Steven falling block in. 32 rim fire

quinnbrian said:
I thought of doing the 22 conversion, how does it work, did you have to make a new shell extractor arm?
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Converting these guns to .22 LR is the best way to go, Numrich sells the .22 extractors, but, they are not drop-in ready.
Depending on your machinist skills, you can make the extractor, but again, it is not an easy part to make.
The barrel to receiver fit is usually very sloppy in these old guns and I usually replace the barrel with an old .22 barrel, if the outside of the barrel is hexagon, or particularly nice, I drill out the barrel to .375" and make/insert a liner made from an old .22 barrel.
 
easiest and cheapest fix would be to silver solder a small piece onto the existing extractor and file it to fit. Use the high temp silver solder; it is extremely strong

cheers mooncoon
 
Hi Gents, new to Canadian Gun Nuts and am really enjoying the forum. I was recently taking some courses at the Trinidad gunsmithing school in Colorado and met CGN "Bermuda"... we shared a class and found some very similar interests in Stevens Favourites and Martini Cadet rifles. I had brought two "beater" Favorites one being 22LR and the other 32 Long. I fit a new octagon barrel on the .22 and am considering re-barreling the other in .17 HMR..... a necked down .22 WMR. I too am a bit cautious about the tilting block being handle this cartridge but I recently saw a modification to the hammer that supports the block w/ a well fit wedge that rests under the block when the hammer strikes the firing pin. I am also going to machine all new screws and ream the existing parts to tighten up and distribute the ignition forces.
I also can't say enough in the positive about the teaching staff at TSJC. Bermuda is there for the whole summer and I go back for 3 more weeks and not soon enough!

Best Regards, Old Rannochian
 
Welcome to CGN Old Rannochian. I do not want to sound negative on this, but, basically the idea is to place all the load on the small hammer screw, or use it as a safety in case the small pin in the link snaps under the excess pressure.
 
Some years ago, I saw a favourite where the owner had presumably used a broach to cut 2 shallow shoulders; one on each side of the breach and which supported it. Obviously you would need to make a new breach block to fit the increased width although you might also be able to silver solder a shoulder inside the breach cavity in the frame and modify the breach block to take advantage of these shoulders.

cheers mooncoon
 
There is a shoulder on both sides of the breach block already! The problem I see is trying to keep the block from turning down as the shell discharges. I've looked over and over again to try to find a place where you could "pin" the block closed. One thought as mooncoon said would be to solder or weld a pin, or something to hold the block closed. Enlarging the pivot screw will help, but it's the hammer ( forward pressure)the holds the breach block along with the two pivot screws. Blow-back would be higher on a larger caliber. So the way I see it, if you can hold the breach bolt, with out putting pressure on the two pivot screws,. That would be the only way that the rifle could be used over and over again, with out breaking or bending picks. Just my two cents... But would still like to build one in 9mm ,but the 9mm has almost 3x the muzzle energy of the old 32 rim fire. I'm 42 years old and would like to "see" my son graduate. Heavy on the SEE!!
 
quinnbrian said:
I'm 42 years old and would like to "see" my son graduate. Heavy on the SEE!!
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The long and short of it is that this is a dumb idea and it should not be attempted. The gun was not even designed for the modern high velocity .22LR.
The 1915 in my previous picture has new high strength screws, a new link, and a new take-down screw with a good fit to the barrel, the barrel is also a tight fit to the receiver. Like you said, you can't risk your eye sight on this
 
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