I'm facing a situation where the range I shoot at is going to ban steel jacketed bullets over the summer. They do this every year to prevent potential forest fires. So I'm wondering if anyone has any experience trading out the steel jacket bullets for copper jacketed lead cores in surplus ammo??
Eastern version of Mexican Match
- Thread starter enefgee
- Start date
I thought it kind of made sense, as long as I keep the bullet weights as close as possible - it'll still be cheaper than what they ask for brass cased, copper jacketed ammo. I'm wondering about the disassembly more than anything, and if I'll need a collet bullet puller. Also wondering about accuracy - though from a 12 inch barrel, it's not the first thing on my mind.
Kayser Sose
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Van Isle
What he said. I've disassembled groups of ammo, weighed the total powder, and divided by the number of rounds. Works a charm.
How do you deal with the steel cases though? I'm a new reloader so I really would like to know.
Kayser Sose
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Van Isle
'Deal with steel cases'? I'm not sure what you mean...
Pull bullet x10, dump all powder into a clean yogurt tub, divide its weight by ten (in grains avoirdupoid), put that amount of powder into the case, select new bullet, seat into case. That's what I mean.
Once fired steel cases get thrown away; they have scrap value.
Pull bullet x10, dump all powder into a clean yogurt tub, divide its weight by ten (in grains avoirdupoid), put that amount of powder into the case, select new bullet, seat into case. That's what I mean.
Once fired steel cases get thrown away; they have scrap value.
So if it's an unfired case that you just pull the bullet out of, you can just reseat it and it will be OK?
Yup - probably a good idea to put a crimp on it when it's put back, many mil rounds are "sealed" with waterproofing at the neck, which can't be replaced. The sealant 'glues' the bullet in place. Neck tension will only be a couple of thousandths, which will increase when the bullet is pulled. You also have to remember that mild steel (case) is not harder than tool steel, or carbide (die).
- Location
- Lac Pelletier Sask
and push the steel bullet in a little to break the original crimp, otherwise your beating up your bullet puller. Berry's bullets work good as a replacement 123gr, about the cheapest out there
Already got a puller, would just need a collett for the caliber. Still a good idea to push them in a little?
boltonscouter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- parts unknown
Yes, you want to break the seal. Use your bullet seating die to do this. You only need to push the bullet 10 or 20 thou into the case to break the seal. Crack the seal on 50 or so then switch over to the collet puller die. Makes extracting the milsurp bullet much easier with the collet puller. Collet puller is the only way to go if you have quantity to process.
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Thanks for the tips!
