Problem with SKS

KenJ

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Hi,


I am new to shooting. I have a Russian SKS and I'm having a problem with it not firing after about 50-60 rounds. The problem goes away after I take it home, clean it, and re-oil it. I've noticed that the firing pin gets "sticky" but not enough to stop the firing pin movement with a little effort. I've already replaced the trigger assembly so that should rule out the hammer spring.

I bougt the SKS from a friend and he had replaced the firing pin with a spring loaded one to prevent slam fire. I'm using corrosive surplus ammo with steel casing.

Here are some pictures of the primer of the rounds I've tried firing and a picture of the bolt and firing pin.











Can anyone offer an explanation or solution?

I came across this website and they offer a service to increase the reliability of the SKS but I'm not sure if this applies.

http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
 
SKS doesn't need any spring loaded firing pin. Just replace it with the original one and you will not have any problems. Just clean it every time. If you don't have the original firing pin - take it apart and clean inside the bolt make sure you do not lubricate the firing pin
 
SKS doesn't need any spring loaded firing pin. Just replace it with the original one and you will not have any problems. Just clean it every time. If you don't have the original firing pin - take it apart and clean inside the bolt make sure you do not lubricate the firing pin

Like Grin said, if you haven't already tokan the bolt completely apart and cleaned out the firing pin channel, do that first
 
All great advise here.

The problem comes from the firing pin, replace it with the original one and give it a good cleaning at the same time.
Problem solved.
 
From the photos it looks like you also have a deformed firing pin tunnel at the bolt face (The metal has a slight raised lip). I had this issue with my first SKS and it took a bit of thinking to figure out the the springed pin damaged the bolt face.

I wound up having to smooth out the bolt face after replacing the springed pin with the original. You do not need a aftermarket spring pin on milsurp ammo in a SKS UNLESS your shooting modern ammo. Then it's not a bad idea IMO.
 
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Wow, thanks for the quick replies! I do not have the original firing pin. Would removing the spring work? Or would that be dangerous?


From the photos it looks like you also have a deformed firing pin tunnel at the bolt face (The metal has a slight raised lip). I had this issue with my first SKS and it took a bit of thinking to figure out the the springed pin damaged the bolt face.

I wound up having to smooth out the bolt face after replacing the springed pin with the original. You do not need a aftermarket spring pin on milsurp ammo in a SKS UNLESS your shooting modern ammo. Then it's not a bad idea IMO.

I'm curious, I thought the idea of a spring pin is to keep the pin from getting stuck in the "out" position. How does this change when using surplus ammo?


SKS doesn't need any spring loaded firing pin. Just replace it with the original one and you will not have any problems. Just clean it every time. If you don't have the original firing pin - take it apart and clean inside the bolt make sure you do not lubricate the firing pin

Why shouldn't I lubricate the firing pin? Does it leave a residue behind?


And yes, I have already cleaned the firing pin channel. I couldn't find a small enough brush (tried a .177" bore brush), so I soaked some q-tips with solvent and ran them back and forth until it comes out clean.
 
Wow, thanks for the quick replies! I do not have the original firing pin. Would removing the spring work? Or would that be dangerous?




I'm curious, I thought the idea of a spring pin is to keep the pin from getting stuck in the "out" position. How does this change when using surplus ammo?




Why shouldn't I lubricate the firing pin? Does it leave a residue behind?


And yes, I have already cleaned the firing pin channel. I couldn't find a small enough brush (tried a .177" bore brush), so I soaked some q-tips with solvent and ran them back and forth until it comes out clean.
Use the original firing pin only. The problem with the aftermarket firing pin seems that the tip maybe be not the right shape for surplus ammo, primers on surplus are harder wich could stress the aftermarket pin. Put back the original pin and clean from time to time to be sure that move freely. Firing pin should be kept dry to avoid attracting dirt that could gum up the pin eventually and also, when a SKS is used in winter, lube on firing pin could froze wich is bad.
Joce
 
Wow, thanks for the quick replies! I do not have the original firing pin. Would removing the spring work? Or would that be dangerous?




I'm curious, I thought the idea of a spring pin is to keep the pin from getting stuck in the "out" position. How does this change when using surplus ammo?




Why shouldn't I lubricate the firing pin? Does it leave a residue behind?


And yes, I have already cleaned the firing pin channel. I couldn't find a small enough brush (tried a .177" bore brush), so I soaked some q-tips with solvent and ran them back and forth until it comes out clean.

I would recommend sourcing a russian or chinese firing pin. It should be noted that early models of the SKS were issued with a springed firing pin - the Murray's gunsmithing aftermarket pins are made of stainless steel so you can check that out as well.

I was having issues with it I know now because the military berdan primers are much harder that the modern equivalent. I agree with SVT 40 that the firing pin is not the correct shape and has too much of a taper. The spring combined with the harder primers are causing the problem. As noted above pipe cleaners with a bit of rubbing alcohol work great for cleaning the pin tunnel, no oil is necessary. You should be able to hear the firing pin rattle freely in the bolt when its reassembled.
 
Use the original firing pin only. The problem with the aftermarket firing pin seems that the tip maybe be not the right shape for surplus ammo, primers on surplus are harder wich could stress the aftermarket pin. Put back the original pin and clean from time to time to be sure that move freely. Firing pin should be kept dry to avoid attracting dirt that could gum up the pin eventually and also, when a SKS is used in winter, lube on firing pin could froze wich is bad.
Joce

Okay, I'll go find an original firing pin!

Thanks, everyone, for your contribution!
 
I would recommend sourcing a russian or chinese firing pin. It should be noted that early models of the SKS were issued with a springed firing pin - the Murray's gunsmithing aftermarket pins are made of stainless steel so you can check that out as well.

I was having issues with it I know now because the military berdan primers are much harder that the modern equivalent. I agree with SVT 40 that the firing pin is not the correct shape and has too much of a taper. The spring combined with the harder primers are causing the problem. As noted above pipe cleaners with a bit of rubbing alcohol work great for cleaning the pin tunnel, no oil is necessary. You should be able to hear the firing pin rattle freely in the bolt when its reassembled.

Thank you! I'll have to good look for that next time I'm at the hardware store.
 
Thank you! I'll have to good look for that next time I'm at the hardware store.

I buy ispropanol from the pharmacy - Although there are plenty of other things you can use to degrease with like varsol or mineral spirits, brake parts cleaner, etc. I like iso because it's not as harsh smelling, and you can always use it up for other things around the house, like getting new hand grips onto your handlebars of your bike etc.

Just be careful to have the furniture of your rifle no where near where your cleaning as most degreasers aren't friendly to either shellac or laquer finishes as found on some refurb SKS.

Please be sure to post back to this thread when you figure out the issue!
 
I buy ispropanol from the pharmacy - Although there are plenty of other things you can use to degrease with like varsol or mineral spirits, brake parts cleaner, etc. I like iso because it's not as harsh smelling, and you can always use it up for other things around the house, like getting new hand grips onto your handlebars of your bike etc.

Just be careful to have the furniture of your rifle no where near where your cleaning as most degreasers aren't friendly to either shellac or laquer finishes as found on some refurb SKS.

Please be sure to post back to this thread when you figure out the issue!

I sure will!

Btw, is it necessary to replace the bolt since it's slightly raised? It's $20 for the pin and $45 for the whole bolt assembly including everything.
 
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