Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Or a NF maybe?
New member, looking to upgrade my Remington 700 PSS. Expert advice requested!
- Thread starter longarm21
- Start date
ultimate_monkey
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- victoria BC
no no, schmidt and bender, or march
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I'd wager that this is a 1:12 twist. And I know this against the grain here, but it would be very interesting to see how Black Hills 175 grain match HPBT would perform in this rifle.
Cheers!
I thought about that too but due to OP bought this package from a friend so I assume he didn't pay full retail / market price for it and he might not be ready to drop $2500 on a scope ( price one with zero stop taxes etc ) plus Sightron offer best bang for the buck and its within most people reach ( at least for precision shooting guys ).
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
That's fair. Just for info when I bought my NF the Sightron III was not even made then. A friend recently purchased one and I'm kind of impressed with the optical clarity of his. I have no plans to change my optics now, but there are decent choices other than my NXS.
I have a S3 8-32x and love the clarity and I was told the same thing the clarity is very close to the NXS but I can't afford to drop another $1.5k for the NF at the time so I settle for the Sightron.
The clarity might be close or on par but can't beat the NF for its robusticity and I have promised myself one day I will get a NF (LOL).
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
When you get around to buying one, do yourself a favour unlike myself. I had more cash then smarts and with zero research just purchased the 12-42x56mm. I would have been slightly better off buying the 8-32 version instead. It has more elevation come-ups. Which is very nice when you are pushing past 1000 on a regualr basis and you are using a 20 MOA base IMO. (for 308 Win)
Good advice and thanks for the tips I appreciate your insight and value your opinion.
I think my next scope will be NXS in either 5.5-22x or 8-32x in MOAR ( yeah I am a lazy guy and don't really want to mess with all the conversion while shooting and like my adjustments matches the reticle's subtensions ) and I will compare the specs on total elevation adjustment before dropping my hard earn $$$.
Cheers
This scope is iffy at best. Its clarity is somewhat iffy at range. I have trouble seeing bullet holes at 200m some days. I was going to buy an SL8 next year but instead I have decided to upgrade my optics to a NF so I have begun saving for that. In the meantime I am looking at my options for stock, rings, base, and possible bedding and trueing.
I am also interested in the AICS as I like how it fits me, however it is a heavy chasis and I think if I ever get into competition shooting one day which is my ultimate goal, that extra weight might put me over the weight limit?
The HS precision is a nice stock, I find a few things with this setup:
My eye relief on this SS scope is terrible. I keep getting scope bite on my nose. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but from time to time I it happens.
I hunt coyotes often with this rifle so I like it to be robust, and hold zero even when I'm out with it. The AICS may make it too heavy to carry, as it is already pushing it for weight.
The dual rail mount is not ideal and I am planning on replacing this asap.
The scope rings I have - I have been told they are designed more for a battle rifle. Not so much a precision rifle.
To date I have been using entirely factory ammo. The lower grain bullets I have been having no luck with. My groups are large, and at long distances I am having trouble keeping them on paper let alone on target.
165 gr and up have been much better.
I have tried the following:
150 gr Federal Power Shok - terrible. Enough said.
165 gr Federal Vital Shok - fairly good consistency and seems quite stable out to 600m. went 5 for 5 on a gong at 600m so this is looking good.
165 gr Nosler Customs - perform very similar to the Federal 165 gr, but seem to group tighter.
180 gr Federal Power Shok - good consistency to date, and have managed to get my tightest group at 200m with these around 1"
With that said. I have saved all my brass, and I have about 300 brass casings so in the summer I am planning on getting into reloading. I have watched all of Ryan Pahls videos and I am going to follow his method for finding a good load for this rifle. But first I am going to get some work done on the rifle to bring it up to speed. While this rifle isn't exactly a 1000 yd tack driver yet, it does have some very good qualities and I can see it maybe getting there one day if I take the right steps.
Still looking for input on scope rings and bases. Are the badger ordnance ones good?
I am also interested in the AICS as I like how it fits me, however it is a heavy chasis and I think if I ever get into competition shooting one day which is my ultimate goal, that extra weight might put me over the weight limit?
The HS precision is a nice stock, I find a few things with this setup:
My eye relief on this SS scope is terrible. I keep getting scope bite on my nose. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but from time to time I it happens.
I hunt coyotes often with this rifle so I like it to be robust, and hold zero even when I'm out with it. The AICS may make it too heavy to carry, as it is already pushing it for weight.
The dual rail mount is not ideal and I am planning on replacing this asap.
The scope rings I have - I have been told they are designed more for a battle rifle. Not so much a precision rifle.
To date I have been using entirely factory ammo. The lower grain bullets I have been having no luck with. My groups are large, and at long distances I am having trouble keeping them on paper let alone on target.
