I have a 270 win savage axis with a bushnell 3x9x40 bone collector scope on it . the issue I have is that at 100 yards I can group 2 bullets nearly touching all day as long as I only shoot two and let the gun sit for a while and shoot 2 more ,, every time I shoot the 3 shell without waitng it pulls way left ,,, way way left I have tried firing it a few separate occations and always the same deal two great shots ,,the third way left .. can anyone help?
270 axis grouping issue
- Thread starter thebfg
- Start date
ultimate_monkey
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- victoria BC
1) you get excited and pull the shot
2) being a pencil barre its heating up and
2a) there is a pressure point on the stock some where
2b) being a el-cheapo rifle the barrel isnt as uniform as it needs to be and 1 part expands more / faster then the rest
3) check all mounts and bolts- rings, basses , action etc
2) being a pencil barre its heating up and
2a) there is a pressure point on the stock some where
2b) being a el-cheapo rifle the barrel isnt as uniform as it needs to be and 1 part expands more / faster then the rest
3) check all mounts and bolts- rings, basses , action etc
How big is the group of 3? Of 5?
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Run a 5 dollar bill under the barrel and see if there is contact with the barrel/stock.
What are you using for a front rest, and where are you placing it? If it is too far forward the stock can flex and put pressure on the barrel.
Is the stock and action tight?
Is the scope mount/rings tight?
What are you using for a front rest, and where are you placing it? If it is too far forward the stock can flex and put pressure on the barrel.
Is the stock and action tight?
Is the scope mount/rings tight?
Im betting on the barrel and a pressure point somewhere. try free floating the barrel and wait between shots to see what happens.
Also. Very cheap bases and rings. I would also check those and torque them down to spec with lock tight.
Also. Very cheap bases and rings. I would also check those and torque them down to spec with lock tight.
07blackwater
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Port Coquitlam, BC
Hot barrel. Let it cool more between shots.
My .270 does the same thing.
My .270 does the same thing.
Snug the action screws and check the barrel for free float like the others mentioned. If you are planning on shooting groups all day I think the axis in 270 is a poor choice. That's a lot of powder down a little bore in a sporter profile barrel. Try two minutes between shots and don't let it get warm.
You can work on improving it but IMO I think it's a hunting rifle and where it puts the first cold bore shot is the most important thing.
You can work on improving it but IMO I think it's a hunting rifle and where it puts the first cold bore shot is the most important thing.
It's a hunting rifle so there's nothing wrong with it. It's only supposed to shoot 1 or 2 shots accurately because that's all that needed.
If you want to shoot for groups either take your time or get a heavy barrel varmint/target rifle.
If you want to shoot for groups either take your time or get a heavy barrel varmint/target rifle.
Keep an eye on stock flex while under shooting conditions. You may also notice some rub marks on the barrel blue as tell tale signs. Your axis stock will flex a lot if you are using a sling or bipod. I normally sand out the barrel channel on plastic stocks to account for potential issues under field conditions. May be worth a look into. Like others have said some improvment in form may bring in that third shot. But to have such a significant change means some other issue is happening. Bedding that axis stock will help IMO.
Elky...
Elky...
"...it pulls way left..." You have a bedding issue. Barrel's touching the stock when it gets hot. Either free float the barrel completely(very gently sand the barrel channel until that 'Fin' clears to the chamber area of the barrel. The bedding should be under the chamber.) or put in a pressure point about 2" from the end of the forestock with regular bedding material. One or the other will fix it. Sad part is there is no way to tell whether a free floated barrel will work without trying it. Some rifles like it and some don't.
"...Run a 5 dollar bill..." Inflation is everywhere.
"...Run a 5 dollar bill..." Inflation is everywhere.
thanks guys I am not getting pressure points from stock I ran a bill down the stock , im resting on sand bags ... as for leeting the barrel cool this is a hunting rifle and if I cant take 3 accurate shots at a target right away it mine as well be a single shot , I understand the logic of it being to hot but its only 3 shots it should be off that much ... first two shot are practicly touching at inch high at 100 and the third shot I 4 inches left everytime I take the 3rd shot. I don't belive it would be flinch everytime I did snug action screws and and all scope rings and everything . even for a hunting rifle 3 shots should be closer then that at 100 yrds
So no barrel contact is confirmed. When taking three shots, are you doing so one after another or allowing the barrel to cool between shots. That can make a difference in a hunting contour barrel. Test giving 2 min between shots, or cold bore shots. Because in reality your doing this for hunting right?
