** UPDATED DEC.20*** 1944 Lonbranch No.4 Mk1* Restoration Process

jonh172

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Hey everyone!

I'm putting a Longbranch back to her original glory and figured I'd document it, who knows, maybe SOMEone will find SOMEthing useful here!

It started out as a package deal on a sporterized 1918 No1 Mk3* and a '44 Longbranch No4 Mk1* barreled action. Picked up both for $175, went home and set out to find the pieces to put the Great War relic back together. Found a nice fella in Alberta who supplied me with a complete set of DP marked wood and metal.
All in all it turned out nice, and went to a another nice fella in Quebec! (I didn't even get a chance to fire it :( )



Now it was time for the LB! I quickly acquired 2 complete NOS wood sets (one is a Mk2, it's next in line!) and the remaining LB stamped stock metal bits.
So far, this is what I have.


All new/old stock furniture and buttplate
I'm think of dyeing the wood a rich red-brown and finishing it in danish oil and then giving it a good waxing.


Much like this Mauser sporter I recently finished


Hard to see, but LB stamped.


LB stamped trigger guard and fluted trigger.



And the barreled action! Metal is in excellent shape! Original finish is almost 100% intact aside from a few scratches, and numbers are matching.









Internals are in great shape.



Shiny 2 groove barrel



Raceways look almost un-used!


The stock socket is quite large and will require a good rasping to fit and the barrel channel is also very tight! The trigger guard barely squeezes in place but the for end/wrist face is a loose fit so I will build it up with paper shims or straight epoxy and sand to fit.

And as the barreled action is Parkerized, the stock metal bits will be parked to suit.

Stay tuned for more as it unfolds!

Jon

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Friday Nov.15/13

Got around to doing a little more today.

I started with getting the trigger guard to fit, and it wasn't easy!

As you can see, the right side rail protrudes inside the trigger guard channel, not only did the guard not seat, the stock contacts the mag release and sear.


It doesn't look like much. but it was enough to not allow the trigger guard to have a "drop in" fit like it should.


Trigger guard contact.


A good 20 thou. clearance on the right


Tight on the left


And what's this?? With the rear trigger guard screw installed, the front of the guard doesn't even fit!!


So I outlined what needed to be opened up with a pen, even the shoulders didn't fit.



Nothing a few minutes with a dremel and sanding drum couldn't fix


Perfect 20 thou clearance all the way around and drop in fit.


With the guard in place I tightened the action screw down and couldn't help but notice the wood on the action was "springy", so I did the oil and flour test to check for fit.


What I found was, no contact at any point under the receiver except a small bit at the rear.


The "springiness" was due to the action side rails being extremely tight and also the reinforce sidewalls were extremely tight, to the point where the receiver was not setting down in the stock.

Reinforce side, tight fit, essentially spreading the wood and allowing no bottom contact whatsoever.


Tight siderail contact.


The one good thing I found, what appears to be 100% contact on the draws!!


After in-letting the reinforce and side rails, the reinforce contacts the bottom of the stock fully, as well as the bottom of the mainscrew housing and rear of receiver. I may bed for 100% contact, but we will see.


Getting there!


The socket wouldn't come close to fitting, even with a few taps with a rubber mallet.


After filing some high spots


Almost there!


Perfect!


A good fit, I can't get a 5 thou. feeler between the fore-end and wrist face, so bedding may not be necessary, but we will see after the Danish oil soaks in.




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Friday Nov.22nd

Started to finish the wood today.

As you can see it needed a little sanding to get the scrapes from knocking around the bench out.


It had this ugly chunk missing where the safety sits.


So I smoothed it out.



Here's a good tip, after sanding and getting ready for stain, give the wood a wipe down with a rag dipped in alcohol, it makes blemishes appear that would otherwise have been hidden until the oil finish was applied.
These vertical lines would have ruined my day if found AFTER finishing.



The forward hand guard is used and had some old oil in it still so I had to clean it, it's not in this picture as it will need to dry before a light sanding and finish applied.
First application of stain.




This grain is gonna pop with the oil finish!


 
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The #1 looks great. Personally, I would leave the #4 wood blonde. I have a rack of #4s and no blondes in the bunch. All brunetts and redheads. It will look nice either way. I would however, hesitate to put too much of a shine on the oil finish. It wouldn't look quite correct.
 
I was thinking blonde, but I had one in the past and I really prefer the reds.
I also am not a fan of shiny stocks and my usual finishing method leaves a nice dull shine at most, much like an unissued 1950 LB I picked up.
 
Re shiny stocks: never on a lee enfield. pure linseed oil will not look like varnish. If it does, then it's not pure and shouldn't come hear a LE stock :) trust no substitutes :D
 
What's with all the "shiny stock" accuzations! I do not intend to make an LE stock "shiny", EVER! Shiny stocks do not belong on ANY milsurp!
The finish shown on that Mauser I posted is almost identical to an unfired 1950 LB No.4 Mk.1 I picked up about a year ago, so I would say it's appropriate!
I can assure everyone can rest easy knowing I will not "shine" the stock!!

