me about 440fps, while 3.5 grains gave me an average of 560fps with a low of 540 and high of 581. With a 240 grain bullet this load should produce 660fps according to Hodgdon's data, with the same barrel length.

The only thing I can think of is the cylinder gap is too big. The cylinder has a bit of endshake and I crudely measured the maximum gap at 0.02" which, from what I read, is huge for a modern revolver. I've looked around for a solution but the information I'm finding is for different revolver designs.

I don't know the name of the part, but can I shim the part in the center of this picture (Which is not mine)?

(What is this called?) When I unscrew it about 3/4 turn to move it back it rests against the frame when the action is closed, the end shake goes away and the cylinder gap tightens up.

I'm not sure if the cylinder is supposed to "head space" (for lack of a better term) on this part.

I'm going to get a set of feeler gauges tomorrow to measure the gap more precisely.

Thanks!

Ben

 

[H Wally]

Might be worth a try - I've noticed that some of the S&W's seem to have an excessively deep recess for that nub in their frame. If it were to occur from recoil I could see it opening up the gap a bit? Either weld and recontour the recess or make another one of those nub things and set it out a bit? Personally I'd be inclined to fill in the recess but it's a lot bigger a job.

 

[gyppo]

Might be worth a try - I've noticed that some of the S&W's seem to have an excessively deep recess for that nub in their frame. If it were to occur from recoil I could see it opening up the gap a bit? Either weld and recontour the recess or make another one of those nub things and set it out a bit? Personally I'd be inclined to fill in the recess but it's a lot bigger a job.

I'll give it a try, see if I can find a very thin washer. I'll probably end up filing one down to fit. The part that has the nub is independent from the ratchet, so the timing doesn't appear to be affected. I don't think there would be any advantage to manufacturing a new nub as turning it out a bit will achieve the same thing. And you're right, welding and re-machining the hole is too much for me!

B