Savage 223 at 500 yards

1ShotKing

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Hey guys,
Just thought I'd share this with all those who may be wondering what's required in a rifle/scope combo to make 500 yard shots. There are probably a few individuals looking at getting into this longer-ish shooting and are unsure how to get started, or what a decent starter set up would be. The rifle I am using is a Savage model 12 VLP DBM. I personally like the Savage line up, I like the features they offer for the price point. I'm sure this would also be possible with a decent rifle from any other manufacturer. With regards to my particular rifle, the other Savages in the model 12 line should be just as accurate as this one. I just chose the VLP DBM because it is the only rifle with the exception of the BTCSS (and I don't like thumbhole stocks) that had a 26" barrel, bolt release on the receiver, and a removable a magazine. Some people might not care for the removable magazine, and that's fine. The reason the bolt release being on the receiver was important to me is because some aftermarket stocks will not work properly with the new design which has the bolt release in the trigger guard.

The ammo I used for the 500 yard shots is Hornady 75 grain steel match. This ammo is loaded with the 75 grain BTHP bullet. I bought 150 rounds of this stuff and it has proven to be very accurate and consistent. With the 223 you really want to shoot the heavier grain stuff for better long range performance. This leads to the next point. My rifle has a 1 in 9" twist rate, meaning the rifling inside the barrel will make one complete revolution every 9 inches. This is a faster twist rate than most manufactures use in their varmint rifles, with a 1 in 12" twist rate being more popular. You need the faster twist to stabilize the heavier bullets. Savage also offers this rifle with a 1 in 7" twist rate which will allow anyone that reloads to use the heaviest possible .224 caliber bullets. Since I don't reload (yet) I opted to go with the 9" twist rate.

The scope/mounting set up is a Bushnell Elite Tactical 10x40. This is a fixed power scope so it wouldn't be an ideal scope for hunting. It has proven to have accurate elevation adjustments, I haven't used the windage for anything other than zeroing the scope. More on that in a little bit. The base I am using is a Weaver tactical 0 moa base, and the rings are low Leupold PRW. I had to cut the front portion off of the base in order to get the scope close enough for proper eye relief. It's a relatively budget minded set up, but it works.

For resting the rifle, I have a Caldwell XLA bipod which has notched legs and swivels, its a Harris clone that has proven to work just fine so far. I was also using a champion rear bag.

For determining bullet drop and wind drift, I use am app called "Bullet Drop" on my phone. I have been using the advertised velocity and ballistic coefficient for the ammo from Hornady. In the app, it will display the drop and drift in both mils and MOA. I use the elevation turret to dial the elevation in MOA, and use the mil dots to hold off for wind drift. This is where having a scope with matching reticle and turrets could be beneficial, as it would be a little simpler to use. I use a Caldwell Wind Wizard to get the wind speed, and it does a decent job. My reasoning for dialing elevation and holding for the wind is this, gravity is constant. As long as your ammo is consistent and you are doing your part, your bullet impacts should be very close vertically. The wind is trickier, and it changes fairly often and that makes a bigger difference to your point of impact. I find it easier to use the mil dots and hold off for the wind than to start dialing with the windage turret.

In the two pictures below there is a before and after shot of two Sunny D jugs I shot at 500 yards yesterday. You can see them clearly when they are full, in the second picture the two bottles are roughly below the last mildot to the left and right. I think I hit the first bottle on shot #3, and once I connected with that one the next bottle was taken out with shot #4. The bottles measure about 5.25 inches across, which is almost exactly 1MOA @ 500 yards. I was quite pleased with this.

Hopefully this helps someone who may have an interest in trying their hand at some longer range shooting.

1ShotKing





 
Nice post just bought a 12BTCSS with thumbhole and will put a Bushnell Elite on it and hope for good results.
Just starting to setup for loading and bought Sierra 69gr automatch and hope Varget will be a good match.
 
