223 ammo


So I'm guessing you were talking about bi-metal jackets with copper plating over a mild steel jacket? Canam just said that the norinco stuff isn't bi-metal jackets. Some people had key holing with some norc ammo, but I believe that it was also in part due to shot out barrels. The explanation given to one member here that "the bullets were going too fast to engage the rifling" doesn't make sense in a physics sense.

Others have had issues with primers being punctured with norinco ammo. I've had no problems with it besides light primer strikes due to hard military primers. I've since replaced my reduced power hammer spring and have had no issues.
 
When guys ask about "bi-metal" they're referring to whether or not it's a plated or washed steel jacket over lead. Not if it's made from two different metals.
 
I guess Norinco ammos are good for plinking and I am plan to use it for that and for CQB training. The thought of getting a bad batch is holding me back to purchase it. If I have Norinco AR than I am willing to take risk for it.

Looking at the prices of factory ammos, they get very pricey for plinking and CQB training. However, if it is for accuracy on long distance shooting, maybe factory ammos are better than cheapo Norinco.
 
I guess Norinco ammos are good for plinking and I am plan to use it for that and for CQB training. The thought of getting a bad batch is holding me back to purchase it. If I have Norinco AR than I am willing to take risk for it.

Looking at the prices of factory ammos, they get very pricey for plinking and CQB training. However, if it is for accuracy on long distance shooting, maybe factory ammos are better than cheapo Norinco.

Look at Norinco ammo like a lottery ticket that has a 3 in 4 chance of paying off, for whoever is holding the ticket. Most likely it will work for you, if it doesn't, chances are you can sell it to buddy whose gun it will work in.
 
Emmm have you read the posts these past few days about the Norinco ammo? Looks pretty damn frigging bad to me! Holy canolli, I sure hope you're not going to shoot that stuff in a 2500$ rifle

Wonderful keep up the bad reviews.

That way I can buy it all.

I have ran 700 rounds threw my DD MK18 with no issues. No key holing. Only one hard primer so far.

I just ordered another 2 cases.

If your worried about barrel ware you better keep your rifles in the safe. New barrels are made every day.
 
As the saying goes, Garbage in garbage out.
You will never do yourself or your firearms disservice by using quality ammunition.
 
The explanation given to one member here that "the bullets were going too fast to engage the rifling" .

Oh god, thats the best I read in a long time.
What about getting a railgun?
Anyone remembers the quake 2 railgun? I was so damn elite with the railgun :D
insta hook insta kill railgun
[RiB]Bugkiller ^^:D

railgun_header.jpg
 
Yeah, don't buy the Norinco ammo.
It's bad, very very bad.
It will burn out your barrel, it will blow up your gun, your #### will fall off.

Yeah, that's it, that's the ticket.

Say no to Norinco . . .

Yeah . . . that's it, more for me . . . excellent.
 
Which 5.56 ammos that you use then that it is not hard on a barrel?

For cheap stuff I run American Eagle Tactical 55gr that comes in the ammo can for $400/1000 rounds. When I want accuracy I handload 60+gr projectiles. My .223's all have 1:7 and 1:8 twist barrels.

When in doubt pass the bullet (not the cartridge case but the bullet itself) over a magnet. If it sticks to the magnet and it isn't marked as steel core penetrator rounds then decide if you want to shoot it in your rifle knowing that it will cause excessive wear on your rifling.
You are free to run whatever you want but just do a little research and make an educated decision.
And please mention it in your EE ad when you go to sell your rifle because I won't buy a rifle if I know it's had bi-metal bullets down the barrel.
 
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For cheap stuff I run American Eagle Tactical 55gr that comes in the ammo can for $400/1000 rounds. When I want accuracy I handload 60+gr projectiles. My .223's all have 1:7 and 1:8 twist barrels.

When in doubt pass the bullet (not the cartridge case but the bullet itself) over a magnet. If it sticks to the magnet and it isn't marked as steel core penetrator rounds then decide if you want to shoot it in your rifle knowing that it will cause excessive wear on your rifling.
You are free to run whatever you want but just do a little research and make an educated decision.
And please mention it in your EE ad when you go to sell your rifle because I won't buy a rifle if I know it's had bi-metal bullets down the barrel.


Other than American Eagle do you know any other brands that is not using bi-metal bullet?
 
I have blown through over 5000+ rounds of Norinco bulk ammo (two different head stamps) through a DD AR, Windham AR, and my Tavor. I have had one, yes one, round fail to fire. The ammo is hot, cheap, and reliable. I also like AE bulk .223 in the ammo can, I have gone through a can with no issues.

The money your saving buying bulk surplus over 0.50-$1 a round premium commercial will equal or exceed the cost of a barrel or two, if you even get to that point.

Your blasting paper, get over it.
 
I have blown through over 5000+ rounds of Norinco bulk ammo (two different head stamps) through a DD AR, Windham AR, and my Tavor. I have had one, yes one, round fail to fire. The ammo is hot, cheap, and reliable. I also like AE bulk .223 in the ammo can, I have gone through a can with no issues.

The money your saving buying bulk surplus over 0.50-$1 a round premium commercial will equal or exceed the cost of a barrel or two, if you even get to that point.

Your blasting paper, get over it.

