setting headspace
- Thread starter bruno
- Start date
Yes, too little headspace will prevent safely closing the bolt on properly sized cases. The advantage of using an objective standard like a go gauge, is that you know its dimensions are correct and any properly sized ammunition will chamber.
Thats what we're trying to tell you...the thing you're missing is the go gauge. Sounds like you had this one fiqured before posting. Just out of curiosity, how did you determine your case is the correct dimension?
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- near Prince Albert
The only thing I'll say about setting a minimum headspace with your resized/empty case IMHO, is that factory ammo may not chamber. If you set it to your dies, and only use reloads, I can't see a problem.
You may not be setting the headspace to standard specifications if you don't use a steel go gauge... however you will be setting the chamber so the cartridge head clearance is minimal and it will work with your cartridges if you make them all the same as the one you set the barrel with.
sorry, should have mentioned earlier, but I will get go and no-go gauges, was just hoping to be able to go shooting before they get here. I would check/reset when they get here but was hoping I could use the case for this one outing. I would try all rounds(40) before leaving.
Bruno, you will be just fine using your brass for headspace. It's definitely better to have headspace gages, but so what if you are off just a smidge. It's a Savage right and you can just adjust the lock ring if you find it's not right.
Too tight would not be a safety concern, because the cartridge would not go in, so you could not hurt yourself.
Too much headspace is what to watch for, because that could be a safety problem.
After you have the barrel where you think it should be, just add one layer of aluminum tape (like you use on a clothes dryer vent) on a head of your brass. This tape measures .004" thick. If you can close the bolt on that case with the tape on it, then you should probably tighten up the barrel a bit more. This gives you an adhoc go and no go gage.
So to summarize, somewhere between a new case and one with aluminum tape on the back would be just fine if you don't have the proper gages handy.
BTW, it is not uncommon for some of the better gunsmiths to set the headspace off your once fired brass from your previous barrel. That's part of the black magic side of barrel fitting. Wildcaters tend to be a creative lot.
Too tight would not be a safety concern, because the cartridge would not go in, so you could not hurt yourself.
Too much headspace is what to watch for, because that could be a safety problem.
After you have the barrel where you think it should be, just add one layer of aluminum tape (like you use on a clothes dryer vent) on a head of your brass. This tape measures .004" thick. If you can close the bolt on that case with the tape on it, then you should probably tighten up the barrel a bit more. This gives you an adhoc go and no go gage.
So to summarize, somewhere between a new case and one with aluminum tape on the back would be just fine if you don't have the proper gages handy.
BTW, it is not uncommon for some of the better gunsmiths to set the headspace off your once fired brass from your previous barrel. That's part of the black magic side of barrel fitting. Wildcaters tend to be a creative lot.
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The way to do it is with a steel go gauge however if you must do it with a case use a few new ones to compare and not a resized one .
It isn't the best practice but it does work in a sense that it will get you shooting faster but you won't know for sure what your head space is .
I remember reading in a gunsmithing book but don't remember which one where the author says it can be done in a pinch but like I stated with a new unfired case.
It isn't the best practice but it does work in a sense that it will get you shooting faster but you won't know for sure what your head space is .
I remember reading in a gunsmithing book but don't remember which one where the author says it can be done in a pinch but like I stated with a new unfired case.
great. got it done. took about twenty mins. used a 2x4 pine, 1 1/4" wrench with steel pins. little bit. of warmth, rubber mallet and bench vise. took some adjusting the setup, but once positioned properly in vise, with lug locked from turning, easy. no residue on threads. first time bbl was off. will get proper wrench as I kept dropping pins, but this worked, not a mark left. and I marked original bbl before removal to ease install later. I plan to switch back and forth. and get more bbls in diff cals.
sorry. got the nut warm with heat gun. not hot. just warm. and I meant I set I in the vise so I could put a piece of wood against the recoil Lu to prevent it from turning. tried a bolt in the wood, but being pine it just moved the bolt. used small piece of oak against side of recoil lug and vise.
