Is oil used when reloading?

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Is oil used when reloading ammunition? If so, at what point in the process is it introduced?
 
Lubricant is necessary when resizing brass, but oil is not the best choice, and I've never seen anything but grease in the grease grooves of cast bullets that weren't coated with a dry lubricant. If oil has any place its to lubricate the articulating joints of the press where grease cannot be easily applied. It is best to keep any oil away from primers as it will deactivate them in short order. If you damage a primer that you don't wish to reuse, then putting a drop of thin oil on the anvil will render it pretty much inert inert after a short period of time.

Imperial Sizing Wax is an excellent product for case lubrication prior to resizing, and Imperial Dry Neck lube is excellent for the inside of case mouths. It allows the expander ball to pass easily, but doesn't cause particles of powder to stick to it.
 
Lubricant is necessary when resizing brass, but oil is not the best choice, and I've never seen anything but grease in the grease grooves of cast bullets that weren't coated with a dry lubricant. If oil has any place its to lubricate the articulating joints of the press where grease cannot be easily applied. It is best to keep any oil away from primers as it will deactivate them in short order. If you damage a primer that you don't wish to reuse, then putting a drop of thin oil on the anvil will render it pretty much inert inert after a short period of time.

Imperial Sizing Wax is an excellent product for case lubrication prior to resizing, and Imperial Dry Neck lube is excellent for the inside of case mouths. It allows the expander ball to pass easily, but doesn't cause particles of powder to stick to it.

Thanks for tips. I have a Lee turret press that I want to use for rifle rounds and a Lee progressive press that I have already set up for 9mm pistol. I've cleaned a bunch of 9mm casings in a tumbler. Should I get some sizing wax before I run them? I only plan to make 25 rounds at the minimum load. I've never done this before and I want to keep all my fingers.
 
Some oil on the press itself makes life enjoyable.

I generally use the Lee sizing lube, but I will admit that I have sprayed some RIG oil on a paper towel and rolled some cases on that. It worked pretty much the same. I would imagine that as long as it's not getting into the case itself, or onto the primers, then just about any type of lube would work.
 
Generally speaking, keep petroleum products away from cartridges and reloading components. Petroleum based oils can break down powder and ruin primers. The lubricants that are used for brass are usually made from water/vegetable products or wax based.

IF your 9mm reloading die set includes a carbide resizing die then you don't need to lube your cases at all.

If you don't have one already, get yourself a Lyman Reloading manual - 49th Edition and read the section on brass and resizing.
 
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Thanks for tips. I have a Lee turret press that I want to use for rifle rounds and a Lee progressive press that I have already set up for 9mm pistol. I've cleaned a bunch of 9mm casings in a tumbler. Should I get some sizing wax before I run them? I only plan to make 25 rounds at the minimum load. I've never done this before and I want to keep all my fingers.

Usually pistol die sets have carbide resizing dies, making lubricant unnecessary. Oh I see jethunter beat me to it.
 
I sometimes use engile oil to resize rifle cartridges.
Coat both hands with oil (nitrile gloves), and then just move around all the rounds. Do that a few times in a plastic pail or something. Then all cases are lightly coated with oil, then resize.
Only downside is that you have to remove the oil afterwards, I use SS wet tumbling with soap, and then corncob to shine.
It's quite a pain in the ass if you ask me, but It seems like the easiest and fastest option to me.
Every time I try those commercial lubes, I get a few stuck cases.
 
IF your 9mm reloading die set includes a carbide resizing die then you don't need to lube your cases at all.
You don't need to, but spraying them with some lube will make the reloading effort on the press 5x easier and smoother.
I still do it.
 
A thick (90weight) oil is applied to a felt or cotton cloth pad and cases are then rolled over it to LIGHTLY coat them before full length resizeing.

A type of oil known as ALOX which drys to a waxy solid is used as a lubricant to some cast bullets, some home made bullet lubricants are also made from such things as bees wax , non detergent oil, and transmission fluid (red hydraulic oil).

A neat trick to remember when sizing cases is to take a pill bottle or the like and add a tablespoon of graphite and a tablespoon of small (#7 1/2 or so) shot to the bottle replace the lid and shake to mix. Then dip the case neck first into the bottle before resizing and then gently tap out the graphite and shot. This lubes the case inside and out but leaves only a thin dry residue of graphite, something gunpowder has in it any how so will not have ill effects on the powder.

DO NOT substitue graphite with molybednium disulphide (moly)
It can plate the case and cause excess pressure on the bolt face as the brass will get no traction on the chamber as it swells up when fired.
 
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I think the reason the reloading companies recommend lanolin or veg based lube is because of pressure. Extreme pressure, like in your sizing die, can create detonation of the oil. The manufactures know what they are publishing. Spend the few bucks and buy case lube!
 
Just wondering, but wouldn't the graphite have the same effect as the Moly ? Slippery is Slippery even after you wipe the graphite off with a rag when your done. There might be a bit of graphite left.
A neat trick to remember when sizing cases is to take a pill bottle or the like and add a tablespoon of graphite and a tablespoon of small (#7 1/2 or so) shot to the bottle replace the lid and shake to mix. Then dip the case neck first into the bottle before resizing and then gently tap out the graphite and shot. This lubes the case inside and out but leaves only a thin dry residue of graphite, something gunpowder has in it any how so will not have ill effects on the powder.

DO NOT substitue graphite with molybednium disulphide (moly)
It can plate the case and cause excess pressure on the bolt face as the brass will get no traction on the chamber as it swells up when fired.
 
"...The only "oils" used are..." None. Lubes, but not oil.
"...Usually pistol die sets have carbide resizing dies..." But only if you buy the carbide set. Not all die sets have a carbide sizer die, for some daft reason. The key word for lubing cases is 'lightly'. Too much will cause dents. Mind you, those dents aren't a big deal.
 
I think the reason the reloading companies recommend lanolin or veg based lube is because of pressure. Extreme pressure, like in your sizing die, can create detonation of the oil. The manufactures know what they are publishing. Spend the few bucks and buy case lube!

Sizing cases requires a lubricant that will have lubricity at high pressures. It has nothing to do with autoignition.
 
The only thing that needs oiled is the press, and the "resizing lubes" must be removed from the cases before firing.

Lyman reloading manual
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Sierra reloading manual
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Springfield Armory

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