So I have a new stock on order from Boyds for my new Savage Model 12, and I have a glass bedding kit that I got from Cabelas to bed the action into the new stock when it arrives. The kit comes with some pretty good instructions, but this will be my first bedding job, so I'm wondering if anyone has any tips to make the job easier / have a better outcome? I really dont want to mess anything up.
Glass Bedding A Rifle - Any Tips?
- Thread starter AndrewNS
- Start date
Less is better. You want a decent bed around the front of the action and the recoil lug, but don't overdo it. You might be surprised how much bedding material squeezes out when you install the action; be mindful of the magazine or feed path areas!
A nice thin skim on the rear of the action is all you need.
Don't be shy with the release agent either.
When you place the action in the glass bedding, just lightly tighten the action screws, front first and then the rear; just like you would when torquing the action down. You don't want to apply full torque; save this for after the bedding has cured and you've removed the release agent.
Don't be impatient letting the bedding cure. 48hrs minimum, or whatever the instructions call for... minimum!
Bedding isn't rocket surgery, so don't be afraid of it.
I'm not a gunsmith, but this is how I was taught, and has worked well for me on about a dozen rifles.
A nice thin skim on the rear of the action is all you need.
Don't be shy with the release agent either.
When you place the action in the glass bedding, just lightly tighten the action screws, front first and then the rear; just like you would when torquing the action down. You don't want to apply full torque; save this for after the bedding has cured and you've removed the release agent.
Don't be impatient letting the bedding cure. 48hrs minimum, or whatever the instructions call for... minimum!
Bedding isn't rocket surgery, so don't be afraid of it.
I'm not a gunsmith, but this is how I was taught, and has worked well for me on about a dozen rifles.
Make sure the bedding area is clean before you start; a degreaser works well.
You can drill some holes where the compound will go, maximize the surface area for it to bond to.
If the barrel channel isn't generous, you can wrap something around the barrel to ensure it is free floating once you squeeze it into the stock.
Painters tape will limit spillage and make cleanup easier.
Careful you don't get compound down the action screw hole, put release agent on the screw just to be safe
You can drill some holes where the compound will go, maximize the surface area for it to bond to.
If the barrel channel isn't generous, you can wrap something around the barrel to ensure it is free floating once you squeeze it into the stock.
Painters tape will limit spillage and make cleanup easier.
Careful you don't get compound down the action screw hole, put release agent on the screw just to be safe
I was thinking of doing that, but I don't think that my bedding kit has enough compound in it...
Just a few tips from my experience.
1. Wrap some masking tape around the barrel near the front end just before the end of the stock, enough so that it occupies the diameter of the channel in the stock. This will help keep your stock centered and floating when the bedding compound has fully cured. Make sure you have enough "float" space between the barrel and the stock.
2. Pick up a couple 3" long bolts with the same thread pitch as your action screws. Cut the heads off the bolts and screw these into your action screws. Make a few wraps of masking tape around the bolts right up against the action so that they just fit into the stock pillars. Be generous with the release agent here! It is easier to insert the bolts through the top of the stock and help guide the action onto the bedding compound and avoid all the bedding squeeze out and risk pushing bedding compound into the action screws. The tape around the bolts will help keep the action centered.
3. Clean up as much excess bedding compound before it starts setting. You can do this with q-tips soaked with WD40. You'll need a lot of q-tips!
1. Wrap some masking tape around the barrel near the front end just before the end of the stock, enough so that it occupies the diameter of the channel in the stock. This will help keep your stock centered and floating when the bedding compound has fully cured. Make sure you have enough "float" space between the barrel and the stock.
2. Pick up a couple 3" long bolts with the same thread pitch as your action screws. Cut the heads off the bolts and screw these into your action screws. Make a few wraps of masking tape around the bolts right up against the action so that they just fit into the stock pillars. Be generous with the release agent here! It is easier to insert the bolts through the top of the stock and help guide the action onto the bedding compound and avoid all the bedding squeeze out and risk pushing bedding compound into the action screws. The tape around the bolts will help keep the action centered.
3. Clean up as much excess bedding compound before it starts setting. You can do this with q-tips soaked with WD40. You'll need a lot of q-tips!
I use devcon now, 1lb can do 3-4 rifles easy, and I use spray reloading lube for a release agent. I've done half a dozen stocks now and the #1 rule would be take your time! Lots of qtips, popsicle sticks, paper towel, solvent, and a large piece of cardboard under your workpiece with a garbage nearby. I like to mix the epoxy on a flat surface because it keeps the epoxy cool and gives you more working time, and less bubbles get mixed in. Coat both surfaces for less bubbles seems to work for me. If you have everything ready and at hand when you start you will have lots of time, just don't walk away from it!!
Donny Fenn1
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Trinimon has some good tips.
I use o-rings instead of tape around the barrel (I found them more consistent than tape wrap) depending on where you place them they can both center the barrel in the action and act as a dam to stop excessive flow of bedding compound
I use the long bolts as Trinimon suggests then clamp the action into the stock with pistol grip clamps or bar clamps I find this better than using action screws and less likely to mechanically bind the action to the stock
Don't cheap out on release agent.
I use o-rings instead of tape around the barrel (I found them more consistent than tape wrap) depending on where you place them they can both center the barrel in the action and act as a dam to stop excessive flow of bedding compound
I use the long bolts as Trinimon suggests then clamp the action into the stock with pistol grip clamps or bar clamps I find this better than using action screws and less likely to mechanically bind the action to the stock
Don't cheap out on release agent.
"...pretty good instructions..." Read 'em twice and understand 'em before starting. Like Silverado says, it ain't rocket science. No rushing.
