TURKISH MAUSERS
Things You Should Be Aware Of
A considerable number of Turkish Mauser rifles have recently been imported by Century Arms. These are showing up in Shotgun News and The Gun List and will no doubt be in gun shops and at gun shows very soon. Generally, they are very inexpensive and have created a lot of interest among folks that want to build sporter rifles on Mauser actions. There are some things to be aware of before you build a sporter from one of these rifles.
Turkey bought literally hundreds of thousands of Mausers, some of which were “standard” and others which had unique features and dimensions. Also, if a Turkish contract had not been totally filled when the Mauser Factory developed a new model, Mauser would finish out the order with the newer, or improved, model. This helped to keep the Turkish military up to date with the latest, most current Mausers. It also meant that the Turkish military soon had a lot of different models and variations of the Mauser.
Currently, one of the most common Turkish Mausers advertised is the Model 1938. In the late ’30s, the Turkish military authorities initiated a major program to standardize the many different models they had in service. This entailed taking Model 98GEW’s, Model 1893’s, Model 1903’s, Czech 98/22’s, plus many others, and rebarreling any 7.65mm guns to 8x57 and reworking all of them so they all looked basically like the Model 1903 rifle. The problem for gunsmiths is that not all of these many different rifles have receivers of the same dimensions (Refer to chart and illustration on page 2). Some have actions that are standard, large ring, 98 Mauser and threaded for large ring, 98 Mauser barrel shanks. Others have large ring, 98 Mauser actions but are threaded for small ring diameter, Mauser barrel shanks. Some have standard-length receivers and bolts while some have bolts that are .200” shorter than the standard, 98 Mauser bolt and have a front receiver ring that is .200” longer than a standard, 98 Mauser, front receiver ring.
Any gunsmith, amateur or professional, that is considering rebarreling any Mauser, especially a Turkish Mauser, should first pull the barrel from the receiver. Measure the threaded barrel shank for diameter and thread pitch to determine exactly what you have. You’ll need a Caliper, like the low priced Lyman, dial model, #539-832-212, or the Mitutoyo digital electronic model, #606-500-136 and a Thread Pitch Gauge for Whitworth threads, #592-769-000, to know exactly what you have. This is one case where you definitely do not want to assume that the Mauser you have is made to standard, 98 dimensions!
One of our test actions had a unique problem. While the action threads were 12 tpi, the barrel had been cut with 111⁄ 2 tpi and forced into the action. This damaged the action threads. If your action won’t accept a Brownells/Shilen, pre-threaded barrel, chase the threads with the appropriate tap: #080- 598-980 (Small Ring) or #080-598-111 (Large Ring). Chasing the threads on any action is a good idea.
The barrels we have measured were also larger in outside diameter than a “standard” military barrel. If you plan to use a sporter stock which is inletted for a military barrel, you might have to modify the barrel channel. Some Turkish Mausers are well made and suitable for the finest sporters. Those with dimension variations and workmanship problems can make excellent, low end, knockabout, “truck guns” and be affordable test beds for your gunsmithing projects.
Thanks to Jerry Kuhnhausen for allowing us to reproduce two drawings from his book, The Mauser Bolt Actions, A Shop Manual, #924-400-098. If you are working on Mausers, we highly recommend this excellent book as the definitive source of gunsmithing information on the Mausers. We hope this helps clarify a confusing situation.