And steel gongs ;)

A new barrel every couple years is fine if you are on an AR where you can buy a new barrel for $250 but my AR uses a proprietary barrel so it's not that simple, and on my Swiss Arms or a Tavor or even an XCR your looking at quite a bit more to replace the barrel. Most people don't shoot enough to wear out a barrel in 10 years even if they used bi-metal jacketed bullets the whole time but some do. Find Steve Janes posts in the Swiss Arms rifles thread and see what cheap ammo (and hard abuse) does to a barrel in less than 10000 rounds on a rifle rated for 30000 rounds of military use.
I'm sure most Norinco ammo is fine but from what I've seen it's not for me. I was at the range with my buddy and he was shooting Norc 55gr bulk through his XCR and was getting 4-5 MOA groups (bipod and off the bench) and my Swiss and my AR were both getting around 2 MOA and sometimes a little better with the AE tactical 55gr. Couple cents more per round is worth it to me for the increased performance. An extra 100fps means nothing against paper out to 300yds, any longer than that or when I want even tighter groups I go to handloads.

Everyone has their own level of acceptable performance and barrel life vs price, each of us has to determine our own level and buy the ammo that fits our standard.
 
And steel gongs ;)

A new barrel every couple years is fine if you are on an AR where you can buy a new barrel for $250 but my AR uses a proprietary barrel so it's not that simple, and on my Swiss Arms or a Tavor or even an XCR your looking at quite a bit more to replace the barrel. Most people don't shoot enough to wear out a barrel in 10 years even if they used bi-metal jacketed bullets the whole time but some do. Find Steve Janes posts in the Swiss Arms rifles thread and see what cheap ammo (and hard abuse) does to a barrel in less than 10000 rounds on a rifle rated for 30000 rounds of military use.
I'm sure most Norinco ammo is fine but from what I've seen it's not for me. I was at the range with my buddy and he was shooting Norc 55gr bulk through his XCR and was getting 4-5 MOA groups (bipod and off the bench) and my Swiss and my AR were both getting around 2 MOA and sometimes a little better with the AE tactical 55gr. Couple cents more per round is worth it to me for the increased performance. An extra 100fps means nothing against paper out to 300yds, any longer than that or when I want even tighter groups I go to handloads.

Everyone has their own level of acceptable performance and barrel life vs price, each of us has to determine our own level and buy the ammo that fits our standard.

I agree with the bold part but to be fair, it's not a "couple cents more per round" it is closer to 20 cents more per round. Your example of a buddy shooting 4 MOA with norc ammo out of one rifle and you shooting 2 MOA with the AE stuff out of a different rifle isn't really conclusive of anything let alone "increased performance".
When I have compared the norc to the bulk AE out of the same rifle (1 in 7) I found no discernible difference at 100 yds so I can say that for me, there is no significant difference in accuracy. Of course ymmv.
 
And steel gongs ;)

A new barrel every couple years is fine if you are on an AR where you can buy a new barrel for $250 but my AR uses a proprietary barrel so it's not that simple, and on my Swiss Arms or a Tavor or even an XCR your looking at quite a bit more to replace the barrel. Most people don't shoot enough to wear out a barrel in 10 years even if they used bi-metal jacketed bullets the whole time but some do. Find Steve Janes posts in the Swiss Arms rifles thread and see what cheap ammo (and hard abuse) does to a barrel in less than 10000 rounds on a rifle rated for 30000 rounds of military use.
I'm sure most Norinco ammo is fine but from what I've seen it's not for me. I was at the range with my buddy and he was shooting Norc 55gr bulk through his XCR and was getting 4-5 MOA groups (bipod and off the bench) and my Swiss and my AR were both getting around 2 MOA and sometimes a little better with the AE tactical 55gr. Couple cents more per round is worth it to me for the increased performance. An extra 100fps means nothing against paper out to 300yds, any longer than that or when I want even tighter groups I go to handloads.

Everyone has their own level of acceptable performance and barrel life vs price, each of us has to determine our own level and buy the ammo that fits our standard.

The extra throat erosion on that barrel was caused by how hot the norc is loaded and a fast twist rate, NOT bi metal jackets, the Norinco ammo is great stuff for plinking, just be aware that it may wear out a faster twist barrel a bit quicker than normal partly because of how hot it's loaded. My guess is that any hot loaded mil spec 5.56 would have done the same thing to the throat of that barrel. Once the throat was worn and the keyholing started, it occured on account of the worn throat, NOT the norc ammo.
 
If anyone cares, my batch of CJ-95 is not responsive to a magnet at all, and I was using a strong N-dym magnet.

Question you have to ask yourself, is did you pay top dollar for a posh expensive match grade barrel that is more your baby then a tool ?
If so, then don't run Norinco if you're worried. I will not shoot it thru' my accurate upper.

I guess the first mistake you've made is buying a rifle with too nice a barrel that you are afraid to shoot.
That' why, despite the fact that my main rifle is cost about $3700 to build, and has top shelf everything, I bolted a cheap, abundant, and disposable S&J 11.5" on it and called it a day. Now I can't shoot the cheapest crap I can find without worry and afford more rounds down range.

Now that I think about it, maybe that's a key point that can make the AR superior to other rifles like the Tavor or XCR. Operational costs.
Wear out the barrel? Just mail order another willy nilly from any number of vendors, bolt it up and away you go.
 
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