Certainly not the range he's using
If You can answer to your own question with absolute certainty, You sure don't need any profit from EE.
1911 acting like a single action. Have to #### the hammer to fire. Help?
- Thread starter Dweano
- Start date
Certainly not the range he's using
If You can answer to your own question with absolute certainty, You sure don't need any profit from EE.
Waynetheman
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver.
Thing is he filed the lip off the hammer, not the sear. And seems as though he didn't muck around with the disconnect either.
No I only touched the hammer, there must've been a little tiny lip on the hammer because when I put everything in it wouldn't fire, two Light passes with a file and it fired and worked like a charm. I guess I just should have polished it a bit eh?
if you can help it, should get mated sear and hammer and disconnector, for example all of same brand - eliminates most fitting work.
also never ever file the hammer or sear, sear jig needs to be used when stoning it (by a competent gunsmith) lest you end up with this situation or one where your weapon goes full auto unexpectedly.
also never ever file the hammer or sear, sear jig needs to be used when stoning it (by a competent gunsmith) lest you end up with this situation or one where your weapon goes full auto unexpectedly.
Well I am not entirely stupid. I did two light passes with hardly any pressure. Then when I fired it I put one round in the mag. Fired, repeat, fired, repeat. Moved up to two rounds. Tried that until I was confident it was going to be ok.
Fire control is not something you want to mess with if you don't really know what you're doing. The money spent on having a decent gunsmith set up your trigger for you is an investment in your long-term health. Not blowing a golf ball sized hole out the top of your head when an ill-fitted trigger cooks off a mag full auto with the last one in your face is worth every penny. And yes, this has happened.
Halger280HVMag
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- B.C. XMU Local .454
Dweano
For the sake of your health and longevity.
Please stop messing with the internal workings of any firearms.
No, not good! Your inept work created a dangerous condition. You made a machine-gun out of a 1911 pistol!
Do enough dumb things, and you might well wake up dead sooner than you'd like.
Obviously things were not "OK".
It's not so much that you have to become a gunsmith in order to work on your guns.
It's more about knowing when something can be done safely by the home gun mechanic.
And when the job should go to the gunsmith, with the knowledge and proper tools to back him.
Please destroy the damaged parts, to ensure that they do not accidentally wind up in another pistol.
Come out shooting some time.
All the best Eh!
For the sake of your health and longevity.
Please stop messing with the internal workings of any firearms.
No, not good! Your inept work created a dangerous condition. You made a machine-gun out of a 1911 pistol!
Do enough dumb things, and you might well wake up dead sooner than you'd like.
Obviously things were not "OK".
It's not so much that you have to become a gunsmith in order to work on your guns.
It's more about knowing when something can be done safely by the home gun mechanic.
And when the job should go to the gunsmith, with the knowledge and proper tools to back him.
Please destroy the damaged parts, to ensure that they do not accidentally wind up in another pistol.
Come out shooting some time.
All the best Eh!
Waynetheman
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver.
Yah. What likely happened was what someone else said about heat treated area coming off. Dunno. Hope you get your gun working.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
My first thought on reading was that the original problem was with the fitting of the safety and not the hammer/sear relationship. The suggestion to put in one of the matched hammer/sear sets is a good one, but they will still require fitting. Get a smith to do it for you, maybe if you pay extra, he will consent to teach you as he does your pistol....it's a long shot, but a decent way to learn. Good on you for having the initiative to try, but maybe not on fire control parts. I won't harp, you've had enough of that already Next time, will the trigger work properly without the saftey in place? If so, you need to alter the saftey which is also cheaper to replace when you screw up and easier to fit to boot. Also, don't use a file unless you've done a LOT of filing....your much farther ahead to use a coarse stone, or a fine one, and take your time. Marker or black the part so you can see your taking off material evenly....and never stone trigger/sear bits without a jig, and a very very good mechanical understanding of what your changing. a thou or two can make a big difference, adn changing the angles can do all sorts of funky things!
Next time, will the trigger work properly without the saftey in place? If so, you need to alter the saftey which is also cheaper to replace when you screw up and easier to fit to boot. Also, don't use a file unless you've done a LOT of filing....your much farther ahead to use a coarse stone, or a fine one, and take your time. Marker or black the part so you can see your taking off material evenly....and never stone trigger/sear bits without a jig, and a very very good mechanical understanding of what your changing. a thou or two can make a big difference, adn changing the angles can do all sorts of funky things!
we know it, don't we Rob, that person is very fortunate that he is still with us...
your really made the best decision for yourself...
