enfield revolver cylinder won't index fully...how to fix??

saskgunowner101

saskgunowner101

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Recently picked up an early 1930's Enfield revolver, this one still has the hammer spur, so it can be used in single action. When cocking the hammer gently, the cylinder doesn't fully index itself. If done quickly, it will index about half the time. In double action pull, it seems.....to index but can't be positive. Also, the extractor star doesn't pull out and jump back in, it just goes out and goes in. The cylinder will pop off after doing this 4 or 5 times. I bought it as a beater, for a beater price, so any advice to get it back to functional would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Hi. You really need to give more info. Which model? You're going to need parts and those are specific to the Mark. Gun Parts has some, I think.
What's the chambering? If it's .455, find ammo first. If it's a .38, .38 S&W isn't terribly hard to get.
 
Sorry, just because I know what I have, doesn't mean everyone else does!!:p

It's a No.2 MKI, with a crown on the right side, in 38 S&W cartridge. Serial # A5###. The frame, barrel, and cylinder #'s all matching, but the date on the barrel is 1932, while the frame date is 1931 (end of the year mix with start of the year special?). I'm already set up for 38 S&W as I've owned a couple of these revolvers previously.
 
It would need to be fitted - if you can get a new hand it'll be oversized in order to be fitted to the individual gun. In the world of revolvers, there are no drop in parts. In fact, you can build a Smith and Wesson revolver within the variance allowed for each part, and end up with a gun that doesn't work at all. Every revolver has extensive hand fitting, the older the revolver, the more fitting that's needed.
 
If push comes to shove and you can't find a replacement hand you could try "stretching" the old one. It involves careful peening or tapping the hand lengthwise between the pin and the formed end. It's tedious and requires reassembly from time to time to check proper lockup on all chambers.

I've only done it on Uberti single action 1860 Colt Armys, but it works well. I did a quick search of your problem and it's mentioned on the cast boolits forum, as well as stretching the hand to fix it.
 
Turf said:
If push comes to shove and you can't find a replacement hand you could try "stretching" the old one. It involves careful peening or tapping the hand lengthwise between the pin and the formed end. It's tedious and requires reassembly from time to time to check proper lockup on all chambers.

I've only done it on Uberti single action 1860 Colt Armys, but it works well. I did a quick search of your problem and it's mentioned on the cast boolits forum, as well as stretching the hand to fix it.
Click to expand...

I came across that idea in my searches as well....just not sure if I'm ready to go there yet. Did you anneal the metal before peening, or is that not even a concern?
 
saskgunowner101 said:
I came across that idea in my searches as well....just not sure if I'm ready to go there yet. Did you anneal the metal before peening, or is that not even a concern?
Click to expand...

No annealing required and according to the gunsmith I talked to at Taylor & Co not advised. In the case of the Ubertis the amount I needed to stretch the hand was minimal, maybe 1/32" if that. I was hesitant at first but figured what the heck, if I screwed it up a replacement was easy to get. I got lucky the first time I did it and stretched it enough that it fit and worked perfectly after reassembling to check it.

As instructed by Taylor's smith I placed the flat side of a punch on the hand and hammered that instead of the hand directly. I went from the pin end and worked toward the opposite end 3 or 4 times hammering gently with each pass. To tell you the truth I was gob smacked that I got it right the first time without screwing it up. :D
 
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