ruger mkII all weather free float or not to free float

tylerjwitty

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which have you found to result in more accuracy? I know a bipod changes poi about a inch. Im on the free float side even more so because of the stocks elastisicy. you thoughts
 
Had mine free-floated by a gunsmith noted for their stock work.
It's an older 1991 unit that had a "jug-choked" barrel, newer units are supposed to have much better factory barrels.

I've had the following done:

Free floated
Bolt lugs lapped
Barrel replaced with MacLennon match stainless barrel (setup for 20"), contour matched to the original.
Trigger replaced
Receiver drilled and tapped for Farrell rail.
Installed 20 MOA Farrell rail.
Better recoil pad installed (SC-100)
Integral sling loops removed and filled.
Sling studs installed.

I've shot it in F-class off a Harris bipod and a rear bag at distances up to 600 meters with a 4-16x42 Nikon Monarch scope.
It's not my primary F-class rifle, but it works just fine. Freaks out the other competitors with it's minimum length (20") barrel.
Sub-MOA with higher magnification from a rest w/good ammunition.

(In retrospect, I should have paid extra for the 4-16x50, there would be enough brightness/exit pupil to use the full 16x.
You need at least 3mm exit pupil even in full sunlight).
 
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Proper free-float would help w/bipod issue. It's easy to tell - you should be able to run a heavy card up the free-float clearance section of the stock
without interference while pushing down on the front of the barrel with the rifle resting on your bipod.

Similar discussion here:

ht tp://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=2&t=361522
 
(In retrospect, I should have paid extra for the 4-16x50, there would be enough brightness/exit pupil to use the full 16x.
You need at least 3mm exit pupil even in full sunlight).

Glad to hear this from a shooter.
And as you say, 3mm exit pupil is minimum, while 5mm exit pupil is required to get full advantage of the light gathering power of the scope, because our own human pupil is about 5mm across and if that matches the 5mm exit pupil of the scope, we've gone as far as we can go.
 
You can float the bbl and your gun may shoot smaller groups and it may not be affected by the bipod anymore. OR what can happen is your entire stock can become a big spring and your accuracy could be worse and you could also see a shift in zero depending on how you hold the gun and "load" your springy stock. The only way to know is to try.

The correct answer is usually to get a stiffer stock or just buy a Tikka that already comes with a stiff stock.
 
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