Mobil 1 Grease

I use castrol bearing grease, the high temp stuff. Can run 1500+ of dirty ammo and the grease still isnt broken down.

High temp bearing grease usually has moly in it. Honda 60 is 60% moly, and is about $25 for a small tube. Once the moly gets in there though, it doesn't come out easily.
 
If your lube is too viscous for low temperatures, the solution is to use a better lube, rather than no lube. Synthetic oils generally have less change in viscosity over a given temperature range than conventional oils.

Unless you want to create friction, moving parts work better when lubricated.
 
Lots of good info here, I bought the frog lube paste but I don't like the application process so I'm going to switch and add some grease to some spots.
 
Lots of good info here, I bought the frog lube paste but I don't like the application process so I'm going to switch and add some grease to some spots.

You dont have to heat it every time...

As far as grease or motor oil for gun lube...huge fail.
 
You dont have to heat it every time...

As far as grease or motor oil for gun lube...huge fail.


Why? Gun oil lube for the most part is a snake oil sales pitch!
If Mobil 1 10/40 can hold my race bike engine together (RMZ 450 )in supermoto
At the high level RPM I am sure it would do just fine in a gun that cycles way slower then
Lube is lube and lube is a must
 
In cold climates you may even wanna consider running them dry or using dry lubricants.

Nah. G96 works in sub -50. It was on the list of recommended for my duty pistol (IE we can't use stuff that isn't). Unfortunately I have verified that it works in those low temperatures.

The greases etc, seem to have -18 temperature ratings. Grease concerns me for two reasons. 1) Viscosity issues with cold. If it thickens up this could induce failures. Stovepipes etc. 2) It seems more likely to trap the crud than oil. I'm not so sure how grease/carbon works for the longevity and functioning of the firearm. I'm sure it's fine as my Swiss Arms came with some but.. still I'm not sold on it.
 
I rub a very thin coat of grease on everything, to resist corrosion. Then I oil the parts that the springs and the gas system operate, such as the bolt carrier assy, bolt, trigger group etc.
I think they key for any lubrication is to not use too much. It only has to be 1 molecule thick between the surfaces to do its job.
 
I rub a very thin coat of grease on everything, to resist corrosion. Then I oil the parts that the springs and the gas system operate, such as the bolt carrier assy, bolt, trigger group etc.
I think they key for any lubrication is to not use too much. It only has to be 1 molecule thick between the surfaces to do its job.

I just spray mine down with G96. No corrosion issues. Even rifles I fire surplus out of look perfect. Easier than greasing it up and I know it will work in all temperatures.

 
They are trying to show that the lucas grease doesn't stay put on the surface after it is hit with the anvil, and that Amsoil still leaves a protected surface.
I don't buy their theory as it all depends on where the grease is used. In sealed bearings, shafts, and suspension parts, I'm sure the Lucas is as good as any grease. On open surfaces like tiltn load trucks the Amsoil may stick longer before being wiped dry.
 
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