10/22T Problem - Case Blowouts *** Update Post 39 - Problem Identified***

:confused:so where did the extra brass go?

As the man said out the rear--thank god for glasses;)

better clean them glasses....the top edge of the rimed area is CLEARLY visible. The missing case length did NOT go "out the rear". In both the base has ballooned...and the case separated AT THE ROLL....explain the missing main body case length if they all started the same.
 
please explain to me then how the case on the right (obviously a different brand....no mid case crimp) is shorter than the loaded round especially considering both the bullet crimp and the case base (visible in the hole) are clearly visible? Where'd the rest of he case go?

as far as the middle one....please explain the variance in the location of the mid-case crimp compared to the loaded one, and again: the end of the case is as it came from he factory with the visible crimp....so where did the extra brass go?

Yup, sure looks like a short and a long to me. Can't see how the different lengths and crimps can be explained any other way.
 
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Yup, a short and long somehow made their way into that ammo box. The brass didn't "fly out the back" and the case base somehow magically reattached to the mid part of the case.
 
The shortest case might have the ballooned brass smashed back inside the case by the bolt. Note the flap of brass on the right side. In any case, it certainly looks like the gun is firing out of battery. The extractor is not jammed into place by any chance?
 
please explain to me then how the case on the right (obviously a different brand....no mid case crimp) is shorter than the loaded round especially considering both the bullet crimp and the case base (visible in the hole) are clearly visible? Where'd the rest of he case go?

as far as the middle one....please explain the variance in the location of the mid-case crimp compared to the loaded one, and again: the end of the case is as it came from he factory with the visible crimp....so where did the extra brass go?

The one on the right is definitely a differnt brand, but it is a 22LR. There is brass blown out the side and the case is partially collapsed. The one in the centre is the same brand and out of the same box as the loaded round. Any difference in length from the mid case crimp to the case mouth is only thanks to the crappy iPhone picture. It too has brass, and a lot of it, blown out the side and the base is collapsed badly.

But what do I know. It's only my ammo and my rifle and I've personally handled the longer blown out case. As much as I appreciate the help, anyone who is going to continue to argue further that the rounds are Shorts mixed in with LRs can keep their advice to themselves.
 
Here are a couple more that show the ruptured case better. This is the short one.

6C33A5A3-5FB6-42BC-A8D6-888F67BDC3AC-4068-00000591D8791287_zps027eee87.jpg

4F2E1116-96CF-414F-A93C-09F0D456D7F3-4068-00000591D37234ED_zps85900658.jpg
 
I noticed that some folks were claiming that in addition to a .22 Short case being in the mix, there was also one from a .22 Long.
Doesn't a .22 Long use a case the exact same length as a .22 Long Rifle?

At any rate, it very much looks as if the rifle fired with a portion of the cases hanging out in the open air.
For some reason, the rounds aren't being fully seated, with the bolt closed behind them.
Something kept the rounds from chambering freely.
 
OP, I am almost positive I have your problem pegged.

I was having the same exact problem with my 10/22. This is not a problem with the extractor/ bolt... This is an out of battery detonation caused by a tight chamber.

Turns out my barrel was a Target chamber, so a bit tighter then the standard chamber. When used with most brands of non-target/match ammo, the cartridge will not fully seat in the chamber. Due to the design of the 10/22, it will still fire when out of battery, causing the exact set of circumstances your photos show.

You will not be able to tell with a snap cap, as seen here...

DSC01867_zps75a555b9.jpg


However, if you drop a live round in the chamber, you will see that it is about 1/8" OOB.

DSC01874_zps8b1d4750.jpg


Resulting in blowouts like the one on the left, and mangled and stretched cases like the two in the middle when it doesn't blow, if you looked through your fired brass they would look like these. A .22 fired from a properly functioning gun looks like the one on the right.

DSC01871_zpsb88e020c.jpg


You will need to ream out the chamber with a standard .22lr reamer if you want to use bulk ammo, your only other option is to use the very high end match ammunition.

The final result will be that you can drop in the cartridge no problem.

DSC01875_zpsf2dbbb73.jpg


DSC01876_zps5e4a3f12.jpg


Hope this helps you out OP.
 
Dude, that is a huge help and the photos really tell the tale. I've never shot high end match ammo out of it but I will try some when I get home. I have a box on Lapua Polar Biathlon, some Fiocchi Biathlon and some Eley TenX that I can try. The Winchester T22 is match ammo but certainly not $15 per box stuff (though it shoots like crazy out of my Anschutz M54).

I can't wait to experiment in a few weeks. I appreciate the help.
 
OP, I am almost positive I have your problem pegged.

I was having the same exact problem with my 10/22. This is not a problem with the extractor/ bolt... This is an out of battery detonation caused by a tight chamber.

Turns out my barrel was a Target chamber, so a bit tighter then the standard chamber. When used with most brands of non-target/match ammo, the cartridge will not fully seat in the chamber. Due to the design of the 10/22, it will still fire when out of battery, causing the exact set of circumstances your photos show.

There's still an issue with the chamber specs. A factory spec match/Bentz chamber should reliably fire all 22 lr ammo, other than Stingers, as the case is too long. At least that has been my experience. I have two barrels with match chambers and they both feed/fire all ammo I've tried and none of it has been match or target ammo; CCI Minimags, Federal Champion, Winchester Wildcat, American Eagle,etc.
 
So an update. I took the rifle apart and tested the chamber. Every brand of ammo on hand chambered with ease. I found no broken parts or other issues so I contacted Ruger who directed me to send it to their warranty depot in Quebec.

The warranty guys contacted me this week and advised me that the previous owner had ground away part of the rear of the bolt which lightened it and subsequently allows it to open before the pressures had dropped to a safe level.

I bought the rifle from a CGNer who didn't make any mention of modifying the bolt or anything else other than telling me that he changed the trigger group and added an extended mag release. I wish that I could remember who it was so that I could out him and warn others that this idiot is out there trying his hand at gunsmithing. I even went through my feedback but can't say for sure who I bought the rifle from. Dipstick cost me $232 in repairs plus shipping both ways.

If the guy I bought this rifle from happens to be reading this, do us all a favour...take all your tools, every one of them, to the nearest body of water and throw them in. Then go find someone, preferably a large biker-type fellow, and have him repeatedly kick you in the nuts. You have no business working on firearms and your idiocy could lead to someone getting hurt. Idiot wannabe gunsmiths are the biggest risk to other shooters out there. If you don't know what you're doing, and can't be honest with yourself and admit that you don't know what you're doing, then stay the hell out of the shop!

Aah...I feel a bit better now.
 
Would the commonly practised radiusing of the rear of the bolt be enough to cause this? I've not wanted to go that far with my bolt, as I am worried about this exact problem occurring. Maybe with the addition of a heavier spring?
 
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