Reloading question for the M305 ... Primers and slam fires?

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Tikka223

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So I just watched a video on the Internet about the M305. The narrator explains that because the firing pin is free-floating inside the bolt there is a danger is will cause slam-fires if you reload your ammo with "sensitive" primers. Is there any truth to this? I used the search function and read a couple of posts about high primers. The video seemed to really warn against using certain primers.

I have a bunch of CCI BR2s on hand, would these be suitable? I've used them in a previous M305 I owned and I'm wondering if I can continue using them when I pick up a new one.
 
I'm following best practices with mine, just for that extra margin of safety, because I'm new to the platform.

But when I run out of #34 primers I expect I'll have to use regular cci 200, as I can't find the others anywhere.

I uniform my pockets, though, use a case gauge, and trim new-to-me brass to minimum length (and hopefully not need to again before the case wears out), and use the small base dies.
 
Avoid Federal and gold Winchester rifle primers. Ensure proper resizing of brass, and primer seating slightly below flush.

Gauging the resized brass for proper headspace is an excellent idea.
 
Im using CCI 200 and no probs at all, just make sure they are well seated . Not a single problem in over 1500 handloads.
 
Not to go into too much detail but I've reloaded over 500+ 308 for my m305 and have had one slam fire... and I knew it was probably going to happen but proceeded anyways.. Of you watch what your doing you should be fine
 
Good to know, thanks for the replies. I can't see when I would ever drop a round into the chamber and then close the bolt. As for primers being below flush, that may be a bit of work but I will check it out.
 
Tikka223 said:
Good to know, thanks for the replies. I can't see when I would ever drop a round into the chamber and then close the bolt. As for primers being below flush, that may be a bit of work but I will check it out.
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What press are you using.. A little trick I learned along the way is with the lee single stage press to prime on the hand prime then put the priming device on your press with not primers and when your about to seat the bullet push the case down (by moving the arm up) with some good force then go up and seat the bullet as per usual.. If they were not flush or below before they will be now
 
skip1600 said:
What press are you using.. A little trick I learned along the way is with the lee single stage press to prime on the hand prime then put the priming device on your press with not primers and when your about to seat the bullet push the case down (by moving the arm up) with some good force then go up and seat the bullet as per usual.. If they were not flush or below before they will be now
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if there is powder in the case this is extremly dangerous.....
 
It's not fully seating a primer it's a small shove that 99% of the time doesn't even move it.. I wouldn't put a bullet in it but in all reality without a bullet there's no pressure without pressure the worse thing that will happen IF .. And this is a massive long shot but IF it does go off it'll ignite and burn the powder.. Again I've done it with thousands of rounds without any problems, any ignitions and 1 slam fire. Take it for what it's worth
 
its just a little shove.... I have set off primers giving a little shove trying to get that last little bit when seating a primer in military brass., its was deafening in the basement.... with 45 grains or so of powder on top of that I'm sure it would pop/deform the case and through burning powder in my face.

If the primer didn't seat fully in the first place it is probably going to take some force to move it a bit more. I check my primers before I load powder and pop them on the press to attempt to fully seat them if I'm not happy with the fit. If your looking anyways , look before you put the case in the reloading tray as aposed to when your seating the bullet.
 
skip1600 said:
What press are you using.. A little trick I learned along the way is with the lee single stage press to prime on the hand prime then put the priming device on your press with not primers and when your about to seat the bullet push the case down (by moving the arm up) with some good force then go up and seat the bullet as per usual.. If they were not flush or below before they will be now
Click to expand...

I have an RCBS Rock Chucker kit but I always use a hand priming tool to prime the brass, I prefer being able to feel that the primer has been seated properly and that the primer pocket isn't too tight or too loose.
 
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515277

"Slamfire" writes:

"Never, ever drop a round in the chamber and trip the bolt release. In this mechanism always feed from the magazine. When a round is fed from the magazine the friction between magazine and round slows the bolt and that reduces the kinetic energy of the free floating firing pin. This will reduce the chances of a slamfire."
 
"...video on the Internet..." Most of which are nonsense. Kind of like getting your reloading data from Wikipedia.
You're just reloading for a semi-auto. Not a big deal. You must FL resize, every time, and watch the case lengths and the COAL. Other than that, reloading for a semi is no different than loading for a single shot.
Standard LR primers, seated properly, work just fine. You don't need CCI "Mil-spec" primers. Those are just a marketing gimmick for magnum primers.
 
I have to disagree. Reloading for a semi is different from loading for a single shot when it comes to chosing the powder. A gas operated rifle like the m14 is sensitive to the pressure curve generated by the combination of powder and bullet weight (and probably some other factor). Use loads only that are proven safe in an m14. A bolt action rifle is much more tolerant of a range of powders and bullet weights.
 
With a Garand or M14, when you drop a single round into the chamber and then let the bolt FLY forward, yer #### WILL fall off (well, after the out of battery slam-fire, I mean) :nest:

Use a clip (enblock) or the magazine installed in place, then feed from the mag lips that way. Just hold on to yer dicks.... :D

Cheers,
Barney
 
There's actually a fella at my range who is excellent at removing blown cases from m14s .. Good thing they are built as well as they are otherwise a lot of people would be getting hurt
 
skip1600 said:
What press are you using.. A little trick I learned along the way is with the lee single stage press to prime on the hand prime then put the priming device on your press with not primers and when your about to seat the bullet push the case down (by moving the arm up) with some good force then go up and seat the bullet as per usual.. If they were not flush or below before they will be now
Click to expand...


Wow, that just about goes against everything I was taught about safety and common sense when reloading.
 
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