:D
 
Some thoughts.

1) Your barrelled action looks like it was a DCRA club gun at one point. The DCRA inspection star on the receiver ring and the oval cartouches on the knox form point to this. Are you sure that's a 2 groove? Doesn't look like it in the pics.

2) replacement factory wood was never intended to be drop-in replacement wood. CAF Armorers were extensively trained and then apprenticed on the fine art of fitting wood to best effect, particular attention payed to fitting rifle draws and the bearing points in the Canadian Forces Technical Order. We have the latest version of the CFTO (2002, C-71-111-000/MA-000) posted at MSC. [URL="http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=332-2002-No.4-(All-Marks)-.303-Rifle-Manuals-(Complete-Set)"]w w w.milsurps.com/content.php?r=332-2002-No.4-(All-Marks)-.303-Rifle-Manuals-(Complete-Set)[/URL] and http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=332-2002-No.4-(All-Marks)-.303-Rifle-Manuals-(Complete-Set)

3) Invest in some inletting black. It's the proper tool for fitting wood. Flour is not the best for a lot of reasons. It's also not that precise compared to the right stuff (blacking).

4) I shuddered when I read dremel. I've said it before, I'll say it again. A dremel has no business on the bench of a gunsmith or armorer when working on wood. Period. Invest in some decent wood chisels and scraping tools if you plan to continue in the milsurp restoration hobby. Trust me.

5) That is a 1942 or earlier BSA-manufactured sight, not a Longbranch M1 singer sight. The latter is easily a $150+ sight on e-bay and tough to find these days. The correct sight for that rifle is a CMkIII fabricated sight.

Good luck on your project :)
 
Hi Claven!

1. I was wondering when someone was going to enlighten me on that stamp! Ya it is certainly a 2 groove barrel. So I'm guessing then the finish would not be "original", probably a re-park at some point

2.Thank you for the link! I am working on this rifle with help from the Roger Wadham publications, but I will definitely read the Canadian Technical order.

3.The flour indeed did not work great at all, I will be doing a proper fit after finishing the wood.

4.I know "dremel" is a curse word in the restoration world but I only use it for the meatier removal of wood then follow up with hand tools. NO BUBBA I PROMISE! ; )

5. The sight is the identical colour of the rest of the rifle so it must have been refinished at the same time. Bizarre that if it was a DCRA rifle that it would have been changed.

Thanks again for the info and please comment again if anything is looking a skew! I have thick skin, you won't hurt my feelings to say I'm doing something wrong!
 
I like your link. I have been "storing" No4 wood for years. Tony at TEC had a lot of the Long Branch Long Buttstocks and handguards in exc to mint condition in the past. Because of the reasonable price, it was hard not to buy it and wait for the forends in the same condition to show up. I ended up buying new Savage forends
from America to fill the void. So I have the sets. The odd Long Branch forend shows up to be included in the wood pile.
I have a few of the mint LB 303 No4's and LB/British No4 7.62x51 to use as examples in copy to replacing wood. Just never got around to replacing the oil soaked
wood on the other guns.
 
I like your link. I have been "storing" No4 wood for years. Tony at TEC had a lot of the Long Branch Long Buttstocks and handguards in exc to mint condition in the past. Because of the reasonable price, it was hard not to buy it and wait for the forends in the same condition to show up. I ended up buying new Savage forends
from America to fill the void. So I have the sets. The odd Long Branch forend shows up to be included in the wood pile.
I have a few of the mint LB 303 No4's and LB/British No4 7.62x51 to use as examples in copy to replacing wood. Just never got around to replacing the oil soaked
wood on the other guns.


Care to share?!
If you want to unload a couple sets let me know!
 
Excellent post, ordered 2 NOS stock sets from England off Ebay last week, Can't wait to see how they look and get started on my project. I have been repairing the stock on one of my # 4 rifles for the last few weeks to get some practice before starting on the new one.
Any tips no matter how small would be appreciated as it looks like I will be doing the exact same thing as you. Cheers.

Rodney
 
It appears that the receiver is stamped with a five point "Star". This would make it a Weedon not a DCRA. This would explain the Brit components on the rifle as well as the finish.

As far as tools go...use what you have. Take small carefully planned cuts as the wood can't grow back. You can blacken the metal with a candle or oil lamp then place metal in the wood to see where you have contact.

Good luck with the project.

Ron
 
It appears that the receiver is stamped with a five point "Star". This would make it a Weedon not a DCRA. This would explain the Brit components on the rifle as well as the finish.

As far as tools go...use what you have. Take small carefully planned cuts as the wood can't grow back. You can blacken the metal with a candle or oil lamp then place metal in the wood to see where you have contact.

Good luck with the project.

Ron


I looked up the stamp today and it is certainly a Weedon! Thanks for the headsup!
 
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