Heat in the barrel can and does strange things to hunting contour barrels. That is why target shooters use heavy contour barrels because heat just affects them less. Consider that after a 17 shot string in under 15min on a 30 degree day that a target barrel will not be pleasant to touch but it still may win a competition. You may we wanting more than what the barrrel can give under hot conditions. Two quick shots in a factory contour barrel and the internal bore temperature is smokin...the heat sink around it has yet to let off that heat. Bedding the rifle may help with these affects.
Next step is to perhaps confirm your ammo. Have you match prepared the brass, double weighed each charge, and confirmed concentricity on each round? Attention to every detail in maintaining as close to perfectly matched rounds as possible makes a difference.
I have found that fliers come from inconsistency in the reloading chain....ooooorrrr....you ability to shoot groups (its an in your head thing). Cannot remember how many times I wished in the last shot in, called a flier at the shot, or just plain screwed up. Practice will iron that out over time. Maybe give a buddy a chance to shoot your rifle and see if this issue happens as well. You are trying to rule out human error.
Good luck in your quest.
Heat in the barrel can and does strange things to hunting contour barrels. That is why target shooters use heavy contour barrels because heat just affects them less. Consider that after a 17 shot string in under 15min on a 30 degree day that a target barrel will not be pleasant to touch but it still may win a competition. You may we wanting more than what the barrrel can give under hot conditions. Two quick shots in a factory contour barrel and the internal bore temperature is smokin...the heat sink around it has yet to let off that heat. Bedding the rifle may help with these affects.
Next step is to perhaps confirm your ammo. Have you match prepared the brass, double weighed each charge, and confirmed concentricity on each round? Attention to every detail in maintaining as close to perfectly matched rounds as possible makes a difference.
I have found that fliers come from inconsistency in the reloading chain....ooooorrrr....you ability to shoot groups (its an in your head thing). Cannot remember how many times I wished in the last shot in, called a flier at the shot, or just plain screwed up. Practice will iron that out over time. Maybe give a buddy a chance to shoot your rifle and see if this issue happens as well. You are trying to rule out human error.
Good luck in your quest.
Might sound stupid but have you checked your scope bases? I had this same problem on a rifle and after going through all the hoops I found a loose scope base. Tightened it down and my problem disappeared immediately. Everyone including me thought it was a barrel/heat issue, and maybe the heat effected the loose base, I don't know. But I sold it with tightening a screw.
Hell it sounds stupid but after checking the above try a different scope. I had that problem as well with a Bushnell scope I bought. Every 3 rounds the scope started to wander. Wait a bit and the scope would shoot fine then start to wander again.
Now mine is only a .243 but I've put 20 rounds through my Savage Axis without letting it cool any and my accuracy was no different from the first to the last shot.
"when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?"
Hell it sounds stupid but after checking the above try a different scope. I had that problem as well with a Bushnell scope I bought. Every 3 rounds the scope started to wander. Wait a bit and the scope would shoot fine then start to wander again.
Now mine is only a .243 but I've put 20 rounds through my Savage Axis without letting it cool any and my accuracy was no different from the first to the last shot.
"when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?"
+1
That rifle isn't made to shoot groups, it's designed to be carried around all day and then take a single perfect cold-bore shot. My buddy was getting all messed up over not being able to shoot groups with his 243 until we changed the approach. 1 or 2 shots, then let it cool off.
Where did you get the notion that a hunting rifle should be able to shoot three quick shots under 1 moa? Where did you get the notion that you need a hunting rifle that can shoot 3 quick shots under 1 MOA? Me thinks you've been spending too much time on the internet
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
Savage doesn't use specific grades of barrels for each line. A barrel is on a rack it could be going on an axis or a mod 10
Chances are your barrel bore is off axis relative the barrel - rather common. Sometimes you get the elevator and sometimes you get the shaft, when you buy a mass production rifle. You could go out and buy a 450$ barrel, and pay a few hundred to get it installed, and voila ....
