NEA AR Railed Forends are CRAP!

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Mark1911

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I put one on my AR and right away could see how poorly it lined up with the reciever. Their means for attaching to the rifle is the cheapest, stupidest thing in the world. But i'm stuck with it...for now. So i put a set of MAGPUL MBUIS on there and that really highlighted how out of wack it is...my rear sight is cranked almost totally to the right...lol! Stay away from these things guys!
 
A little over a year ago means it would be of the original design that clamps on the sides.

I had mine replaced back when they first launched, and the replacement they sent me fit up 100%. Nice and square, tight, and consistent with the design. I like it. Yeah, the tabs on the side have been a sore point for many, but, I don't get worked up over it. It works really well. I was actually just looking at it again the other night, and gave the rail a good tug, and, it's solid and square. I can't ask for more than that.

It's my understanding there were only a handful of rails that weren't square, so, I'm not sure what your problem is specifically. Maybe a picture would help all of us? Otherwise, we've all been here before when it comes to the NEA threads.
 
A non centered rear sight doesn't mean the rail is crap. The position of the rear sight makes no difference so long as it can be zeroed. The adjustment range is there for a reason. I have little doubt the rail doesn't index properly and/or is of a poor design.

Tdc
 
A non centered rear sight doesn't mean the rail is crap. The position of the rear sight makes no difference so long as it can be zeroed. The adjustment range is there for a reason. I have little doubt the rail doesn't index properly and/or is of a poor design.

Tdc

Agreed. However, the adjustment range should also include allowance to account for windage to target. If you use up all of your windage to get a no-wind zero you are left with only kentucky windage. Few sights are zeroed on target at mechanical zero but it should be close-ish.
 
to TDC...have you ever bought a gun, that had factory sights in which to zero the gun you had to move the rear sight almost to the limits of its travel...probably not because the front and rear sight are already some what aligned...but if your rail doesn't mount to your reciever very well because its a crappy design, its not aligned with your upper reciever very well and your front sight is way off to one side...hence...crap!
 
Agreed. However, the adjustment range should also include allowance to account for windage to target. If you use up all of your windage to get a no-wind zero you are left with only kentucky windage. Few sights are zeroed on target at mechanical zero but it should be close-ish.

Clicking windage on iron sights is both dumb and innefective. At ranges where wind plays a serioud role your irons are far too large in relation to the target to be effective. Buis are to be zeroed and shot, not adjusted for the conditions.

Tdc
 
to TDC...have you ever bought a gun, that had factory sights in which to zero the gun you had to move the rear sight almost to the limits of its travel...probably not because the front and rear sight are already some what aligned...but if your rail doesn't mount to your reciever very well because its a crappy design, its not aligned with your upper reciever very well and your front sight is way off to one side...hence...crap!

As I said, the adjustment range is there for a reason. Once zeroed the rest doesn't matter. In addition you are correct, in that a poor mounting rail certainly doesn't help with the zeroing of irons.

Tdc
 
Hmmm, so, I'm assuming it's pulled over to one side, and clearly visible in relation to the barrel?

Did you buy it used, and maybe get one of the defective ones that were supposed to be destroyed? I still have my original rail that was replaced under warranty, with the caveat being that it was to be destroyed if I didn't send it back. I didn't destroy it, but, know better than to release it back into the wild, so that some other unsuspecting doesn't get screwed over.

If it's new, I'd get it replaced. All the NEA rails I've seen that are in spec have mounted up just fine, and are square. You either got a bad one legitimately, underhandedly, or there's just something funny about how it interfaces with your barrel nut. When you rotate the rail into place, was there a lot of resistance, or none at all, with a bit of wobble before you tightened it down?

My original reail simply twisted loosely into place, and was wobbly, requiring me to tighten it down. As I tightened it began to pull to one side.

When I got my replacement, the rail was quite snug being indexed into place, and tightening the screws didn't change it's alignment.

I also had the barrel nut on/off this rifle, and have no doubt that even the slightest barrel nut alignment would have an impact on how the rail connects, as, the barrel nut moves towards the receiver as it's tightened, ergo affecting the tolerances of the internal channel in the rail that is designed to square up to the teeth on the nut.

That's about as much informatoin as I can provide on the NEA rail/barrel nut interface. I'd say it's obvious you got a bad one. The quesion is, do you have an recourse with where you got it from, or is there a different underlying issue?

I remember how much I fought with my original rail before I found out it was a warranty issue and was able to get it replaced. I think I was one of the last ones to find out, but was told there were only about 12 or so that were like this. I'm not sure I believe there were only 12, and the question I have is, did you get this new or used?
 
I have a LMT gun and a Troy rail that is way out of whack. Crap eh?

I dont' know. That depends. Troy is using/licensed the barrel nut channel/indexing design that NEA came up with, as they were pretty tight for a while back there....

At least, thats my understanding. I could be wrong.

It's clearly the LMT portion that's garbage... ;)
 
I dont' know. That depends. Troy is using/licensed the barrel nut channel/indexing design that NEA came up with, as they were pretty tight for a while back there....

At least, thats my understanding. I could be wrong.

It's clearly the LMT portion that's garbage... ;)



I Think troy has been doing there rails like that before nea was a company....would like some prof of your claim
 
I Think troy has been doing there rails like that before nea was a company....would like some prof of your claim

Well, then maybe it's the other way around.

I was told by Jeff that NEA and Troy were working very closely together.

Also, I don't have to prove anything, as, I clearly stated, and I mean, it doesn't getter any clearer than the GD words I typed that you quoted, that I could be wrong.

You could have simply left it at "I believe it's the other way around", and being as your post count is substantially larger, according to CGN rules, that would clearly indicate that your words carry more weight than mine.
 
What it does do is prove the point however that while the OP's rail in question is clearly not made very well, it's not necessarily the attachment method that's flawed, and, if that's the case, then he hopefully can get it replaced. Unless he bought it off the EE, in which case sucks to be him.
 
The handguard could be perfectly in line with the barrel, but if your handguard is turned then sight will not line up. Is the handguard rail in line with the upper rail?? If not then that's your problem.
 
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