Unarmed brass snap caps

KidGlock

KidGlock

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This post is a bit of a wild card, not sure where this goes so i put it here.

Is there anyone in the Edmonton area that reloads 9mm? Im asking because i am looking to get 10 snap caps made from brass and bullet. No primer or gunpowder. Dont get me wrong, its not to show off or look cool. The aluminum A-Zoom snap caps i have are getting munched very quickly and i have only used them for practising reloading a glock mag so far. I dont want to use them in the glock cause i know they will leave debris that is tough and tedious to get rid of. Not sure why the companys make snap caps out of S###y material but if they made them out of regular brass, they might sell them more.

cheers :ar15:
 
why snap caps? youre not gonna break a glocks firing pin with a bit of dry fire, if you REALLY want one just put a bullet in a spent brass and go with the used primer as a firing pin stop
 
KidGlock said:
This post is a bit of a wild card, not sure where this goes so i put it here.

Is there anyone in the Edmonton area that reloads 9mm? Im asking because i am looking to get 10 snap caps made from brass and bullet. No primer or gunpowder. Dont get me wrong, its not to show off or look cool. The aluminum A-Zoom snap caps i have are getting munched very quickly and i have only used them for practising reloading a glock mag so far. I dont want to use them in the glock cause i know they will leave debris that is tough and tedious to get rid of. Not sure why the companys make snap caps out of S###y material but if they made them out of regular brass, they might sell them more.

cheers :ar15:
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The A-Square units are not snap caps, they are action proving dummies. You are not supposed to drop the firing pin on them.

But...Why?

If all you want to do is build up a callus on your thumb by loading the mag a thousand tim0es for fun, load it with real ammo. Just don't stick it in the gun.

Want to do mag change drills? Pull the follower out of the mag and stick a plastic baggie of gravel or something similar in it for weight, if you feel the need.

All said and done though, pretty much everything that most guys think they need snap caps for is a recipe for a hole in the wall (best case scenario) or worse.

You won't hurt the firing pin, so really, your main concern is having the mag stop the slide cycling, so jam something in there to hold it down.

Cheers
Trev
 
I feel the need to elaborate. the need is for all things. Loading, cycling, double loads, stove pipes and all other malfunction drills. Im the kind of person who wants to be able to deal with a malfunction or any other scenario in the dark, whilst wearing sunglasses and blind as a bat.
 
If I reloaded 9mm, I would send you a few your way.

Whoever does it for you, make sure you use or modify the brass in such a way that it is 100% distinguishable from loaded ammunition. Like another CNGer has mentioned above it can get hairy when you make a mistake (which can and does happen).

Drilling a few holes in the brass, Using a distinctive shape/colour bullet (those green zombie ones may work great, if you dont use them), and putting paint on the extractor groove are all things that can help. Also following a set procedure before during and after to ensure safety (eg. inspecting snap caps before you do drills, lock away any live ammo beforehand etc).

Another tip is to tap the primer pocket to take a nylon set screw. That way the firing pin will hit the nylon set screw. When it wears down, just back the screw out a tad.
 
KidGlock said:
I feel the need to elaborate. the need is for all things. Loading, cycling, double loads, stove pipes and all other malfunction drills. Im the kind of person who wants to be able to deal with a malfunction or any other scenario in the dark, whilst wearing sunglasses and blind as a bat.
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It will be tricky to do without a bullet puller, but if you can manage to get the bullet removed from the case from a live round you can make your own.

Once the bullet is removed, either fire the primer in your gun or get some water and let case soak in it for a few minutes, then you can remove the primer with a nail or something to that effect (the primer is unlikely to go off but the water will subdue it's effect if it does)

With the empty case, use a vice to put the bullet back into the case at the same length as factory ammo.

Drill a hole in the side of the case, just under the bullet. Then get a hot glue gun and inject glue from the primer end until it comes out the side hole. Fill the primer pocket full of glue. Let dry and cut it flush to the case.


You now have a dummy round with a firing pin stop that won't hurt the firing pin, not that it's needed for a glock. The other thing the hot glue does is stop the bullet from getting pushed deeper into the case.
 
"...need is for all things..." DP rounds are for loading and unloading drills. The rest of you're malfunctions won't be duplicated with 'em.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
It will be tricky to do without a bullet puller, but if you can manage to get the bullet removed from the case from a live round you can make your own.

Once the bullet is removed, either fire the primer in your gun or get some water and let case soak in it for a few minutes, then you can remove the primer with a nail or something to that effect (the primer is unlikely to go off but the water will subdue it's effect if it does)

With the empty case, use a vice to put the bullet back into the case at the same length as factory ammo.