Nice post just bought a 12BTCSS with thumbhole and will put a Bushnell Elite on it and hope for good results.
Just starting to setup for loading and bought Sierra 69gr automatch and hope Varget will be a good match.

I've had good results in my Model 12 BVSS using Sierra 69gn MatchKings, with around 24.0 gn of Varget (not one-holing or anything, but I can get around .5" at 100 yards if I do my part). I'm currently playing with the seating lengths to see if I can get this down further.

Are you planning on bedding your receiver in the stock? I'd do that before too long, as it definitely helped in reducing the group sizes.

Have fun - this does get addictive!
 
I've had good results in my Model 12 BVSS using Sierra 69gn MatchKings, with around 24.0 gn of Varget (not one-holing or anything, but I can get around .5" at 100 yards if I do my part). I'm currently playing with the seating lengths to see if I can get this down further.

Are you planning on bedding your receiver in the stock? I'd do that before too long, as it definitely helped in reducing the group sizes.

Have fun - this does get addictive!

Many thanks for the Varget info that helps, not planning on bedding it.. trying everything stock..

Now I can't say that would be the case with another gun if I ever became a more than decent shooter :)

Did you try higher than 24g?
 
Many thanks for the Varget info that helps, not planning on bedding it.. trying everything stock..

Now I can't say that would be the case with another gun if I ever became a more than decent shooter :)

Did you try higher than 24g?

I tried from a low charge of (going by memory here) 23.6 or so, all the way up to 26.0, maybe 26.2. I'll confirm with my notebook tonight when I get home. There may have been another accuracy node around 26.0, if I recall correctly, but I've been concentrating on the 24.0 node as being the most promising (as well as the cheaper of the two, powder-wise...).

If you do decide to bed your next rifle (or this one), there are lots of good posts on here showing how to do it with both text and pictures (I'm a visual learner, apparently) - the link below is about the best of the bunch - I've got it bookmarked, as I'm planning on doing the other rifles sooner or later. It's a bit stressful when you're putting everything together, but as long as you're careful and make sure you get putty everywhere it needs to be, you'll be laughing afterwards at how easy it actually was when it's all done. One of the best-tasting beers I've ever had came shortly after taking the tape off the stock and finding out everything went well. :cool:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/220751-Devcon-(steel)-bedding-a-wood-stock

The only bit of advice I'd add to the above write-up is to make sure that the action is oriented correctly (action rotation-wise) to the stock when letting the epoxy cure - I accidentally gave my action a bit of a lean to the left (relative to the stock) by not closely checking this after dropping the action into the stock. Not a big thing, as I can easily correct the problem by having one bipod leg slightly longer than the other, but I would have preferred not having it that way. Live and learn...

Anyway, enough advertising for bedding - I'll update this tonight with the recorded charge numbers.
 
My rifle has a 1 in 9" twist rate, meaning the rifling inside the barrel will make one complete revolution every 9 inches. This is a faster twist rate than most manufactures use in their varmint rifles, with a 1 in 12" twist rate being more popular.

This used to be true, but nowadays actually several of the major manufacturers (e.g. Remington, Ruger, Kimber, etc) now offer .223 bolt action rifles in 1-in-9 twist, and some can be had in 1-in-8 (e.g. Tikka).
 
This used to be true, but nowadays actually several of the major manufacturers (e.g. Remington, Ruger, Kimber, etc) now offer .223 bolt action rifles in 1-in-9 twist, and some can be had in 1-in-8 (e.g. Tikka).
I am aware of this, but overall it is fair to say still that 12" is more prevalent in the varmint series of rifles. Example the Rem. SPS Varmint has the 12" twist, while the SPS tactical has the 9" twist. But yes, the Ruger, Kimber and Tikka have 9" twist rates (or faster). In my opinion, the standard twist rate for all 223 should be at least 1 in 9". My rifle shoots the light stuff well and the heavier stuff too. Much more versatile twist rate than the 12.
 
