Rust Bluing solution?

flying pig

flying pig

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I'm going to try to get set up to try out rust bluing for the first time here shortly. I'm planning on using a pre made solution until after I try it at least and if I'm happy with the results I may just stick to it that way. The reading I've found on here seems like only Radocy and the Laurel Mtn stuff is available in Canada so I'm wondering which I should go with? Wondering if anyone has tried both and which they prefered and why?

Thanks
 
If you can find any , Pilkington Classic works very well. Brownells won't ship to Canada. I have an old formula I use with great success. PM me and I'll give you the recipe.
 
flying pig said:
I'm going to try to get set up to try out rust bluing for the first time here shortly. I'm planning on using a pre made solution until after I try it at least and if I'm happy with the results I may just stick to it that way. The reading I've found on here seems like only Radocy and the Laurel Mtn stuff is available in Canada so I'm wondering which I should go with? Wondering if anyone has tried both and which they prefered and why?

Thanks
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I have used the Laurel Mtn solution extensively. It does a very nice job and comes with a good set of instructons. Brownells will ship it to Canada.
 
fastex said:
If you can find any , Pilkington Classic works very well. Brownells won't ship to Canada. I have an old formula I use with great success. PM me and I'll give you the recipe.
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There is also a great book called Firearm Blueing and Browning, by R.H. Angier (1936). However it's been reprinted recently and is about $15 on Amazon. It's got hundreds of different bluing and rust bluing formulas with full descriptions and tips for bluing. One of the most comprehensive books on the subject. A basic understanding or interest in chemistry is helpful, the book is fairly technical, and they do use the old names for many of the chemicals.

Well worthwhile if you want to do any rust bluing, especially if you are making your own solutions. I've only read parts of it. Note that it's written in a 1930's style, and sometimes needs interpretation.... It's more like a cookbook, you need to know a bit about the process and how to do things, it doesn't lead you through every little step.

Here's a preview of much of the book from Amazon (click on the book on the Amazon page)

www.amazon.com/Firearm-Blueing-Browning-R-H-Angier/dp/B004AWUN38

http://www.amazon.com/Firearm-Blueing-Browning-Revised-Stackpole/dp/0811703266/ref=pd_sim_b_1
 
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im trying to get away from buying formulas from the store, ive used birchwood casey cold blue with pretty good results! im pretty handy and can build just about anything, id like to get into this more of a hobby and possibly do it for some other people, there is nobody local here that does much gun work, the one guy i talk to cant do much anymore cause of his eye sight, he said he might have some books on stock repair, bluing, all sorts of stuff, ive got some pretty strange concepts for this rifle and one more, ive got a no1mk2 that i finished using cold blu, so my parker hale i want to do traditional, im just being picky,
 
Winchester30-30 said:
im trying to get away from buying formulas from the store, ive used birchwood casey cold blue with pretty good results! im pretty handy and can build just about anything, id like to get into this more of a hobby and possibly do it for some other people, there is nobody local here that does much gun work, the one guy i talk to cant do much anymore cause of his eye sight, he said he might have some books on stock repair, bluing, all sorts of stuff, ive got some pretty strange concepts for this rifle and one more, ive got a no1mk2 that i finished using cold blu, so my parker hale i want to do traditional, im just being picky,
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One common chemical in rust bluing is concentrated nitric acid. The only place to get it is from a chemical supply house.

However if you do make up a batch of interesting rust bluing solution, you can always sell the excess.
 
guy i talked to, said something about hydrochloric acid? im looking to get that book you suggested! trying to be traditional as possible!,

2 parts hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), available from most building supplies.
2 parts ferric chloride (used to etch circuit boards) available from electronic hobby stores or a buddy who plays with electronics.
8 parts methyl hydrate (alcohol), available from most building supply (DIY) stores. The alcohol helps with minor degreasing (finger prints) and wetting the steel.
8 parts distilled water (drug store).

This is the formula i found

May be a stupid question, but whats the difference between bluing and browning?
 
Winchester30-30 said:
guy i talked to, said something about hydrochloric acid? im looking to get that book you suggested! trying to be traditional as possible!,

2 parts hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), available from most building supplies.
2 parts ferric chloride (used to etch circuit boards) available from electronic hobby stores or a buddy who plays with electronics.
8 parts methyl hydrate (alcohol), available from most building supply (DIY) stores. The alcohol helps with minor degreasing (finger prints) and wetting the steel.
8 parts distilled water (drug store).

This is the formula i found

May be a stupid question, but whats the difference between bluing and browning?
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Not a stupid question. With browning, the rusted metal is carded then solution reapplied. With bluing(blacking), the rusted metal is boiled the solution reapplied. Boiling converts red rust to black rust.
 
"...try out rust bluing..." Have a room with absolutely no items made of ferrous metals you care about in it?
"...I've used Birchwood-Casey cold blue..." Ain't even close to being the same thing. Hot bluing requires precision temperature controls and a slew of nasty chemicals. There's a recipe in Machinery's Handbook. It's worth well over $100, last time I looked.
"...whats the difference between..." The chemicals used. Certainly not a stupid question. Unless you don't ask it.
 
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