Lee Enfield Help

I really don't do values, friend, because that's not why I'm into these things.

If I really wanted one of these (which I do) and if I had the money (which I do not) and if the bore still was good (which we do not know), then I would figure it should be worth 800 bucks, so I would go anywhere up to that figure. Some may go higher, others not that high. It is a very highly-subjective thing.

A rifle such as this was built for international-level competitions which were (and are) under the auspices of the DCRA: Dominion of Canada Rifle Association. If this rifle was actually USED in top-level competitions (Palma, Camp Perry, National shoot in Ottawa, Commonwealth shoot in Bisley) then THEY WILL HAVE A RECORD OF IT.

That is the beauty of rifles such as this one: they are historic pieces which CAN be researched.

Really part of Canadian history..
 
these are about the best i can do for a picture of the bore

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Would this bore be considered good or fair?

Looks like a dark bore with somewhat worn rifling; a pretty common bore for military surplus. Also looks like it could do with a good cleaning and then make the determination.

Start with a funnel in the chamber and slowly pour boiling water through the bore Ă  la SKS, then some patches of your favourite Hoppe's-type solvent, then you can see how much brushing and scrubbing and foaming cleansers you'll need to deal with lead build-up. You can likely get it looking (and shooting) quite impressive with a little work.

What it really looks is in-conclusive until you can get better pictures.
 
Good spot SteveBC, the safety lug and a chunk of the bolt body underneath it is indeed broken off. Some target shooters used to remove those lugs, mostly on No4s for reasons involving shortened cocking pieces, high strength springs and shorter lock times, but it was not a smart move. The purpose of the lug was to prevent the bolt handle being raised when the rifle was at half-####. If someone who wasn't familiar with the Lee Enfield action tried to force the bolt open with the rifle at half-#### they *might* cause such damage.
 
The lands MIGHT be getting a tad burnt at the Leade (portion of the bore just forward of the Chamber), but I would have to see it in order to judge properly.

The view from the Muzzle shows that there is certainly lots of meat there and the Lands are square-edged and sharp, the way they are supposed to be.

If you really want to see how well this rifle can shoot, load up 20 rounds of .303 with 38 grains of IMR-4895 powder and a Sierra 180-grain Pro-Hunter bullet. This bullet has a FLAT base; Enfield rifling (which this rifle most definitely uses) has a decided preference for flat-based Bullets. Now her is the tricky part: you seat your Bullets to the overall Length of a Ball Cartridge; with the Sierra bullet, this crowds the Leade just a bit, which is safe in a new rifle but which this rifle just MIGHT like.

Note carefully: this is NOT an intense load but it does reproduce the by-test most-accurate VELOCITY for the .303 round in this rifle: 2250 ft/sec or very close.

You BENCH the rifle and rest the Fore-end of the Stock, JUST forward of the Magazine, on a padded rest (small sandbag works fine). Your Target is at 100 yards and it is the bottom-left-corner of a 12-inch Black square which is on a 2-foot White background. Trigger Control is essential, as is Breathing Control. Ideally, you will sight the Rifle on your Target, take a deep breath, take up the SLACK in the Trigger, allow part of the breath to exhale slowly until your are comfortable, STOP exhaling, then check your aim for a final time (the UPPER-RIGHT-hand CORNER of your Front Sight should JUST TOUCH the Bottom-Left Corner of the Black)...... and SQUEEZE the Trigger.

Open the Bolt and let the Rifle COOL for a minute.

You take your SECOND shot ONE MINUTE later, NOT immediately. This gives your "Sniper's Zero" for the rifle. (BTW, it is also called a "Hunter's Zero: first shot out of a dead-cold barrel with a follow-up in 1 minute). Frankly, if you can hold it, I would not doubt that THIS rifle can put them both under a Quarter.

This is not an "old Army gun" by any means. This one is a Precision Instrument and must be treated as such.

BTW, the marking on the Butt Socket is absolutely correct for a COMMERCIAL Target Rifle. It has NOT been scrubbed.

Hope this helps.
 
The lands MIGHT be getting a tad burnt at the Leade (portion of the bore just forward of the Chamber), but I would have to see it in order to judge properly.

The view from the Muzzle shows that there is certainly lots of meat there and the Lands are square-edged and sharp, the way they are supposed to be.

If you really want to see how well this rifle can shoot, load up 20 rounds of .303 with 38 grains of IMR-4895 powder and a Sierra 180-grain Pro-Hunter bullet. This bullet has a FLAT base; Enfield rifling (which this rifle most definitely uses) has a decided preference for flat-based Bullets. Now her is the tricky part: you seat your Bullets to the overall Length of a Ball Cartridge; with the Sierra bullet, this crowds the Leade just a bit, which is safe in a new rifle but which this rifle just MIGHT like.

Note carefully: this is NOT an intense load but it does reproduce the by-test most-accurate VELOCITY for the .303 round in this rifle: 2250 ft/sec or very close.

You BENCH the rifle and rest the Fore-end of the Stock, JUST forward of the Magazine, on a padded rest (small sandbag works fine). Your Target is at 100 yards and it is the bottom-left-corner of a 12-inch Black square which is on a 2-foot White background. Trigger Control is essential, as is Breathing Control. Ideally, you will sight the Rifle on your Target, take a deep breath, take up the SLACK in the Trigger, allow part of the breath to exhale slowly until your are comfortable, STOP exhaling, then check your aim for a final time (the UPPER-RIGHT-hand CORNER of your Front Sight should JUST TOUCH the Bottom-Left Corner of the Black)...... and SQUEEZE the Trigger.

Open the Bolt and let the Rifle COOL for a minute.

You take your SECOND shot ONE MINUTE later, NOT immediately. This gives your "Sniper's Zero" for the rifle. (BTW, it is also called a "Hunter's Zero: first shot out of a dead-cold barrel with a follow-up in 1 minute). Frankly, if you can hold it, I would not doubt that THIS rifle can put them both under a Quarter.

This is not an "old Army gun" by any means. This one is a Precision Instrument and must be treated as such.

BTW, the marking on the Butt Socket is absolutely correct for a COMMERCIAL Target Rifle. It has NOT been scrubbed.

Hope this helps.

now where would i find the ball cartrige lenght? I have only loaded for my 300wsm.
 
This has been a very interesting thread for me as I am lucky enough to own a gun like this in the no4 variety.

With the proper PH5C rear sight on my gun and a very similar load as described I have put 4 rounds shot from 80 yards into a single ragged hole!!

These guns REALLY can shoot!!

Congrats!! That's a real gem you picked up.
 
Cerealblast, pick up a can of WipeOut and give it a try, and leave the stuff in the bore overnight. You may have to repeat this, but you'll be surprised at all the crud and copper that will come out. That first patch will likely be black and blue. Great stuff, make sure you shake before you attach the rubber tube, and don't let it get on your wood: it'll screw up the finish.
 
Cerealblast, pick up a can of WipeOut and give it a try, and leave the stuff in the bore overnight. You may have to repeat this, but you'll be surprised at all the crud and copper that will come out. That first patch will likely be black and blue. Great stuff, make sure you shake before you attach the rubber tube, and don't let it get on your wood: it'll screw up the finish.

Where can I find this "wipeout"?
 
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