I have a 338-06 built on a Model 70 Winchester. It was built specifically for 225grn bullets, seated out as far as practical. The reamer is short throated, in that the base of the bullet when seated level with the base of the neck is .005 from the leade. The barrel is a Hart match grade with a 1-12 twist rate. Just enough to stabilize 225gr boat tails as well as flat base bullets. With 250 grain bullets, the groups start to open up.
I really don't like the lighter 180-200gr bullets in the 338 diameter. They shed velocity to fast and their aerodynamic profiles leave a lot to be desired.
The stock is walnut and pillar bedded. The barrel profile is standard weight. I carry it for hunting and at this stage of the game, I don't need the extra weight to lug around. Accuracy for three shots is 1moa at least right out to 750 yards.
For full disclosure, I don't like to shoot that far and will pass up such a shot, unless all of the elements have come together and I have a very solid and secure rest, have my Swarovski range finder on hand and some means of judging wind direction and speed as well as a good idea of temperatures if the sun is blazing down. At 500+ yards, the heat rising from the ground in waves, causes shimmer conditions that make it very difficult to tell where your target really is. Same goes for extreme cold, especially at long range. The light is often distorted by frost crystals in the air. I have taken a couple of shots over 500 yds but not many. As far as energy on target goes, the 225 grain bullets retain more than enough energy to do the job.
Now, OP, if you really are doing more than dreaming and decide to build such a rifle you best get your head in the right place and get really serious about having in depth knowledge of how your rifle/barrel/cartridge combination acts with a clean, cold barrel under all conditions. You will need to shoot several hundred rounds to get that knowledge. Never more than 3 shots at extreme range.
You will also need a scope that is capable of zero parallax at the ranges you want to shoot as well as closer. The scope will also need an appropriate reticle that is fine enough for precise shooting, still capable of seeing in low light and with positive, repeatable windage and elevation adjustments.
Usually, when you are shooting at extreme ranges, you have lots of time to make the proper adjustments to the turrets. This is by far the best way to get on target. Kentucky evaluations just don't cut it at those ranges. You need to know exact ranges, not guess them.
When the rifle is broken in, that's when you have an idea of the loads you're going to use. Stick with the bullet of choice and powder of choice and don't change them. Every time you do, you will have to start over with a range card and sight settings. This means, practice, practice and more practice. You will need to know the exact scope settings for ranges in 50 yard increments out to 300 yards. Then in 25 yard increments for all ranges beyond that to 750 yards and in 10 yard increments after that. Once you're out that far, the trajectory is like a rainbow and the wind has a lot more effect on drift.
Speaking of drift, at 300+ yards, you will notice the bullets have a tendency to drift in the direction of the twist. All of this has to be taken into account well before hand and recorded on a readily accessible range book that fits in your pocket or is installed on a safe spot on the butt of your stock.
If you are going to kill game, you owe them a quick kill. You also owe them the privilege of being used as a food source and not wasted because of a poor hit and wandering off into the bushes never to be found and to die hard. Think long and hard about hunting at such extreme distances.
Unless you're a serious, dedicated individual, willing to do extensive testing you are having a pipe dream.
Personally, I am not a fan of Savage rifles. That is a personal opinion only and there really isn't any basis for my dislike, other than that I find them fugly to look at and they are ergonomically incorrect for my body type.
I always hear warning bells when someone comes up with a project like this and excitedly declares they are using a Savage for the basis of the rifle. This usually indicates a relatively limited budget and important things like a good quality scope, rings, bases and bedding jobs, will be done on the cheap as well. This leads to wounded game.
I have seen some incredibly accurate Savages. Even off the shelf, some of them shoot like lazers right out to 300+ yards. As soon as new barrels are screwed onto them, all bets are off until they prove themselves again. Same goes for any rifle.
I really don't like the lighter 180-200gr bullets in the 338 diameter. They shed velocity to fast and their aerodynamic profiles leave a lot to be desired.
The stock is walnut and pillar bedded. The barrel profile is standard weight. I carry it for hunting and at this stage of the game, I don't need the extra weight to lug around. Accuracy for three shots is 1moa at least right out to 750 yards.
For full disclosure, I don't like to shoot that far and will pass up such a shot, unless all of the elements have come together and I have a very solid and secure rest, have my Swarovski range finder on hand and some means of judging wind direction and speed as well as a good idea of temperatures if the sun is blazing down. At 500+ yards, the heat rising from the ground in waves, causes shimmer conditions that make it very difficult to tell where your target really is. Same goes for extreme cold, especially at long range. The light is often distorted by frost crystals in the air. I have taken a couple of shots over 500 yds but not many. As far as energy on target goes, the 225 grain bullets retain more than enough energy to do the job.
Now, OP, if you really are doing more than dreaming and decide to build such a rifle you best get your head in the right place and get really serious about having in depth knowledge of how your rifle/barrel/cartridge combination acts with a clean, cold barrel under all conditions. You will need to shoot several hundred rounds to get that knowledge. Never more than 3 shots at extreme range.
You will also need a scope that is capable of zero parallax at the ranges you want to shoot as well as closer. The scope will also need an appropriate reticle that is fine enough for precise shooting, still capable of seeing in low light and with positive, repeatable windage and elevation adjustments.
Usually, when you are shooting at extreme ranges, you have lots of time to make the proper adjustments to the turrets. This is by far the best way to get on target. Kentucky evaluations just don't cut it at those ranges. You need to know exact ranges, not guess them.
When the rifle is broken in, that's when you have an idea of the loads you're going to use. Stick with the bullet of choice and powder of choice and don't change them. Every time you do, you will have to start over with a range card and sight settings. This means, practice, practice and more practice. You will need to know the exact scope settings for ranges in 50 yard increments out to 300 yards. Then in 25 yard increments for all ranges beyond that to 750 yards and in 10 yard increments after that. Once you're out that far, the trajectory is like a rainbow and the wind has a lot more effect on drift.
Speaking of drift, at 300+ yards, you will notice the bullets have a tendency to drift in the direction of the twist. All of this has to be taken into account well before hand and recorded on a readily accessible range book that fits in your pocket or is installed on a safe spot on the butt of your stock.
If you are going to kill game, you owe them a quick kill. You also owe them the privilege of being used as a food source and not wasted because of a poor hit and wandering off into the bushes never to be found and to die hard. Think long and hard about hunting at such extreme distances.
Unless you're a serious, dedicated individual, willing to do extensive testing you are having a pipe dream.
Personally, I am not a fan of Savage rifles. That is a personal opinion only and there really isn't any basis for my dislike, other than that I find them fugly to look at and they are ergonomically incorrect for my body type.
I always hear warning bells when someone comes up with a project like this and excitedly declares they are using a Savage for the basis of the rifle. This usually indicates a relatively limited budget and important things like a good quality scope, rings, bases and bedding jobs, will be done on the cheap as well. This leads to wounded game.
I have seen some incredibly accurate Savages. Even off the shelf, some of them shoot like lazers right out to 300+ yards. As soon as new barrels are screwed onto them, all bets are off until they prove themselves again. Same goes for any rifle.