"...don't think that my bedding kit has enough..." Does if it's an Acraglas kit.
One thing to remember is to not wait too long for the epoxy to cure before putting it in the stock. It's a chemical reaction that can't be stopped once started.
"...have enough "float"..." Yep. Not all rifles like a floated barrel, but the only way to find out if your's does is to try it. If accuracy/consistency doesn't improve putting a pressure point in, about 1-2 inches aft of the end of the forestock, isn't difficult.
"...don't think that my bedding kit has enough..." Does if it's an Acraglas kit.
One thing to remember is to not wait too long for the epoxy to cure before putting it in the stock. It's a chemical reaction that can't be stopped once started.
"...have enough "float"..." Yep. Not all rifles like a floated barrel, but the only way to find out if your's does is to try it. If accuracy/consistency doesn't improve putting a pressure point in, about 1-2 inches aft of the end of the forestock, isn't difficult.
+1 on lots of release agent
+1 on long headless bolts threaded into the action for setting down into your pillar holes... Don't use the actions screws & DO NOT tighten the action with anything other than those rubber band tubings. Also, instead of wrapping tape around the headless bolts, use heat shrink. With heat shrink you get perfect even clearance (in the case bedding flows down into the pillar when you set the action down) also makes for easier "uniform" removal when lifting out later
I did my HS Sendero stock couple weeks ago with the Miles Gilbert Kit (assume that's probably what you too got from cabelas) There's probably enough in there for two bed jobs* Only thing they skimp on is the putty. Be nice to have more in that kit.
Wish ya luck. Isn't as hard as some make it to be.. very satisfying to say "did it myself" once you've got it all cleaned up! One last thing, stick to fine hand-files for removing excess that'll flow away from the walls and inletting (like into the mag-box area n all) and be extra careful removing that excess-- file down in-to the inlet rather than up and toward yourself (that'll risk peeling away more than you want if it decides to flake at all) The excess gives a notch point that makes it easy to chip/flake from if not careful.
+1 on long headless bolts threaded into the action for setting down into your pillar holes... Don't use the actions screws & DO NOT tighten the action with anything other than those rubber band tubings. Also, instead of wrapping tape around the headless bolts, use heat shrink. With heat shrink you get perfect even clearance (in the case bedding flows down into the pillar when you set the action down) also makes for easier "uniform" removal when lifting out later
I did my HS Sendero stock couple weeks ago with the Miles Gilbert Kit (assume that's probably what you too got from cabelas) There's probably enough in there for two bed jobs* Only thing they skimp on is the putty. Be nice to have more in that kit.
Wish ya luck. Isn't as hard as some make it to be.. very satisfying to say "did it myself" once you've got it all cleaned up! One last thing, stick to fine hand-files for removing excess that'll flow away from the walls and inletting (like into the mag-box area n all) and be extra careful removing that excess-- file down in-to the inlet rather than up and toward yourself (that'll risk peeling away more than you want if it decides to flake at all) The excess gives a notch point that makes it easy to chip/flake from if not careful.
Some things Ive learned the hard way.
Use reddi rod or bolts with the heads cut off instead of actions screws. Apply some release agent to the threads so that a little squeezes out when you thread them in. This will prevent bedding compound from leaching up into the threads. Wrap the exposed threads with enough masking tape to make them a good fit in the action screw holes in the stock to properly locate the action. Apply release agent to the tape and make sure theyre long enough to grip with pliers after the compound sets. I use tight wraps of electrical tape to hold the action in AFTER squeezing it down by hand for a minute to get it seated in the stock. Stretch the tape as you wrap, and use plenty of wraps to keep a tight band on everything. Put the tape infront of the action where it can apply the most force, but doesn't get in the way of wiping compound away as it oozes out. Hydraulic pressure will want to push the action out.
Wrap a ring of masking tape around the barrel near the front of the forend before bedding. Once you're close, add a wrap at a time until the action no longer teeters (tang stays planted in stock but front of action is not lifted up)
Tape off engraving, holes or any exposed voids on the action, bedding compound can be tough to get out of these areas and it makes for less cleanup while the compound oozes out.
Apply release agent farther up the action and down the barrel than you think you need, better safe than sorry.
Plumbers putty is your friend if the kit didn't come with it or something similar. A $4 tub from home depot will do any rifle no matter how much you pack in there.
Use reddi rod or bolts with the heads cut off instead of actions screws. Apply some release agent to the threads so that a little squeezes out when you thread them in. This will prevent bedding compound from leaching up into the threads. Wrap the exposed threads with enough masking tape to make them a good fit in the action screw holes in the stock to properly locate the action. Apply release agent to the tape and make sure theyre long enough to grip with pliers after the compound sets. I use tight wraps of electrical tape to hold the action in AFTER squeezing it down by hand for a minute to get it seated in the stock. Stretch the tape as you wrap, and use plenty of wraps to keep a tight band on everything. Put the tape infront of the action where it can apply the most force, but doesn't get in the way of wiping compound away as it oozes out. Hydraulic pressure will want to push the action out.
Wrap a ring of masking tape around the barrel near the front of the forend before bedding. Once you're close, add a wrap at a time until the action no longer teeters (tang stays planted in stock but front of action is not lifted up)
Tape off engraving, holes or any exposed voids on the action, bedding compound can be tough to get out of these areas and it makes for less cleanup while the compound oozes out.
Apply release agent farther up the action and down the barrel than you think you need, better safe than sorry.
Plumbers putty is your friend if the kit didn't come with it or something similar. A $4 tub from home depot will do any rifle no matter how much you pack in there.
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