Numrich Garand Stock fit

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smeagol

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Another question for those who know or can check:

Just bought this replacement stock set made by Numrich:

IMG_0623.jpg


The trigger group almost locks up, there is about a 1/16 - 1/8" gap. The stock has a slightly raised area on the top at the rear. The heel of the receiver only contacts the top of the stock at the hump, and the rest of it has a small gap.

In the stock:
IMG_0626.jpg


Out of the stock:
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The front part of the receiver is making contact fine (the slightly sloped part under the clip latch).

IMG_0627.jpg


Where exactly is the underside of the receiver supposed to contact the stock? along the whole length or just up front at the sloped section?
 
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That's caused by too tight a fit. Compresses the wood. Not a big deal though.
That stock looks like it needs some oiling. Not unusual for a stock that's been on storage for a while. BLO or Tung oil. Tung oil gives a shiny, hard, waterproof, finish when rubbed in correctly. BLO gives a flat finish that's not as labour intensive to put on and needs re-doing periodically.
 
Do NOT touch that ledge!!! It's supposed to be like that. IF you have to remove material, build a jig and file the wood off the flat where the trigger group locks up.

Look here: http://www.trfindley.com/pgtgfix.html

IF you can get it to close on the current stock, do so. The wood will compress before the metal deforms on your parts. You want it as tight as possible to shoot well, and it will shoot loose if it's not tight enough.
 
Claven2 said:
Do NOT touch that ledge!!! It's supposed to be like that. IF you have to remove material, build a jig and file the wood off the flat where the trigger group locks up.

Look here: http://www.trfindley.com/pgtgfix.html

IF you can get it to close on the current stock, do so. The wood will compress before the metal deforms on your parts. You want it as tight as possible to shoot well, and it will shoot loose if it's not tight enough.
Click to expand...

Here is where I can get it to before I have to really pour it on. (also see the first post, I edited it with more pics). And I pushed very hard and it still didn't lock up. What kind of maximum pressure is acceptable here?

IMG_0629.jpg
 
ok, so the first thing you need to understand is that no matter what Boyd's, CMP, Numrich, Dupage, etc. says - there is no such thing as an M1 stock that does not require fitting. Drop-in doesn't exist when it comes to a stock coming off a machine that's not been fitted to a receiver yet.

The gap you see at your heel should not be there. Period. It needs to sit tight on that ledge. This means your barrelled receiver needs to get some inletting black onto it and you need to see where it's bearing. You also need to ensure the barrel is centred in the barrel channel, you may need to remove wood from specific areas inside the receiver leg inletting to get the barrel centred.

I suspect your receiver ledge (where the op rod travels) is bearing on your stock before the heel seats. If this is the case, you need to relieve wood very lightly by scraping at 90 degrees with a SHARP wood chisel. You remove tiny amounts of wood until the inletting black shows the receiver heel making good contact. The area just ahead of it where you see the step should not touch.

I suspect that once your receiver is properly seated and inlet, your trigger guard will lock into place without removing any material from the bottom of the stock.
 
No barrel on the receiver yet so should I wait to inlet once I have the barrel or is it ok to do the receiver first and adjust for the barrel once it is on?
 
I don't understand how it is that no company can make a damn stock that fits a garand. It's not like every garand is a different shape or size. I understand there are tolerances but that is true of every gun isn't it? I doubt tolerances are that loose or else parts wouldn't have been interchangeable on these guns for all this time, no?
 
smeagol said:
I don't understand how it is that no company can make a damn stock that fits a garand. It's not like every garand is a different shape or size. I understand there are tolerances but that is true of every gun isn't it? I doubt tolerances are that loose or else parts wouldn't have been interchangeable on these guns for all this time, no?
Click to expand...

I prefer one that is too tight rather than too loose, at least that way it can be carefully filed and fitted to perfection rather than a sloppy fit.
 
smeagol said:
I don't understand how it is that no company can make a damn stock that fits a garand. It's not like every garand is a different shape or size. I understand there are tolerances but that is true of every gun isn't it? I doubt tolerances are that loose or else parts wouldn't have been interchangeable on these guns for all this time, no?
Click to expand...

The M1 has a pretty difficult shape to properly machine-inlet. Even GI stocks need to be fit, they weren't drop-in either. The ones you see today will swap around because receiver tolerances were tight to each other and most stocks have already been fit to an "average" receiver by an armorer. When we could still get new-in-wrap NM birch stocks a few years back, they didn't fit a lot better than a new Boyd's, though at least the front tenons were machined to spec - lol.

I miss those new NM stocks. Some even came pre-machined for bisonite bedding at the heel and trigger housing bearing surfaces.
 
Before fitting the rifle to the stock the barrel must first be installed. The stock ferrule and the lower band must also be installed and must fit tightly. A tight lower band fit is key. The solid lower band pin is best saved for restorations. The roll pin style will give the tightest fit. If the lower band does not fit tightly and without movement then consistent stock tension and acceptable accuracy cannot be expected.
 
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While I would normally agree, the last couple Criterion barrels I installed, the solid pin had to be hammered into place - it wasn't going ANYWHERE. I think their pin mill cut is on the tighter side, likely on purpose. Also, the Criterion journals are a couple thou larger diameter than a GI barrel, so those lower bands tend to need to be hammered on and off with a hard plastic mallet. That is a good thing for shooting.

Another tip, the BMB-made rear bands are not drilled through. The pin can only go in from one side and there's a smaller diameter hole on the reverse to knock the SOLID Italian-made pin out. If you want to install a roll pin into these bands, first make sure the band's hole is drilled all the way through or there is no way to remove a hollow roll pin!
 
The tightest fitting lower band is always the best and a drive on fit is desirable. The lower band is actually quite soft and can be bent or distorted when installed or removed. In addition to loosening the fit on the barrel, this can create problems with fitting the handguards. I use a 20 inch piece of plastic electrical conduit, OD 1.055, as a lower band installation tool for the tight ones. Often the weight of the conduit itself will suffice when installing the band, but the end of the conduit can be smacked with a hammer if necessary. No damage to either the band or the barrel by doing this.

Used lower bands can be quite loose. Sometimes you can tighten up the fit enough by wrapping the barrel around the lower band seating area with a piece of aluminum foil before sliding the band into place on the barrel. Once the pin is driven in just trim off the excess foil flush with the band with a utility knife. Another alternative is to prick punch the seating area for the lower band around the barrel circumference to displace enough metal to get a tight fit, but I like to avoid this by selective fitting to get the tightest possible fit. Any good hardware store will stock 1/8 inch dia x 1/2 inch long roll pins which are the correct size for the lower band pin.
 
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