165 gr and up have been much better.
I have tried the following:
150 gr Federal Power Shok - terrible. Enough said.
165 gr Federal Vital Shok - fairly good consistency and seems quite stable out to 600m. went 5 for 5 on a gong at 600m so this is looking good.
165 gr Nosler Customs - perform very similar to the Federal 165 gr, but seem to group tighter.
180 gr Federal Power Shok - good consistency to date, and have managed to get my tightest group at 200m with these around 1"
With that said. I have saved all my brass, and I have about 300 brass casings so in the summer I am planning on getting into reloading. I have watched all of Ryan Pahls videos and I am going to follow his method for finding a good load for this rifle. But first I am going to get some work done on the rifle to bring it up to speed. While this rifle isn't exactly a 1000 yd tack driver yet, it does have some very good qualities and I can see it maybe getting there one day if I take the right steps.
Still looking for input on scope rings and bases. Are the badger ordnance ones good?
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Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
No problem buddy!
And it appears that longarm21 is on the right track.
Have a good one........
ultimate_monkey
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- victoria BC
65 moa for the 32x
Measily 45moa for the 42x
On the other hand, could even drop down to the 22x and have 100 moa of elevation .. Optically clarity makes a HUGE. Diferance over magnification. No problems spotting targets past 2k with my 25x S&B
After doing some more research the Sightron - SIII SS - 8-32x56mm Long Range Mildot looks like it wouldn't be a bad next step for me. My only concern is does it have enough elevation. Will 70 MOA be enough for me to shoot to 1000M and still zero at 100 or 200m? With a 20 MOA base of course.
Not an expert but I think I can answer your question:
I don't know what you are shooting factory load or handload so I just use Hornady 168 gr A-Max for example.
According to the load data your bullet should leave the muzzle at around 2700 f/s on your 24" barrel and the ballistic coefficient for 168 gr bullet is .475 and based on a 100 yards zero I use their ballistic calculator and come up with this:
If you look at the chart your bullet drop is about 389.6 inches and you need 37.2 MOA to compensate it so in another words the S3 should have more than enough elevation adjustment for you to make a 1000 yards shot even without the 20 MOA rail.
Just for giggle I did another calculation on how far you can shoot with the 20 MOA rail.
On this chart you can see at 1600 yards you requires a total of 96 MOA of adjustment and with the 20 MOA rail and 70 MOA of elevation adjustment of the scope you should be able to shoot a little over 1500 yards without hold over but all these are based on calculations and you might not get exactly 70 MOA of adjustment after you zero your rifle at 100 yards.
Also, if you shoot at those ranges at a regular basis there are better calibers choice other than 308 win.
On this chart you can see at 1600 yards you requires a total of 96 MOA of adjustment and with the 20 MOA rail and 70 MOA of elevation adjustment of the scope you should be able to shoot a little over 1500 yards without hold over but all these are based on calculations and you might not get exactly 70 MOA of adjustment after you zero your rifle at 100 yards.
Also, if you shoot at those ranges at a regular basis there are better calibers choice other than 308 win.
Wow ok then the sightron I'm looking at should be more than enough. I'm really only looking at up to 1000. Still wondering which rings I should buy that are tough and hold zero out in the field? Any advice?
Also what range do long range shooters typically zero at? I mean right now I'm zeroed for 200m.
Also what range do long range shooters typically zero at? I mean right now I'm zeroed for 200m.
- Location
- Western Canada
I love my March, would be a great choice if the funds are available
- Location
- Western Canada
This is under the implication that the scope is zeroed at the bottom of the elevation travel, ex. if you had 90 moa, you would need to be zeroed at the bottom, with the turret totally bottomed out, rule of thumb is you take the total elevation and cut it in half, ex. 70 moa is 35 moa of usable travel plus the 20 moa of the base
Just for giggle I did another calculation on how far you can shoot with the 20 MOA rail.
On this chart you can see at 1600 yards you requires a total of 96 MOA of adjustment and with the 20 MOA rail and 70 MOA of elevation adjustment of the scope you should be able to shoot a little over 1500 yards without hold over but all these are based on calculations and you might not get exactly 70 MOA of adjustment after you zero your rifle at 100 yards.
Also, if you shoot at those ranges at a regular basis there are better calibers choice other than 308 win.
You should be ok, usually your scope zeros at half your moa at 100 yards, in your scope that will give you 35moa + 20moa from the rail, you should have 50 MOA of up from your 100 yard zero. When I shot 175gn Berger VLD's at 2650 fps I needed 35 Moa of elevation from my 100 yard zero to reach 1000 yards.
I have used TPS rings and bases for years, never had a problem, very tough and well priced
I have used TPS rings and bases for years, never had a problem, very tough and well priced
