300wm Sierra 180 HPBT match how much RL19?

J

janssen

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Posted in reloading forum but no response, really really want to reload today if possible. My Speers book doesn't list this bullet. Can I just pick a fairly close bullet and use that data? How interchangeable is the data? Do you guys have books from all the manufacturers?

Sorry for the probably simple questions - new to reloading and have no mentor to walk me through the first couple.

Also where is some good info on process for developing a good long distance round for my .300Wm? Some starting points like powder / bullet type/size to use.

Thanks and apologize for the miss post, it's actually you guys fault as you where so helpful with my barrel breakin questions :cool:

JJ
 
I'm shooting a Hornady 208gr A-max over 72gr of reloader22. I was getting 2935 when the temps were around 0*C.

The A-max is going to be the best bullet you can shoot for a good price. Shooting a 230gr Berger Hybrid OTM Tactical would be a little bit better but the price of them makes it hard to justify.

What rifle are you shooting? Whats your barrels twist rate?
 
K0na_stinky said:
I'm shooting a Hornady 208gr A-max over 72gr of reloader22. I was getting 2935 when the temps were around 0*C.

The A-max is going to be the best bullet you can shoot for a good price. Shooting a 230gr Berger Hybrid OTM Tactical would be a little bit better but the price of them makes it hard to justify.

What rifle are you shooting? Whats your barrels twist rate?
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Am shooting a remington 1903a3 action with a 24" 19-10 gain twist barrel from Ron Smith. New barrel and am getting ready to work up a round for it - as I learn how to reload :)

I take it you chrono all your loads? Is it worth getting a chrono, or just go by results?
 
janssen said:
Am shooting a remington 1903a3 action with a 24" 19-10 gain twist barrel from Ron Smith. New barrel and am getting ready to work up a round for it - as I learn how to reload :)

I take it you chrono all your loads? Is it worth getting a chrono, or just go by results?
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I'm only interested in a load if its giving me max velocity, for the most part. I use my 300WM for long range shooting. I start off by finding my safe max powder charge then adjust the bullet seating depth to give me good accuracy. Then I chrono to get an average velocity for my ballistic calc.
 
OK now I am confused - I thought that bullet seating depth was a function of your chamber - so that the bullet is just sitting off the lands, and that max velocity might not be nec,. the most accurate load for a round.
 
janssen said:
OK now I am confused - I thought that bullet seating depth was a function of your chamber - so that the bullet is just sitting off the lands, and that max velocity might not be nec,. the most accurate load for a round.
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Depending on how your chamber is throated you will have different COAL's for a given distance off the lands.

My rifle just so happens to shoot well at close to max and 0.005" off the lands. Yours will be different.

You don't have to be anywhere near max to have an accurate load. You can use the starting load and adjust the seating depth and most likely find an accurate load.

You said you were looking for a load that is good for long range shooting. So you should be looking for the most velocity possible while still being safe. Once you find a powder charge that is close to max and shoots well, then you adjust the seating depth. I start 0.005” off the lands and work away in 0.005” steps until it shoots the way I want.

Also you will want to look for a bullet with a good ballistic coefficient.
 
K0na_stinky said:
Once you find a powder charge that is close to max and shoots well, then you adjust the seating depth. I start 0.005” off the lands and work away in 0.005” steps until it shoots the way I want.
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Just remember never to work the opposite direction, towards the lands. Pressure increase the more you go towards jammed and you'll exceed your max.
I normally start jammed .010"
 
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