Norinco 1911 Government Model + 1000 rds Combo Deal $499-

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Silly question - but when you stripped it, you gave a very good, thorough cleaning??? Like I'm talking soaking it, rubbing it down, etc... It took me about 2 hours to clean mine that just arrived today... The packing grease was incredibly nasty and pulling back the slide the first time to strip it was impossible until I soaked in in break-free...

First thing I did, especially when I couldn't rack the slide at all without cocking the hammer back first.
 
I believe AMA has 3 months probation...
AVSSC your are on probation until you meet all requirements... Can be much longer then 3 months all depends..

Can also be much shorter than 3 months if you can get out there often...
In NS i was able to buy/register/obtain long term ATT while still inside of the "probationary" period.
 
I just got the gun and ammo delivered today, thanks CanAm for the fast shipping.

I need some advice and or pointers urgently.

1) I noticed that the slide has a lot of resistance. It sticking in 1-2 distinct places as I pull it back. When I field strip, it takes a bit of effort to get the slide off the frame. Lots of resistant in the area not sure why.

2) One of the reason for the sticking, I suspect is where the front of slide meets up with the frame. When I look at the front of the gun, there is minimal gap on one side and around 1mm of gap on the other where the slide meets the frame. There seems to be a misalignment between the slide and the frame.

3) I haven't shot it yet and I am dunno if I should either hope that running half a box will at least have the gun grind steel on steel out the rough parts that may be catching.

4) Send it back to CanAm because the problems above?

Also had the same problem with FRANK'S, the grip's arrived broken but thankfully there was another set in the box.

That difference in gap sizes is the reason why the price is as low as it is.... the tolerances are not nearly as fine as they would be on a $1200 gun. That being said, my slide was a bit stiff at points too. After cleaning I worked the action over and over again and sure enough it eventually began to smooth out. Then after putting the first few hundred rounds through it things really improved. Mine functions well and the only stoppage I had was a result of the ammunition. I had a round that didn't have the flash hole so the primer detonated and the metal fragments jammed the slide. Otherwise it has functioned flawlessly. I have been able to achieve 3 inch groups at 20 yards which is sufficient for my needs.
 
That difference in gap sizes is the reason why the price is as low as it is.... the tolerances are not nearly as fine as they would be on a $1200 gun. That being said, my slide was a bit stiff at points too. After cleaning I worked the action over and over again and sure enough it eventually began to smooth out. Then after putting the first few hundred rounds through it things really improved. Mine functions well and the only stoppage I had was a result of the ammunition. I had a round that didn't have the flash hole so the primer detonated and the metal fragments jammed the slide. Otherwise it has functioned flawlessly. I have been able to achieve 3 inch groups at 20 yards which is sufficient for my needs.

Makes a lot of sense. I guess I'll break it in with a few hundred rounds and see if it still sticks in those areas. I did full disassembly then wiped, sanded, cleaned and polished every single part after I got home from work. Fingers are painful and raw (I wore out the plastic gloves) but it was worth it looking at the gun all nice and shiny - at least for now. Have it down to just catching at where the extractor sticks up from the frame. I think the tension is too high but I`m apprehensive about messing with the sear. Also takes a lot of strength to rack the slide if the hammer is not cocked but at least it can be racked. Is that normal for a Norc 1911?
 
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What gun club gives you a 3 month probation?!

It's lucky that it's only 3 months. I've been a member of a few different clubs in New Zealand. EACH club you join is required by NZ Police to keep you on a 6 month probational membership before you are allowed to keep handguns (they call them Category B firearms there) at home. So if your job has you move, it doesn't matter if you've been competing - even representing New Zealand on the national shooting team - you have to wait 6 months at your new club, arranging for the club's "armourer" to bring your guns when you want to shoot - before you can have your guns at home. AND the police won't let you take your handguns home until a police inspector has come over and checked that the safe has the following - a) minimum 6 mm thick walls and door. b) two locks. c) bolted to the building...

"A" category firearms - such as rifles and shotguns have to have a safe but the standards are lower - even a school-type locker or a locked closet will suffice.
However.... I don't think this is a requirement of the CFOs in Canada, is it? It could be the club wants to make sure you're not a meathead as a new member...
 
However.... I don't think this is a requirement of the CFOs in Canada, is it? It could be the club wants to make sure you're not a meathead as a new member...

From the range standpoint its to make sure you are safe, or as you put it.. not a meathead.

From the CFO standpoint, im not sure if there's an actual law saying you have to be a member of a club (it's on the RCMP website that you must be, but im not sure if thats backed by legislation or not), but since the CFO can approve/reject pretty much as they please, they can set additional requirements. Since there is (at least in NS) no place you are legally allowed to discharge a restricted firearm except at an authorized private range, there is no reason to own a restricted firearm unless you are a member of one such range. The CFO may choose to prevent you from obtaining a restricted firearm whilst being a probationary member because i'm sure they get a lot of people who join a range on paper, but never actually go...

What it comes down to (in NS at least, i wont speak to other provinces) is that they are going to need proof of your membership, this proof will generally be supplied to the CFO by your range, It is up to your range to determine if they consider you a member or not...
 
