.357 Revolver suggestions please

If it were me I'd lean heavily toward considering the Chiappa White Rhino.

It fires from the bottom cylinder, not the top, and all kinds of other innovations that have updated many of the flaws in a revolver design that has remained largely unchanged since the 1800s.

There's youtube of guys putting 6 rounds on target in under a second because its so easy to keep on target with followup shots...

 
I would have bought a Rhino, but they have an unfortunate number of issues in the first waves of production. I'll wait for reports on the second wave. If the issues get ironed out I'll be scooping one up for sure.

Also, pics:

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I must agree with the majority of nutz here, I find the quality of S&W out outshine the other revolvers, though I am not a fan of their automatics, (M&P). I have a 29-2 in 44 mag that is a real head turner, I have been after a S&W 686 lawman, if your after the cowboy style guns its out of my element!
 
JADER said:
Nice grips. May I ask where you got those?
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eBay all day, Graydog on these forums tipped me off to the seller but just search 'L-frame grips' and you'll get tons of options. The fit isn't perfect, but for $40 (with free shipping!) I can't imagine a better deal and I love the look. I bought another pair for my Model 17. They are fine grips.
 
So I put a deposit on a 4.25 .357 686 today! My only complaint is that hammer and trigger are not stainless but blued? Now I need to find wood grips with the medallions!
 
Leviathan024 said:
So I put a deposit on a 4.25 .357 686 today! My only complaint is that hammer and trigger are not stainless but blued? Now I need to find wood grips with the medallions!
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Rosewood grips handmade from Thailand, founded on Ebay, $40-45 ......, nice quality item.....
 
If you are wanting to keep a stainless revolver shiny, you'll drive yourself nuts. That carbon left on the cylinder face won't hurt anything.
Grips from the aftermarket might not fit perfect, as there are minor differences on grip frames.
The mechanical lock on the newer S&W has been the topic of huge importance to many traditionalists, primarily because of the look. There have been very few issues with the lock, but still a lot of hate that is undeserved. A lot of new customers are influenced by this BS, unfortunately. Don't like the lock? Don't use it! Real easy to solve that one.
 
ryan said:
If you are wanting to keep a stainless revolver shiny, you'll drive yourself nuts. That carbon left on the cylinder face won't hurt anything.
Grips from the aftermarket might not fit perfect, as there are minor differences on grip frames.
The mechanical lock on the newer S&W has been the topic of huge importance to many traditionalists, primarily because of the look. There have been very few issues with the lock, but still a lot of hate that is undeserved. A lot of new customers are influenced by this BS, unfortunately. Don't like the lock? Don't use it! Real easy to solve that one.
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There are a lot of people south of the border that remove the lock and put a plug in the hole. There are people who make the kit so you can do that.

Graydog
 
There was a used 686 6" stainless at Epps this week. I saw it when it first posted. $650. I thought "should I grab it?" I spent the night mulling over this decision, and you know what happened when I went back the next morning.

He who hesitates is lost. Whomever got it, good on you.

:-(

Cannon
 
hi,in my opinion I would go for a mod 19,66 or 686 they are wonderful guns as long as it's an older one screw the new one's with the internal lock!I have older smiths that are far better in form and function than the new pieces of crap smith put's out now.In my opinion
 
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