School me on Reticles
- Thread starter GunGuy34
- Start date
I use BDC reticles on my coyote and big game rifles, and I choose the specific reticle, based on the trajectory of the load. Both Zeiss and Swarovski have calculators on their sites, that will help you to see which reticle suits your load best.
For hunting, target shooting and occasional load development, the mildot is a good one. .
You can use it like a BDC with a particular load, plus when you change loads you simply utilize different mildot and spacings.
Most CF hunt/target calibers zeroed at 100 yds. will get to at least 650 yds or so with just 5 mil. Or you can zero @ 200 or 300 and get more range without turret comeups. Or you can crank up elevation or do a combination of the two.
You can use it like a BDC with a particular load, plus when you change loads you simply utilize different mildot and spacings.
Most CF hunt/target calibers zeroed at 100 yds. will get to at least 650 yds or so with just 5 mil. Or you can zero @ 200 or 300 and get more range without turret comeups. Or you can crank up elevation or do a combination of the two.
Go to your LGS and try out a bunch of them. That is what I did. I concluded that I do not like standard crosshairs as my eye tends to "wonder". I can't explain it better than that. For some reason my eyes like the German #1, #4, and post and wire... (I think that's the name)
this one
Commonly called post and crosshair, sometimes the German or the European, it is the German No.1 and it's my favourite, too, with the German No.4 a close second.
That picture is NOT a picture of a German #1 reticle.
That picture is a picture of the reticle Bushnell called a post & crosshair; Kahles, when they offered it, called it a #2 reticle [see Kahles Helia Super 1966 download] [http://www.kahles.at/eng/products/downloads/], Schmidt und Bender call it an A2 reticle, Premier Reticles calls it a #2 post and crosshair reticle, Swarovski, when they offered it, called it a #2 reticle
A German #1 reticle has 3 heavy legs (2 horizontal & 1 bottom vertical that do not touch)
(Schmidt und Bender call it an A1 reticle) [http://www.schmidtundbender.de/en/products/hunting/15-6x42-zenith.html]
The best document that I have seen that outlines the numbers for the reticles with representative drawings of them is the above-mentioned downloadable document from Kahles.
That picture is a picture of the reticle Bushnell called a post & crosshair; Kahles, when they offered it, called it a #2 reticle [see Kahles Helia Super 1966 download] [http://www.kahles.at/eng/products/downloads/], Schmidt und Bender call it an A2 reticle, Premier Reticles calls it a #2 post and crosshair reticle, Swarovski, when they offered it, called it a #2 reticle
A German #1 reticle has 3 heavy legs (2 horizontal & 1 bottom vertical that do not touch)
(Schmidt und Bender call it an A1 reticle) [http://www.schmidtundbender.de/en/products/hunting/15-6x42-zenith.html]
The best document that I have seen that outlines the numbers for the reticles with representative drawings of them is the above-mentioned downloadable document from Kahles.
BigUglyMan
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That Post and Crosshair is a nice reticle that naturally draws your eye to the centre of the scope (for me anyway).
If what you want to do is sight your scope in and then shoot at unknown distances (or non-set/random distances) and out to long range you probably want to spend the money on both a rifle and scope that are capable of playing in that particular playground. A FFP scope with a Horus reticle will let you hold over for both elevation and windage without having to hold in space or dial your corrections.
If what you want to do is sight your scope in and then shoot at unknown distances (or non-set/random distances) and out to long range you probably want to spend the money on both a rifle and scope that are capable of playing in that particular playground. A FFP scope with a Horus reticle will let you hold over for both elevation and windage without having to hold in space or dial your corrections.
Use the MilDot. Learn how to estimate ranges based on the height of your target using simple calculations. I love it. Guess-timate or educated guess, dope the wind and smack steel all day. I have shot under .39 MOA with this reticle so it's not that it isn't accurate. If you don't care for that then there are different options.