I just got the gun and ammo delivered today, thanks CanAm for the fast shipping.

I need some advice and or pointers urgently.

1) I noticed that the slide has a lot of resistance. It sticking in 1-2 distinct places as I pull it back. When I field strip, it takes a bit of effort to get the slide off the frame. Lots of resistant in the area not sure why.

2) One of the reason for the sticking, I suspect is where the front of slide meets up with the frame. When I look at the front of the gun, there is minimal gap on one side and around 1mm of gap on the other where the slide meets the frame. There seems to be a misalignment between the slide and the frame.

3) I haven't shot it yet and I am dunno if I should either hope that running half a box will at least have the gun grind steel on steel out the rough parts that may be catching.

4) Send it back to CanAm because the problems above?

Also had the same problem with FRANK'S, the grip's arrived broken but thankfully there was another set in the box.

I bought several of these guns from guys who bought multiples for the cheap ammo. All of them got 3 coils clipped off the hammer spring. YouTube will show you how to do that. This makes it easier to rack and lightens the trigger a bit.

On one of them I used fine lapping compound on the frame rails and racked it a few hundred times. When I handle the guns I can always tell which one got the treatment. It feels slicker.

About $12 at Crappy tire:

lappingcompund.jpg
 
About $12 at Crappy tire:

lappingcompund.jpg

Wish i learned about this before I manually sanded some parts then polished every everything down. Regardless I am gaining lots of good experience, learning something new every day from CGN members, various information/articles I can find on google and having great fun doing it.

Definitely going to work on the trigger next but not sure where to start. I'm a little heavy handed so I am apprehensive about doing tweaks on the sear spring but that will happen later on. Might do the basics of replacing trigger bow and mainhousing spring to a 17lbs from the original manufacturer specs of 23lbs. I know you said cut it 3 coils up, but I'd rather keep it as-is for future reference.

If you have any additional advice keep it coming.
 
I just concluded a loading test for 45ACP pistols. I tried 9 different loads in 14 different pistols and one revolver. Most of the pistols were 1911s of different models and makes.

The bullets used were DRG cast lead 200SWC and 225 FP.

All but two pistols got the best group with either the 200SWC over 4.3 gr of TiteGroup (780 fps) or the 225 FP over 4.3 gr of TiteGroup (750 fps).

The second test was for a load with a bit more power. 6.0 gr of Universal Clays worked well with both bullets.

All testing was at 25 yards. I shot standing with 2 hands, so my shooting errors are part of the groups.

Here is a CanAm Norinco 1911 group. The only modification to this pistol is some spring clipping and bending, as described above, a longer trigger and a set of Hogue palm swell grips. About 2 3/4":

G83TEST.jpg


Every pistol in the test shot at least one ammo combination to what I rate "Very Good". That means 10 shots comfortably in the black of a bullseye target. Some pistols shot a number of VG loads, two only shot one. The best was my SIG 220. The worst a Colt Officer's Model. One CanAm only had one VG load, but several had many. One of them was about as good as the SIG.
 
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Anyone had any problems with this guns?

A few with cracked plastic grips, but most of us planned on replacing them, anyways.
Some with marred finishes. Minor one on the slide of mine.
But having no "Norinco" or "Made in China", identifying marks, more than makes up for it.:)
 
I have no problems with Can Ammo what so ever, great people to deal with.
I had no problems with first one (grips replaced)
I just wonder why so many problems with the second one:
1) Magazine requires more than moderate force to allow full engagement even with alternate magazines.
2) Failures to feed.
3) Ejected shell casings are directed back straight at the shooter as opposed to out and to the right.
4) Slide stop fails to engage on an empty magazine.
This one's my first .45s so still learning
 
Cut 3 coils. Nothing to risk. A replacement spring is about $8.00.

Take out the 3 tine spring. Bend the left two tines back about 2 tenths of an inch.

Cutting the spring helped a little (couldn't bend the tine back through). The lapping compound was definitely the best improvement although cleaning it out was a pain. I then finished the sanded areas with polish. The slide runs significantly smoother. The only thing I cannot do is smooth the transition to the disconnector. If I slowly release the slide forward, the slide can be held back by disconnector.

Still after dumping +/-12 hours into the gun sanding and polishing all the stock parts I have a fairly good trigger pull and hammer break. Not bad for a guy with no gunsmithing experience and digging pages and pages of internet guides and advice. I think I'm going to order replacement parts from Brownell and shoot some more, once the parts arrive, I'll try some more modifications on the stock parts in case I break any.

One thing to add. I have only one problem after the modifications so far. For only ONE shot, try as I might to pull the trigger the hammer won't fall. Checked both safeties, still won't fire. After going through PROVE and reloading the mag; it went off without a hitch at all for the rest of the time at the range. Other than that, no other problems.
 
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has anyone attempted to find a 22 conversion kit for these pistols. I see a few companies offering 22 conversion kits like Marvel but do they work on the Norc?

I put a Kimber Conversion Kit on mine. It works fine and uses GSG 1911-22 clips, without problems.
However, trying to use it(conversion kit), with the full length guide rod models, either Norinco or Spartan, doesn't work.
 
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