I am aware of this, but overall it is fair to say still that 12" is more prevalent in the varmint series of rifles. Example the Rem. SPS Varmint has the 12" twist, while the SPS tactical has the 9" twist. But yes, the Ruger, Kimber and Tikka have 9" twist rates (or faster). In my opinion, the standard twist rate for all 223 should be at least 1 in 9". My rifle shoots the light stuff well and the heavier stuff too. Much more versatile twist rate than the 12.

That's really why I chose mine to have both options..
 
I was looking at getting a 12VLP recently before opting to build a savage rifle, how come you chose the 9 twist when the 7twist is offered. I have read in the previous posts about shooting lower grain bullets but I'm sure that a 7 twist will still shoot 55grain bullets of good quality ie, nosler or hornady without exploding on barrel exit. I have a shilen 8 twist on order and will have to provide a range report when it arrives as it has this new ratchet style rifling that they are offering. As the barrel on my savage 10fp is a 9 twist 223 it will be interesting to see if there is an improvement in the groups when using those ###y 75grain AMAX bullets!
 
I was looking at getting a 12VLP recently before opting to build a savage rifle, how come you chose the 9 twist when the 7twist is offered. I have read in the previous posts about shooting lower grain bullets but I'm sure that a 7 twist will still shoot 55grain bullets of good quality ie, nosler or hornady without exploding on barrel exit. I have a shilen 8 twist on order and will have to provide a range report when it arrives as it has this new ratchet style rifling that they are offering. As the barrel on my savage 10fp is a 9 twist 223 it will be interesting to see if there is an improvement in the groups when using those ###y 75grain AMAX bullets!
I chose the 9 twist because I don't reload, and I've read from many sources that a savage rifle with the 9 twist will stabilize the 75 grain hornady/77 grain sierra bullets in the factory loaded ammo. That's the heaviest available to a non-reloader. I've also read that the 7 twist is fast enough to spin apart some bullets, depending on velocity. Most bullets have a certain RPM up to which they will stay intact. The 7 twist barrel is capable of surpassing the RPM rating for some bullets. At the time, I chose the 9 twist because it seemed to be the most versatile, working well with a wide range of bullet weights. Also, from reading online the 7 twist is only necessary if trying to stabilize the 90 grain bullets. The 223 doesn't really have the capacity to push the 90 grain bullets at a decent speed. If I was going to go for the 90 grain .224 caliber bullets I'd likely opt for a 22-250 AI. When I start reloading, I also plan to rebarrel with a 8 twist to allow the use of 75 & 80 grain A-MAX bullets as well. There have been reports of the 75 grain A-MAX being stabilized just fine by a factory 9 twist savage barrel. Time will tell.
 
I couldn't get the 77's (Amax or BTHP) to shoot from my 10FP, but the 77 matchkings are amazing. My current load is a 77smk over 24 gr of varget. I've shot that load in competition out to 800 yards. Black Hills ammo does a load with the 77smk until you start to reload yourself.
 
Also, from reading online the 7 twist is only necessary if trying to stabilize the 90 grain bullets. The 223 doesn't really have the capacity to push the 90 grain bullets at a decent speed. If I was going to go for the 90 grain .224 caliber bullets I'd likely opt for a 22-250 AI. When I start reloading, I also plan to rebarrel with a 8 twist to allow the use of 75 & 80 grain A-MAX bullets as well. There have been reports of the 75 grain A-MAX being stabilized just fine by a factory 9 twist savage barrel. Time will tell.

If you haven't already, I'd suggest reading Shooting A 223 Rifle To A Mile Accurately by our own Jerry Teo, of Mystic Precision.
 
I love my 223's. I rebarrelled a Remington 700 with Gaillard barrel. It features a 1:7 twist and loves the 75 gr. a-max. I took it out, accurately, to 1050 yards this summer. Cheap and fun to shoot in comparison to my .260rem build.

Good write up for people interested in our sport!
 
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