Drill a hole in the side of the case, just under the bullet. Then get a hot glue gun and inject glue from the primer end until it comes out the side hole. Fill the primer pocket full of glue. Let dry and cut it flush to the case.


You now have a dummy round with a firing pin stop that won't hurt the firing pin, not that it's needed for a glock. The other thing the hot glue does is stop the bullet from getting pushed deeper into the case.
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A few years ago I needed some dummy shotgun rounds, cut the side out of three rounds and drained the powder out. I let all three rounds soak in a jar of water for three days and then fired the rounds in the gun...just to make sure they were dead...all three primers fired. One of them even opened up the crimp and pluged the barrel with the wad.
 
fingers284 said:
A few years ago I needed some dummy shotgun rounds, cut the side out of three rounds and drained the powder out. I let all three rounds soak in a jar of water for three days and then fired the rounds in the gun...just to make sure they were dead...all three primers fired. One of them even opened up the crimp and pluged the barrel with the wad.
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I think the best is to spray WD-40 into the case. It will destroy the primer for sure.
 
From my experience water and oil both reduced the strength of the primer sometimes it would not go off, other times it would make a very small bang. But that was with me using a needle to get the water into the primer pocket through the flash hole.

But regardless that's why I said to fire them in the gun or remove the primer.
 
okcorral1881 said:
I think the best is to spray WD-40 into the case. It will destroy the primer for sure.
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Someone here on CGN said his friend put WD-40 in some cases and then seated bullets. They ended up firing using the WD-40 as a propellant and lodged the bullets into the barrel.
Modern primers have really tough anti-contamination coatings (depending on brand).
Personally the only way I'll trust a primer to be deactivated is if it's already been fired.
 
I have some spare 9mm brass, and some bullets. I can load up some inert cartridges for you if you pinky swear to doublecheck the things. I do not want to hear about some guy having an "accident". If I give them to you, the onus is on you to be responsible with them.

If you want I can modify the cases to make them visually identifiable, though I'm not sure if paint or marker will stick to them. Or I could drill a hole through the case or something.

Last I checked, primer construction techniques have changed in the last few decades. What worked 20 years ago may not work any more, and what works for one brand may not work for another. To my mind, the only sure way to disarm a primer is to shoot it or burn it.
 
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use nickle, or aluminium cases and drill holes through them. Identify them in some means so its clear what they are, and what live rounds aren't! lol

if you want to pay for shipping, ill make you some.
 
If you want to, you can take some cases and drill and tap the primer pocket out to 1/4"nc and use threaded plastic screws. They can be had at HD and Rona. Cut the heads off and cut a screwdriver slot in one end, thread them into the case. Screw them in a bit farther and file them off if they get too beat up. If you want a bullet seated in the case, go ahead, and drill it to 9/32 to put the plastic screw in thru it. If you are really careful, you can fill & drill the hole in the case off center, and get way more surface area, to beat up with the firing pin.
 
Stevebot-7 said:
I have some spare 9mm brass, and some bullets. I can load up some inert cartridges for you if you pinky swear to doublecheck the things. I do not want to hear about some guy having an "accident". If I give them to you, the onus is on you to be responsible with them.

If you want I can modify the cases to make them visually identifiable, though I'm not sure if paint or marker will stick to them. Or I could drill a hole through the case or something.

Last I checked, primer construction techniques have changed in the last few decades. What worked 20 years ago may not work any more, and what works for one brand may not work for another. To my mind, the only sure way to disarm a primer is to shoot it or burn it.
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They wouldnt need to be visually modified, i could also pinky swear. but since my range doesnt allow reloads and you have to use thier ammo... i just buy 100 when i go and fire them off. i dont keep ammo at home :)

painting them and what not is prbbly not a good idea. in fact thats why i want brass. the paint on the snap caps is coming off and leaving residue in the mag. i DONT want paint residue in the gun itself...
 
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KidGlock said:
They wouldnt need to be visually modified, i could also pinky swear. but since my range doesnt allow reloads and you have to use thier ammo... i just buy 100 when i go and fire them off. i dont keep ammo at home :)

painting them and what not is prbbly not a good idea. in fact thats why i want brass. the paint on the snap caps is coming off and leaving residue in the mag. i DONT want paint residue in the gun itself...
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Sounds like a pretty lame range! I would be able to afford alot of shooting, what are there ammo costs?
 
Spawn-Inc said:
Sounds like a pretty lame range! I would be able to afford alot of shooting, what are there ammo costs?
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I work nights. My ability to be up during the day is minimal coupled with the fact i am a casual shooter... I chose the least expensive range. It still gives me the ability for LTATT for any approved range. So theoreticaly i could reload and what not. But i just dont have the time.
 
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