Kryogen, that the die set I have and it works great. It's topnotch kit, Sinclair's price is $220 and they have it in stock; if you're happy paying that, go ahead and get it. If you'd like to save $35 or more read on.
If I was doing it again I'd do things slightly differently.
I love the micrometer seater die. It is an indispensable piece of kit and is fully worth paying for. Forster also makes an excellent micrometer seating die, it's cheaper than the Redding and it is at least as good (and quite possibly a bit better, not in the sense of making better ammo but being nicer to work with and easier to use)
The "body die" in the set is a very, very useful piece of kit. (note, if you or a friend have a lathe or a drill press it is very easy to turn your existing el-cheapo full length sizing die, which you don't be needing anymore once you get setup with these competition dies, into a "body die").
In my opinion, the micrometer adjustment on the sizing die is pretty useless. Not harmful, just a "waste" of money; I never had opportunity to use that feature. Redding also makes a "Type S" bushing die, which is basically the same thing but with manual rather than micrometer adjustment
You could buy these instead:
749-006-082WS $55 - Redding Type S Neck Die
749-007-469WS $100 - Redding Comp Bullet Seater, 308 Win
-OR-
749-006-864WS $70 Forster micrometer seater
749-003-818WS $30 - Redding body die (or make your own)
I use Lapua brass and don't turn necks, and use a Redding bushing (either .335 or .336" if I recall correctly). This is my lazyman's way of getting something "good enough" for 1000yard iron sights match shooting. I accept reasonably-good but less-than-perfect uniformity in neck tension across my ammo. In my opinion, this makes ammo good enough to win a world championship iron sights match. If I were shooting F-Class, I might rethink this.
For other good .308 brass (I am thinking Norma, Winchester), I would very seriously consider using the brass as-is without neck turning. Only if the seating force varied considerably, and only if I tested "light" vs "heavy" seating force ammo at 1000 yards and saw a relevant difference in point of impact, only then would I consider doing something about it. And sorting/binning my brass would probably be something I'd do before I'd neck-turn.