Trigger Recommendations for Norinco 1911
- Thread starter rxanderq
- Start date
I don't remember the brand name of the one I used in my first Norc 1911. It cost about $20 and I just dropped it in for an instant 35% reduction in trigger pull weight.
I doubt that new guide rod will do much for you.
By far the best way to reduce your trigger pull weight is to adjust the tension of the sear spring, not reduce the mainspring weight. Reducing the mainspring changes how the gun cycles, as it works in balance with the recoil spring in resisting the slide's movement under recoil.
That said, many if not most people will suggest you replace the Norinco springs in the gun with quality aftermarket springs (I use Wolff springs exclusively). Not that the stock springs are bad, it's just that they are easy to change and cheap insurance. Every single spring in the gun can be easily swapped out, but it's most important to do the recoil sping, mainspring, and sear spring.
Don't bother with the guide rod. There is a "great schism" in the 1911 community about whether a FLGR helps, and the fact that there is no definitive answer to the question should lead you to upgrading other things that have a definite benefit first.
Trigger length is a matter of personal preference, and depends more on subjective feel than it does on hand size. I greatly prefer a short reach trigger even though I have large hands. Others greatly prefer a medium or long reach trigger. Trigger length works together with mainspring housing shape (arched vs. flat) in terms of "feel", so you should think about the MSH while you're at it. Whatever you choose for a trigger, make sure it's quality spring steel in the bow, and lightweight alloy (or Ti) in the shoe. The stock trigger (in the 1911s that CanAm are selling) is not a terrible part, to be honest, and it's how John Moses Browning specified the part. It's that way for a reason. But a lighter trigger will help you get a light trigger pull weight without making the gun unsafe (hammer follow). Get a trigger with an oversized bow and/or shoe and hand fit it to remove slop and improve the feel. An overtravel limit is a nice feature. I use Ed Brown.
I just installed a Wilson Combat "Group Gripper" guide rod assembly in my Norc. I've noticed a significant improvement in positive barrel lug lockup. The kit requires not only the guide rod and spring, but also a new barrel link. It works by adding upward spring and cam leverage to the underside of the barrel pushing the barrel lugs up tight to the inside of the slide. The kit is NOT a full length guide rod, which I hate, and don't understand how one could conceivably help with any performance whatsoever...Google the "group gripper", this thing works.
Tagged for interest. I haven't met anyone face to face who thought a full length guide rod was worthwhile. Many even laughed when I asked about them. I'm definitely no expert, but I haven't had any problems without one so far.
Anecdotally, yes. I have swapped out every spring in the gun, smoothed and deburred everything, and added the guide rod mentioned. My groups have certainly shrank since trying to shoot the Norinco out of the box. Out of the box the trigger was so heavy, the strain of my forearm pulling the trigger would set the gun to quiver, truly horrible. So after working with the gun, I have a (almost) nice trigger, no hang ups, yellow dot sights that I can actually see (novel idea) and a barrel and slide assembly that locks up like a bank vault. No FTF,FTE issues at all. From not all rounds printing at 25 yards to somewhere around 4-6 inch groups at 25 yards (which is where I am with my Ruger SR1911 perhaps slightly better but not consistently by much).
I have always wondered if there is a benefit to a FLGR until I found out that Les Baer pistols with accuracy guarantee of 2 inches at 50yards or some crazy number like that use a regural size (original length) guide rod. Debate over as far as I am concerned...
Yea, I know, but when it's all apart and all the new stuff is siting in a pile you're kind of "there" already so...
The guide rod has somehow affected my slide stop though, with mag out and the slide locked back if I pull the slide back further the lock won't disengage the slide completely. Same goes for a loaded mag, I cannot rack the slide and have it release. I have to manually trigger the slide stop down
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