HELP - cleaning a brand new CZ 455 should NOT be a full-body exercise

S

scott_karana

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Kelowna, BC
Hey guys!

Got my brand new CZ 455 FS tonight. I am a total newbie and it's my first gun, so when I hit problems cleaning it, I didn't know what to expect.

Ran a clean patch through the bore, and it was a little dark, so I figured I'd give it a clean before I use it tomorrow.
Sprayed down a patch with M-Pro 7 cleaning fluid, and tried to run it: felt a lot tighter, but it still ran. Definitely a dirty bore...
Ran a second patch: it seized up once into the chamber. WTF? After much effort, spent more effort pulling the rod back out.

Sprayed down the bore (which I should have done in the first place?...) and waited five minutes, while I let some patches soak in the cleaner.
Same issue, time and time again. Even with half-size patches... if they would go at all, I would have to push with all my might, and sweat up a storm. Most of the time, it felt like I would need to slam my entire body weight on the rod to get it through, so needless to say, I NEVER put that much effort in, and would just (with difficulty) draw the jag and patch back out.
They would seize so badly that sometimes, the patch would push OVER the jag. All of them were totally shredded.

Running the empty jag and rod down the barrel was easy, though.
I started running clean patches, and those were still really tight, but at least they would run most of the time.
Eventually they came out clean.

Thankfully, the barrel and lands still appear to be in fantastic shape, but I put a small ding in the stock because of my gymnastics, despite my best efforts to be careful. :(

What the hell am I doing wrong? Should I only be running clean patches, not soaked ones? I don't have a brush, should I have used that before trying any patches?

No debates about cleaning rimfires, please: it's just a first-time clean, and I still need to be able to clean them even if I only clean once every ten years ;)

Equipment: Tipton carbon .22 cal rod, a Tipton .22 cal jag, some small (".17 and .22 size") cotton patches, and a Dewey bore guide from Yodave.
The M-pro 7 cleaning fluid seemed sort of... gooey or gel-y after I sprayed it... left lots of cloudy white residue on both the gun and my clothes.

I know some people recommend .17 cal jags and rods, so I'll go that route if I have to, but it feels stupid to do it when the rod and jag without a patch run perfectly...
The rod did indeed have a minor hangup on the ...ejector? which slightly blocks the bore path, but nothing bad: just superficial marks on the rod. Nothing that would give my 6'3" frame substantial resistance like I was feeling.

I'd rather not use a boresnake, but will if I have to.
 
Last edited:
M pro 7 cleaner should not be gel like. I use a one piece rod and have no problems.(still tight though) Useing a wet patch should make it much easier to push down the bore. Try a different cleaner.
 
A bore guide will help.
When inserting, the trigger must be pulled.
When it is taken out, there is a click.
Either the ejector or trigger can snag on coated rods.

With my first CZ, cleaning before shooting was recommended.
I must have used 3 or 4 different cleaning compounds and with each change the patches continued to have brown coloration on them but it finally scrubbed clean.
A Parker Hale coated rod would snag, probably on the ejector, and it was more than just a scratch.
Problem solved when using a bore guide and Dewey rod. The answer is probably in the 17 calibre tip, and even then some patches had to be trimmed to reduce resistance.
Getting the cleaning solution to the bore is still the answer and too tight a patch is like using a squeegee.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/8822496848_3ba32c5711_b.jpg

Using a mop or creating one as in the above example and dragging the solution from the muzzle to the chamber should help but I would not try to get it to go the other way.
 
Last edited:
Lead hammer said:
M pro 7 cleaner should not be gel like. I use a one piece rod and have no problems.(still tight though) Useing a wet patch should make it much easier to push down the bore. Try a different cleaner.
Click to expand...
I wonder if there's something wrong with it then. I ordered a full quart jug from Amazon, so it's a shame to have to try other stuff, but I will. Thanks!

horseman2 said:
A bore guide will help.
When inserting, the trigger must be pulled.
When it is taken out, there is a click.
Either the ejector or trigger can snag on coated rods.
Click to expand...
I have a bore guide, it's inserted with the trigger pulled, and when it's removed there is a click.
There's no coating, since it's carbon fibre, and the snagging on the ejector is mild, since it only leaves small scratches.
Didn't I cover this? Thanks though ;)

IanDH said:
CZ's are tight. They recommend using a .20cal rod with either a .20 cal jag or .17 cal jag and always with a bore guide.
Click to expand...
Okay, that's what I kinda figured. I will probably go this route.
It runs easily without a patch, so that's why I wasn't sure if I had to...
 
CZ coats their bores with something with the consistency of tar. It's going to take quite a while and many patches to remove it.
 
Like others said cz's are TIGHT! lol. It will take awhile for that brown goop to come out. both of my cz's were bad and took about 50-100 patches each to get clean.
 
I had the same experience with a 22 cal Dewey Rod. I though I was stupid but eventually learned the CZ is very tight so I clean it less and when I do I use a viper boresnake and give a good tight pull.
 
Use Brake Cleaner for the initial bore cleaning. It works way better than bore cleaner to get the shipping grease out. Also spray the bolt and trigger mechanism and relube after.
Kim
 
elimsprint said:
Use Brake Cleaner for the initial bore cleaning. It works way better than bore cleaner to get the shipping grease out. Also spray the bolt and trigger mechanism and relube after.
Kim
Click to expand...

Bought 3 new cz's this year and yes brake cleaner did the first nasty removal in about 3 patches with ease.Then did an oiled patch followed by a dry patch and they are all tack drivers hands down.!!

R
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom