- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
Hey guys any idea where i can get a number 1 or 2 bolt head? took the gun to my gunsmith to get the barrel torqued and he said the head space is no good,
Thanks
Winchester30-30
Thanks
Winchester30-30
NO4MK1 bolt heads
- Thread starter Winchester30-30
- Start date
- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
i got really ticked off at this guy, will not be getting buisness from me, said to my face "so you like all this junk" i was like no i love my milsurps,
That's when I would have said "Would you like shoot against me and my JUNK on a range sometime?" That usually ends the conversation with me smiling and the other guy wondering if my turd guns could beat his fancy new rifle? A gun is a tool and it's all about who's using the tool.
As for headspace, o-rings, fireforming and then necksizing seemed to do the trick. I guess it all depends on how bad the headspace is. I do have a no1 here with a terribly sloppy chamber and headspace on the loose side of the specs. I just o ring the brass on the first loading then necksize only after that. Seems to be working thus far.
- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
ODD, that "junk" was good enough for the army for two world wars, Korea, and Vietnam.
Not to mention that the same "JUNK" was sold out of service and has probably put more meat in the freezer then all other rifles in this country combined!!
You shouldn't be able to vote in this country unless you own a Lee Enfield!!
- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
hes a local guy who just does it as a hobby, i was pretty ticked, he also said that my ross would be dangerous, i think i need to sell it now, im too scared to shoot it, (joking, not going to sell it) this will most likely be the last time i take stuff to him, most everything else i can do myself, but i just think, im giving you monet to fix my gun obviously its not junk, that and the bore is shot out appparently, it looked ok to me, but what do i know,
I've met lots of guys like him. If it ain't the newest, the fanciest, or most expensive then it's worthless. I had one client who "pooh-pooh'ed" my trusty Lee Enfield. He kind of got quieter when I showed him what kind of groups I get out of my handloads. GOTCHA!!!!!
One of the guys behind the counter at a shop in Portage LA P said the same thing to me when I stopped in to see if they had any LE's in, laughed at him and carried on shaking my head.
- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
its hard to deal with these guys, i love my milsurps, the way there made, im not afraid to drop it or lean it against a tree, im trying to get rid of my synthetic rifles and go to a nice wood sturdy stock, i just dont think they have a right to say my milsurps are junk and no good,
"...to get the barrel torqued..." Whatever for? If the barrel is loose, you have far greater issues than headspace. You need a barrel vice and action wrench, a proper action wrench, to fix it. A local hobbyist is highly unlikely to have or want to buy the proper tools to fix a Lee-Enfield barrel issue. And don't let anybody near your rifle who says it can be done with vice grips or a pipe wrench.
Marstar is listing No. 4 bolt heads at $19 each. They're listing 0's, 1's and 2's.
I'd be inclined to spend the money and buy a set of headspace guages. Brownell's.
Marstar is listing No. 4 bolt heads at $19 each. They're listing 0's, 1's and 2's.
I'd be inclined to spend the money and buy a set of headspace guages. Brownell's.
Cheap bastards homemade Enfield headspace gauge.
1. Measure the length of a new or resized .303 British case and write it down.
2. Just using your fingers seat a fired spent primer in the primer pocket.
3.Now slowly chamber this test round and then eject, now remeasure the case and write it down.
4. Now subtract your first case measurement from the second case measurement, the difference between the two measurements will be your head clearance or the air space between the rear of the case and the bolt face.
5. Now add your head clearance to your rim thickness and you will have your total headspace measurement.
You do not need headspace gauges, all you need is a set of vernier calipers, a fired spent primer and be a cheap bastard.
Trust me.
1. Measure the length of a new or resized .303 British case and write it down.
2. Just using your fingers seat a fired spent primer in the primer pocket.
3.Now slowly chamber this test round and then eject, now remeasure the case and write it down.
4. Now subtract your first case measurement from the second case measurement, the difference between the two measurements will be your head clearance or the air space between the rear of the case and the bolt face.
5. Now add your head clearance to your rim thickness and you will have your total headspace measurement.
You do not need headspace gauges, all you need is a set of vernier calipers, a fired spent primer and be a cheap bastard.
Trust me.
Our ED is not only a (self-proclaimed) cheap bastard, he also KNOWS HIS STUFF and can TEACH it.
Thanks, Ed!
BTW, easy casing to use for your Test case would be one of the 1942 - 1945 DI (Defence Industries) casings. Rim thicknesses on them were held SO close to the .063" MAX that it is astonishing..... especially when you remember that they made close to 3 BILLION of them that good!
Thanks, Ed!
BTW, easy casing to use for your Test case would be one of the 1942 - 1945 DI (Defence Industries) casings. Rim thicknesses on them were held SO close to the .063" MAX that it is astonishing..... especially when you remember that they made close to 3 BILLION of them that good!
Even as much as 10° overturn will create a gap between the bolthead and the bolt body. I believe the copy of EMERs I have specifies not more than 12° overturn, but that is an old copy and I may be remembering incorrectly. None is best, if you're setting up a bolthead.
When the firing pin is forward, the collar on the firing pin should be resting on the rear face of the bolthead. This is what should stop its forward movement. You can confirm this by unscrewing the bolthead a half turn or so until the pressure of the firing pin and spring is transferred to the safety lug on the cocking piece.
Normally, the safety lug on the cocking piece should not be touching the forward edge of its slot below the bolt handle, and when the bolthead is screwed in all the way, the cocking piece and firing pin should be able to move freely side to side about 1/8". This also tells you the firing pin collar is resting against the rear face of the bolt head.
I can't provide illustrations like Ed's unfortunately.
When the firing pin is forward, the collar on the firing pin should be resting on the rear face of the bolthead. This is what should stop its forward movement. You can confirm this by unscrewing the bolthead a half turn or so until the pressure of the firing pin and spring is transferred to the safety lug on the cocking piece.
Normally, the safety lug on the cocking piece should not be touching the forward edge of its slot below the bolt handle, and when the bolthead is screwed in all the way, the cocking piece and firing pin should be able to move freely side to side about 1/8". This also tells you the firing pin collar is resting against the rear face of the bolt head.
I can't provide illustrations like Ed's unfortunately.
