Mosin accuracy

[Magellann]

Quick and easy way to lighten the trigger pull.

Mosin Trigger Job

M39 Trigger Job and Shimming the Receiver/Barrel End

Give these a read, and ensure that no hand guard or stock material is touching the barrel, except the last few inches. The Russians shimmed the receiver to tighten things up and put a greased felt wrap around the end of the barrel inside the stock to ensure upwards pressure. The barrels were not designed to entirely free float. Note the drawings to the right of the screen in article no.2 to see what I mean.

Also, slug your bore.

How to slug a bore.

The bore diameter in these rifles vary from .310 to .314 or so. Mine was .312, perfect for 150grn Hornady's of the same diameter. The Mosin, despite the crude sights is one of my most accurate shooters after doing these mods and tailoring my reloads to her.

Check the crown as well. If it's rough you can always order a brass crown lapping kit from Brownells. Should be about $15 or so. Google it!

Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to check mine over for all those areas mentioned.

 

[scan]

Just wanted to mention that before you do any mods try to clean your mosin with copper remover. I removed huge amount of copper, spent a lot of patches before they start come out not dark blue. And after that my Mosin started to show much better groups. I still have some copper in the barrel though, I think Russian Army issue cleaner doesn't do very well for copper and there quite a deposit in the bore since WWII.

 

[silverfoxdj]

Just wanted to mention that before you do any mods try to clean your mosin with copper remover. I removed huge amount of copper, spent a lot of patches before they start come out not dark blue. And after that my Mosin started to show much better groups. I still have some copper in the barrel though, I think Russian Army issue cleaner doesn't do very well for copper and there quite a deposit in the bore since WWII.

Very good idea..

 

[drache]

AR-15: Dead on Accuracy!

AK-47: One Dead Enemy! (Might also take out the guy beside him too )

Mosin-Nagant: Close Enough

 

[Mark-II]

Yep. I'll spend 3 or 4 days with sweets, wipe out, and plenty of patches before I'll even shoot a new milsurp of any sort, especially a Mosin.

Veritable high grade copper deposit in there

Don't spare the brushes.

 

[SHELL SHUCKER]

Yep. I'll spend 3 or 4 days with sweets, wipe out, and plenty of patches before I'll even shoot a new milsurp of any sort, especially a Mosin.

Veritable high grade copper deposit in there

Don't spare the brushes.

I agree, just make sure the brushes are nylon & not bronze. Of course, if you get an unused Polish unit, a quick clean with Wipe out will do just fine.

 

[Tyler]

Or, spare the excessive brushing and just use a good copper solvent or foaming bore cleaner. It really minimizes the passes you make with a bore brush, and this is a good thing. Both for ease of use and barrel life.

 

[marc_j]

Some things to check when you have a Mosin with a heavy or very gritty trigger. All easy to fix for free. Number 2 and 3 are the cause of the common problem of the trigger moving hard to one side or the other after a few trigger pulls.

1. Remove the bolt and ensure that the sear has proper clearance on both sides of the receiver. The sear tends to rotate clockwise against the receiver when the sear/spring screw is tightened. To keep clearance on the sear, use a sewing pin on the side opposite the bolt.
2. Remove the sear/spring screw and check the receiver for burrs. The screw hole was tapped from the top. Two of my wartime Mosins had large tapping burrs which prevented the sear from sitting flat against the receiver. Lightly file the area around the tapped hole to ensure it is smooth. (don't got to # 3 if you find a large burr)
3. Look closely at the wear mark where the sear spring contacts the trigger. This wear mark should be about half the width of the spring surface and centered. If the wear mark is off to one side you can fix this by very gently bending the spring assembly in the opposite direction. Clean the bluing off the sear with fine (400 or >) sandpaper and use a black marker to coat the surface, Refit the components and pull the trigger 10-20 times and then disassemble and check the result. You might have to do this a few times to get it right but be careful since too much bending can break or damage the spring (hasn't happened to me yet).