Norc 1911 heavy trigger pull

marky33

marky33

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Hey guys. I bought one of those Can Am deal 1911's and I was hoping to make the best of it. I don't do any gunsmithing but I was hoping to poke around a bit to see what I could learn (and not replace parts that wouldn't help the problem). What I have it a really heavy trigger pull (which I am sure is the issue with most of these) and I was wondering what the best way to tone it down a bit. Should I got to a lighter trigger and hammer? Change out the sear? I was hoping not to have to just start replacing parts to see which one worked when I have the great knowledge and expertise of you guys :) Also where would you recommend buying the parts.

Cheers,

Mark
 
A basic trigger job any gunsmith that works on 1911s can do without buying a bunch of stuff. A sear jig, some stones and 600 grit emery is all it takes to smooth up in the hands of someone that knows what they are doing. There is no end to it if you want to start spending a bunch of money on it.
 
marky33 said:
Hey guys. I bought one of those Can Am deal 1911's and I was hoping to make the best of it. I don't do any gunsmithing but I was hoping to poke around a bit to see what I could learn (and not replace parts that wouldn't help the problem). What I have it a really heavy trigger pull (which I am sure is the issue with most of these) and I was wondering what the best way to tone it down a bit. Should I got to a lighter trigger and hammer? Change out the sear? I was hoping not to have to just start replacing parts to see which one worked when I have the great knowledge and expertise of you guys :) Also where would you recommend buying the parts.

Cheers,

Mark
Click to expand...
Mark, cut down 2-3 coils on the hammer spring, and your good to go buddy!!!
 
Trigger pull weight is mainly adjusted by bending the three finger spring and repeatedly testing. The mainspring (hammer spring) should not be trimmed unless low powered (target) loads are to be continuously used. Adjusting triggers on 1911s is not for the ham-handed or beginners, as it is entirely too easy to create an unsafe situation.

Dr Jim
 
So filing the sear or bending the 3 finger spring but not cutting coils off of the hammer spring. Got it. Any advice on the Marstar parts boys. It definitely sounds like it is out of my scope of work so I will be taking it to a gun smith but I'd like to take a few bits and pieces to get him to throw on while he is at it so I don't have to pay his mark up for bringing the components in.
 
Cgn99 said:
Mark, cut down 2-3 coils on the hammer spring, and your good to go buddy!!!
Click to expand...

This is actually unnecessary. You can buy full length hammer springs with weights as low as 17 pounds down from the factory weight of 23 pounds. Typically you will get reliable ignition with a 19 pound MS and I found that 18 pounds will consistently ignite Winchester large primers.
 
All new firearms require a trigger job. Do one on any 1911 style pistol isn't difficult or require any special tools. Polish the mating trigger and sear parts(Stones only. No files.) and clip about quarter turn off the mainspring.
"...a lightweight trigger and hammer..." Those would require fitting by a smithy anyway.
"...generally does not have drop in parts..." Some of 'em are, but you're still better to use fitted parts. Drop in parts never work as well.
 
I was surprised at how much can be accomplished by tweaking the 3 finger spring without doing anything else. Check the rest and tackle some of the obvious stuff if you trust your abilities. But even without doing the two angle stoning trick on the sear you can gain a lot with just doing the finger spring tweaking described in this link;

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull
 
762shooter said:
I tried a drop in replacement in my Norc Sport Model and it dropped the trigger pull weight from 8 lbs to 5 lbs, however the trigger reset point moved forward a lot which I don't like. Is there an adjustment I can make to correct this?
Click to expand...

Read that article link I posted just above you.

Swapping the spring should not affect the reset point unless the finger that pushes against the sear isn't positioned correctly. The spring only provides tension forces. It doesn't actually alter any of the fits of the parts.
 
As said, start with the 3 fingered spring. Looking at it from the back of the pistol, the left finger applies spring tension to the sear, and the right finger the grip safety. Its the middle finger that you can bend a little at a time to lighten the trigger pull. NEVER go lower than 3.5lbs on a 1911 trigger.

The easiest way to work on that 3 finger spring is to wiggle the thumb safety out with the hammer on full ####, lift the grip safety off, drift the pin for the mainspring housing, and slide the mainspring housing off. It will probably take multiple tries (disassemble, adjust, reassemble) until you get it where you are happy but its worth the effort. When you think you are done, be very sure to TEST the grip safety and the thumb safety. Hammer should not fall if either or both are engaged. Also check the disconnect - let the hammer fall, then continuing to hold the trigger, rack the slide. The hammer should #### and hold and not fire until you release the trigger and squeeze again.

Polishing the engagement surfaces between the trigger and sear will smooth out any grittiness, but the pull is mostly determined by the 3 fingered spring. I do not like to lighten the hammer spring. Done properly, you shouldn't have to and will have more reliable ignition of ammunition.
 
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