Does a new savage mk 2 fv barrel need breakin or not.

Does a new savage mk 2 fv barrel need breakin or not. If so how. tks

Short answer, it should get cleaned and a very lightly oiled patch followed by a couple of dry patches run through it prior to shooting.

Make sure the bore is clear of lint and then start testing various brands of rimfire ammo to see which brand shoots best from the gun. Every new rimfire will have one or several brands of ammo that they shoot more accurately with. It is seldom that all brands of ammo will give the same accuracy from the gun.
 
Give it an initial cleaning to ensure there is no debris in the barrel and go shoot. Every BNIB Savage I have ever bought was utterly filthy in the barrel when I got them. I would suggest you start with CCI ammo, they seem to always shoot better than most other stuff, in my experience anyways.
 
You can just go and shoot it and it will "settle-in" with use... but, I do a soft lap on all my new guns with a boresnake and JB Bore Paste.... smear the first 10 inches (to the bristles) of the snake with JB, and do ten pulls from breach to muzzle, then clean the snake or use a separate snake or mop and clean the bore with a Bore solvent... repeat these steps three times... then a final pull with Rem Oil or the like and go shooting... some folks never clean their rimfires... I clean after every range session or field trip... solvent swab the action, clean the bore wipe down and lubricate all metal surfaces and then give the entire gun a wipe down before storing it away again... it only takes a few minutes and keeps your weapon in tip-top condition.
 
Said no one ever, other than you. While it's true most people over clean, this advice borders on the ridiculous.

And the most damage that happens on a rimfire barrel is from cleaning. There are a lot of posts all over the place that suggest not cleaning. Have some 22's that haven't been cleaned since my grandfather was a kid and that was 65 years ago. Still shooting perfectly. But by all means clean after every shot if you feel the need.
 
While I can absolutely believe that "over cleaning" is possibly more harmful than "under cleaning", it's good to know who here believes in NEVER cleaning their guns.

Those are the ones I will be sure to avoid if they ever post any in the EE.
 
And the most damage that happens on a rimfire barrel is from cleaning. There are a lot of posts all over the place that suggest not cleaning. Have some 22's that haven't been cleaned since my grandfather was a kid and that was 65 years ago. Still shooting perfectly. But by all means clean after every shot if you feel the need.

Please, give us some credible evidence from industry sources that backs your assertion. Not some "Billy Bob" anonymous post claiming they haven't cleaned a rifle for 65 years.
 
http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/rimfire_maintenance.htm
Cleaning Rimfire Barrels

Rimfire rifle barrels are different from centerfire barrels in that they require very little cleaning and essentially no break-in procedure. We have asked several of the top rimfire shooters and gunsmiths that use our barrels about their procedures and based on our own experience, have come up with our recommendation for cleaning.

In a match-grade stainless steel hand-lapped barrel, leading is an almost nonexistent problem. Powder fouling is minimal too. It is possible however to have an accumulation of fouling in the leade area in front of the chamber. A build up here is detrimental to top accuracy.

We suggest cleaning in the following manner. After approximately 100 rounds push a dry loose patch through the barrel from the breach end. This pushes out loose fouling. Then take a tighter dry patch and work it back and forth about 10 times in the leade area, pushing it out of the barrel at the muzzle end when finished.

Every 200-300 rounds a loose (worn out) 22 caliber bronze brush, wet with solvent, should be worked back and forth in the leade area with short strokes and withdrawn from the chamber end. If there is any evidence of lead in the barrel then brushing the full length of the barrel with solvent is suggested.

Match quality bullets have a wax coating on them that aids accuracy. It may take 10-50 shots to "lay" a good coating of it down in the barrel and using solvents will only remove this desirable wax coating.

Users of the 10/22-type semi-auto barrels may have to remove the accumulated powder fouling buildup that forms on the breach end of the barrel. Extraction problems may result eventually unless solvent is used on this type of fouling.
 
So, Poppa Roberts:

How's your day going?


I have nothing but respect for all these guys yet they differ enormously over breaking-in/cleaning a gun.

I looked at the Savage website for break-in when I got my 17HMR and decided that the crazy suggested routine was for Olympic target shooters(with staff) only.
Screw it, shoot it.

I looked around here for suggestions on my new Ruger 10/22 and decided to clean out the shipping gunk, then shoot it.

So now, you are left to decide for yourself.
Because this is a question without a definite answer.
 
This is from an anschutz manual

After shooting
-Allow the rifle to warm up to room temperature with the breech and the snow cover opened.
-Carefully remove condensate from the outside parts. Dismantle the firearm and remove condensate from the individual parts as well.
-Oil the rifle (including the stock) with a suitable gun oil. Clean the barrel with a plastic brush and gun oil.
-With new rifles (up to 10,000 shots) at 1,000 shot intervals and then at a min. of 5,000 shot intervals
-Clean the barrel from the chamber to the muzzle using a suitable barrel cleaner and a brass brush.
-Do not pull the brush backwards and forwards in the barrel.
-Unscrew the brass brush outside the barrel and carefully pull the cleaning rod back through the barrel.

I know we don't all shoot anschutz rifles but if one of the best makes suggests that why wouldn't you do the same for you $150 rifle as well.

Like I said after cleaning can take a few or a lot of shooting to get back any type of consistency. Some of mine are around 10 rounds to get back some are 100 to get back to where it was. The barrels weren't dirty I was just bored. Id rather use my ammo for accurate shooting and not for seasoning a barrel. The less contact something has with the crown on the barrel the less chance of dinging it up and causing accuracy issues. Only makes sense. But by all means if you feel you have to clean an already clean gun after every 10 round be my guest.
 
When I got my FV-SR, I looked in the barell to make sure there were no spiders in it and then shot it. Got about 1000 rounds through it and it shoots five round groups in a jagged hole at 50 yds. Plenty good for me.

Now, if it was a Norinco you want to clean it lots before you shoot it.
 
While I can absolutely believe that "over cleaning" is possibly more harmful than "under cleaning", it's good to know who here believes in NEVER cleaning their guns.

Those are the ones I will be sure to avoid if they ever post any in the EE.

Don't have anymore savage 22's so no need to sell anymore
 
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