6.5x55 to 6.5-06?

.284

.284

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Could a 6.5x55 be cleaned up by a standard 6.5-06 reamer?
I see that the swede has a .479 base compared to .473. Would the bolt face of a tikka t3 actually be .006 larger?
Would the taper of the swede require too much setting back to ream the 6.5-06 chamber?

Anyone know if a t3 in the swede has the mag blocked for that case or does it leave room for a 30-06 family size case?

Thanks
 
.284 said:
Could a 6.5x55 be cleaned up by a standard 6.5-06 reamer?
I see that the swede has a .479 base compared to .473. Would the bolt face of a tikka t3 actually be .006 larger?
Would the taper of the swede require too much setting back to ream the 6.5-06 chamber?

Anyone know if a t3 in the swede has the mag blocked for that case or does it leave room for a 30-06 family size case?

Thanks
Click to expand...
6.5x55 imp ?
 
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I am a bit curious to know what great advantage it would be to spend the money to convert a 6.5x55 Tikka to 6.5-06 if the 6.5x55 were loaded to the same pressure levels in the same rifle. With a 6.5x55 and 50,000 psi of pressure, you can get 2800 fps with a 140 grain bullet and the 6.5-06, using 55,000 psi will get you 3000 fps with the same bullet. Even in a standard load, a 200 fps gain in velocity is not an earth shattering improvement, and what would the velocity be if the 6.5x55 was loaded to the same pressure?
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The Swede is my favorite cartridge so I'm admitting my prejudice right off!

Due to the base diameter difference of the Swede and the modest gain, I don't believe this mod is worth it compared to the cost however its your rifle and money. As a comparison, about a month ago there was a nice commercial mauser with a stainless barrel and laminated stock in 6.5-06 on the EE and the price was very reasonable (it wasn't mine). I think the 6.5-06 is a super cartridge and have considered making one several times; I also considered buying the rifle just mentioned. Every time however I think about just how good the Swede is and that the -06 version is well represented by the several .270 s that I own. If you were starting from scratch then either round would be similar to build and both would perform well.

In the end, if you got to make the change, then I would suggest a different rifle or a re-barrel with a 24" barrel. In the past, I've had excellent results with a stainless 6.5 barrel from Corlanes.
 
The advantage? Why do it? Why does this even need to be asked?
This is gun nutz not "practical rifle shooter". Gunsmiths need to make money too.
I am well aware of the ballistics of both cartridges what I wasn't aware of was the details in the rechamber. I don't even own a 6.5x55 but I do have a reamer for the 6.5-06 as well as all the bushing dies and everything else for that cartridge. I like the 6.5-06 version and thought since the tikka's are already a 1-8 twist it might make a nice light hunting rifle for 140 partitions.

It was just a thought I had while reloading and thought I'd post it up since we all have things to learn and things we can share about shooting sports.
 
The 6.5-06 will likely be my next build, and you are right in your thinking. If i want it, i'll have it.:D Setting the barrel back enough to clean up the chamber will depend on the size of the shank in front of the action and on the barrel length. No point in having an 18"barrel on a 6.5 unless it's a bush gun. I think you can go to the longer case in the t3 by getting the correct mag, my t3 204 has a long bolt travel and the mag is blocked for the short 204 case, one slight disadvantage to a one size fits all type action. The difference in the bolt face shouldn't be a problem, mainly setting the barrel back enough to clean up the chamber is the stumbling block.
 
Andy is right, the base, not the case head, is larger on the 6.5x55. That being said, if you were to run the reamer in there anyway, you basically would end up with a 6.5-06 with a a chamber that was a tiny bit sloppy in the part that makes the least difference - the base. The worst that is likely to happen would be your brass wouldn't last as long due to working too much in the base, but that is also the thickest part of the brass, too. Screw practicality and why? questions, do what you want. I'm planning on building a 6.5-06 from scratch myself, already have reamer and dies.
 
I bought a 6.5X55 in a Tikka last year and the magazine is (from my understanding) the long action similar to what would be used for a 270win, 30-06 etc. Far as I know from reading and studying before that purchase, the only difference between the T3 mags is the short action models have a spacer at the front so the rounds don't slide around: This obviously doesn't exist in longer chamberings, which the Swede falls into. You should find the absolute answer here: www.tikka.fi

I'd ask a gunsmith what those thousandths of an inch bolt face diameter will mean when it comes to supporting the case head and extraction. Also if your barrel is contoured, especially in a sporter weight, the gunsmith will have to remove a bit of the breech end as you mentioned so that the rechamber would be to proper dimensions, to support the case - those few thousandths I expect will be enormous chasms if the barrel isn't shortened at the breech end, and if the chamber ends up being in the taper... again, the gunsmith will be able to verify if this project is viable. For the record, (not that I am biased against or for a particular caliber) I'd find another barrel or gun before bothering to try this potentially uphill all the way battle. Worst case, the bolt face won't allow it; second, the barrel won't allow; otherwise enjoy.

just the thoughts of someone who isn't a gunsmith.
 
it is worth noting that many north american brass manufacturers use a 30-06 case head for 6.5x55. this means it doesnt always extract or eject as reliably as european (PRVI) made brass in swede mausers
 
You will need to setback the barrel somewhat. Would need to measure the cases, but off the top of my head a good 1/2" at least.
The 6.5x55 Swede T3 boltface will be slightly larger, but will fit the .06 cases and extract without problem. If the mag is too short, you can buy one for a .270/30-06 and done. I don't remember any block in the 6.5x55 T3 I once owned.
 
gabrielguitars said:
Andy is right, the base, not the case head, is larger on the 6.5x55. ...
Click to expand...

please tell us the difference??

Rim, is just that

Base that part of the cartridge measured 0.200" from the bottom of the cartridge. Or is that Head?

and regardless of what it is called, it is nearly 0.010" difference x55 vice -06


for the OP, what would really help you decide, is once you get your rifle, take a 30-06 cut it down to 53mm and size it down to just fit the chamber, put a narrow piece of tape around the "Base" (about 1/8") so to center the cartridge in the chamber, then fireform it with inert filler.

once you see the bulge, YOU decide whether you can live with it or not... Then you'll know whether you need to set the barrel back or not. (my guess, you will to remove the bulge)
 
my only 2 personal case trials with unfired brass is remington and PRVI, the remington brass on a quick measure of 3 cases each shows smaller rim and smaller case head (measured immediately ahead of the extractor groove) for the remington brass

measurements (rim, groove, head)
PRVI:
.478 .418 .477
.477 .416 .477
.477 .417 .477

Remington:
.468 .402 .471
.470 .404 .471
.469 .404 .470

i am using unfired brass from the same package for each, stored at the same temperature. i measured with regular digital calipers, not a micrometer. on the one swede mauser i tryed, in order to extract the remington unfired cases, you have to be gentle and slow on the bolt. they rarely eject at all. the PRVI extacts and ejects great every time.
 
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