V Block suggestions for 10/22?

Slaymoar

Slaymoar

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I have read many things about the V blocks out there. Some saying it helps droop, some say it creates more issues. After installing my 10/22 into the troy T22 frame - I noticed that my 10/22 has barrel droop. At the end of the free-float rail, it is about 3-5mm low from center. Is this a good application for using an aftermarket v block? If so, which one should I get?
 
The thing that most people do wrong when installing a V-block is that they OVER-tighten it.
When you over-tighten it, it actually pulls the barrel downward slightly and in a lot of cases, may be the reason owners experience feed problems (FTF).
Snug the block bolts finger tight, then go another 1/4 turn with your allen key using only your thumb and finger. (or 10-15 inch/lbs with torque wrench)
 
Anyone tried anything like this? It puts a little upward pressure on the barrel.

ht tp://www.gunsmithertools.com/gunsmither-1022-elevation/
 
Dlask Arms makes a V-Block with the elevation set screw... Torque the screws to 15 inch pounds against the set screw counter pressure... Do some accuracy testing... Then back-out the mount screws and adjust the set screw (in or out), retorque the mount screws to 15 inch pounds against the new set screw depth... When you find the most accurate set screw depth play with pressure on the mount screws to fine tune... You will be surprised at how your groups respond.
 
I had the Dlask Adj. V Block .. it will not fit into the Troy T22 ... And with the oem block that is non adjustable I to had barrel droop. The barrel tenon on my Dlask barrel is not tight and sits loose in the receiver. I ended up using a small copper shim to take up some slack in the droop and it is now centered in the fore arm of the Troy chassis.
 
Basically I'm just looking for anyone in canada selling an aftermarket vblock that fits in my troy T22 chassis. I guess the Tacsol seems to be one that comes up often..
 
your best bet is just to try what you find ... I was going to put my chassis in a drill press and make the vblock cut out a bit bigger, there is a lot of material and space to accommodate this but I decided against it.
 
Slaymoar said:
I think ill just slip a coin in there or something.. keep it simple.
Click to expand...

A coin will be to think. Go to a auto parts store and find some brass or copper shims if your going to try that.

The shim I used was thinner than a dime, and I just placed it between the barrel and the block.
 
jt_trouble said:
A coin will be to think. Go to a auto parts store and find some brass or copper shims if your going to try that.

The shim I used was thinner than a dime, and I just placed it between the barrel and the block.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think ill do that, thanks for the heads up.. I figured a coin would be at the upper limit, but id have to take the rifle out to have an eye at it.
 
Found the problem: Rear sight on the stock barrel was being pressed down on from the "upper" of the Troy T22. Found that the rear sight was nicked.. filed it down and now everything is smooth, and the barrel is level.

Go figure.
 
Slaymoar said:
Found the problem: Rear sight on the stock barrel was being pressed down on from the "upper" of the Troy T22. Found that the rear sight was nicked.. filed it down and now everything is smooth, and the barrel is level.

Go figure.
Click to expand...

The rear site can be tapped out with a punch.
 
Dovetails are drifted out in one direction only. Left to right when viewed from behind the rifle. They are tapered so drifting the wrong way will mess up the sight, dovetail or both. That being said, the 10/22 rear is in there pretty tight.
 
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