Red loctite removal
- Thread starter adrian118
- Start date
DeadlyKamikazy
CGN Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
stormtrooper is right just use heat
If heat is not an option soak the red Loctite in WD 40 or some other penetrating oil it will break it down.
When heating a screw for example only heat the screw not the gun.
Yes this will spread out but concentrate the heat on the screw.
When heating a screw for example only heat the screw not the gun.
Yes this will spread out but concentrate the heat on the screw.
I think you would probably be better to ask Loctite than CGN. Here is the answer right from Loctite, check this out: http://videos-loctite.henkelna.com/
Stormtrooper is very right. Heat guns will go about 200 to 250 degrees and won't damage heat treatments. He uses a torch in the video, which might be okay for automotive use. If you can heat just the fastener with a torch you should be a brain surgeon.
For every weapon system I've worked on the engineers agree that a heat gun would be the best bet.
Stormtrooper is very right. Heat guns will go about 200 to 250 degrees and won't damage heat treatments. He uses a torch in the video, which might be okay for automotive use. If you can heat just the fastener with a torch you should be a brain surgeon.
For every weapon system I've worked on the engineers agree that a heat gun would be the best bet.
- Location
- West Quebec
Never thought of the WD 40.. good one
That's because red loctite is very similar to cyanoacrylate, and is designed to be resistant to oils. Nail polish remover would work better if it could access all of it. Look at the MSDS for red loctite.
Penetrating oils only work if there is surface rust or some other decomposition present.
Heat works by design.
Penetrating oils only work if there is surface rust or some other decomposition present.
Heat works by design.
- Location
- West Quebec
That makes a lot of sense..
Maybe it's a matter of degree, when I discussed the removal of screws with Loctite (Blue) with a gunsmith he suggested only doing a light verticle strip on the threads and let it set up a bit then screw in. Seems to be the trick for smaller parts where heat could be a problem.
Guess you just can't get carried away with this stuff.
That may because the product was not applied correctly in the first place - for example on top of a surface that was rusted or not cleaned of residue like the kind WD-40 leaves.
WD 40 is mostly, by volume, Stoddard Solvent - or mineral spirits.
From Loctite http://www.loctite.com.au/3286_AUS_HTML.htm:
"Q:What solvents can I use to remove liquid Loctite materials?
A: Most organic solvents are effective in removing anaerobic and cyanoacrylate adhesives. Chlorinated solvents are most commonly used. Dry MEK and acetone are used on applications using instant adhesives.
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."
Acetone, commonly found in nail polish remover, is a widely available solvent capable of softening cured cyanoacrylate. Other solvents include nitromethane, dimethyl sulfoxide, and methylene chloride. gamma-Butyrolactone may also be used to remove cured cyanoacrylate.
So a chlorinated brake cleaner would work in theory, but it needs to access ALL of the bonding material to work on it. Won't be possible in larger bolts or in applications where the Loctite has bonded and cured to correctly cleaned surfaces.
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You can insert your diver/Allen key and heat it rather than the screw with a pencil torch. The beauty of going at it this way is that because you can keep constant pressure on the screw, it will unscrew at the minimum temp required....no guessing or risk of overheating, and the heat is kept away from the gun itself.
There is no requirement to use loctite on any application on barrels in any manual I am familiar with for that reason. That is partly why MILSPEC barrels have pinned on gas blocks.
I will look for some data, but I expect you would have to exceed the design capabilities of your barrel to get red loctite to melt - not that it would be impossible - just bad for the barrel.
I think it would be better to dimple the barrel and use correct size screws for the application than to rely on red loctite.
I will look for some data, but I expect you would have to exceed the design capabilities of your barrel to get red loctite to melt - not that it would be impossible - just bad for the barrel.
I think it would be better to dimple the barrel and use correct size screws for the application than to rely on red loctite.
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Well sure....it'll heat the screw....but when to stop heating? The nice part about my method is that you know *exactly* when you've applied the minimum amount of required heat (as the screw starts to turn)
It's seems like a good idea. I'll try this one.
