1.. The following article appeared originally in a wartime number of The
Rifleman:-
OUR military authorities occasionally issue weapons, especially to the
unfortunate Home Guard, with totally inadequate, and some cases complete
absence of, information as to how to use them. The Ross rifle is a case in
point. Most people manage eventually to worry out the mysteries of the bolt,
but generally the backsight defeats them. The Editor has asked me to ensure
that readers at least of The Rifleman shall be properly informed.
There have been several variations of this sight issued in past years,
but all those I have seen in this country are of the model described here.
It has two "Battle Sights", which are cut-away apertures both fixed to
the slide which also has an ordinary or closed Aperture.
The normal position of this slide is, of course, at the bottom of the
Leaf, and the Leaf down.
The Battle Sight which then shows is set for 600 yards. NOT 400 yards.
There is no 400 yard Battle Sight on this Ross.
If you now flip up the Leaf, the other Battle Sight shows.
This is (with the slide at the bottom as stated) set for 1,000 yards.
The idea is that, against an advancing enemy, the soldier starts
shooting, with this Battle Sight up, when they are 1,000 yards away, and
until they reach 600 yards away. He then flips the Leaf down and continues
with the 600 yard Battle Sight aiming down (if he knows the trajectory) when
they get closer. A very good idea, too-if anyone were ever told about it.
Both these Battle Sights have, as I said, cut-away Apertures. They are
variously referred to by the ignorant as "Open sights," "Modified U's,"
"Buckhorns," and all kinds of things ; and instructors instruct recruits to
"get the blade in the centre of the U and level with the shoulders." It is
pathetic! Imagine any rifle designer fitting an open sight at two inches
from the eye! Not outside Bedlam.
No-use them exactly like any other aperture. Just imagine, if you like,
that the bit of the ring cut away at the top is still there, and go ahead.
It is cut out to let more light through in bad light, and to enable you to
pick up your object quicker. But as no British soldiers or Home Guards ever
practise shooting in dusk at natural targets, they would not know this. Nor
would they know anything about the virtues of white sight-paint and shooting
with both eyes open-things which the stalker learns in his cradle and which
soldiers should be taught but never are. However, we are supposed to be
talking about the Ross Sight.
As stated, there is an ordinary Aperture, at the bottom of the slide,
which has the 1,000 yard Battle Sight at the top.
This Aperture is for all accurate deliberate fire. It is raised up the
Leaf by a quick thread screw, and on the face of the Leaf are Range Markings
in yards. This series of figures starts at zero, and then 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,
8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 hundred yards. There is no 100 yards. One hundred is
never used as a range marking in war, and if you want to set your sight
accurately for 100 for practice (grouping) you have to find the elevation,
somewhere above zero, for yourself.
On the right edge of the Leaf is a Scale. This is not another series of
hundreds of yards markings. Its zero is level with the other zero. There is
no other connection. It is meant to be used, for targeting the rifle,
exactly like the scales on civilian .22 rifle sights, which have no ranges
marked on.
This scale is marked from One to Nine. These are tenths of an inch. Each
division is again divided up into four.
One-tenth of an inch, at this sight radius, gives you, near enough, ten
minutes of angle. A quarter division therefore gives you a quarter of this,
or 21 minutes of angle; and this is the finest adjustment shown. There are
no "clicks" but you can of course set the sight to finer adjustment by
judgment. The scale is probably intended chiefly to enable a man to take
exact readings of the sight on this scale for the various ranges, if the
rifle does not agree exactly with the range markings, as it seldom does,
owing to the impossibility of standardising precisely such things as
stocking and barrel flip and jump.
Behind and at the bottom of the Leaf is a triple knurled head which
works the Windgauge. There is on the front of the Leaf a Windgauge Scale
marked in twentieths of an inch. Each of these, of course, gives five
minutes of lateral angle. They are not divided any more finely, and
intermediate settings are obtained by the knurled head.
The windgauge is, of course, a very convenient means of adjustment for
straight shooting. It should then be left alone. Wind allowance is not done
now by windgauge in military shooting.
By the way, there is a very simple way of checking the range to which
these, or any other Battle Sights are supposed to be set, as follows.
Fix the rifle firmly in a vice or the like, with the 600 yard Battle
Sight and foresight lined up correctly at a mark - any mark, at any
distance. It doesn't matter.
Now raise the Leaf (without moving the rifle) and screw up the slide
until the Aperture in the bottom of it comes correctly to the same aim. If
you have done it right, you will find that it has come up to the 600 yards
mark. That is your check.
Similarly, with the Leaf up and slide at the bottom, line up the Leaf
Battle Sight with the mark. Then screw up the slide until the Aperture comes
to the aim. It will be at the 1,000 yards mark.
You can check a P.14 or M.17 similarly, when with the P.14 you will find
that the Battle Sight aim agrees with that of the Slide Aperture at 400
yards, as a rule. I have found a few which were set for 300 yards. The
Battle Sight on the M.17 agrees with the leaf at 450 yards. This is because
the Battle Sight is identical and the same height on both rifles, and thus
gives a longer range, by 50 yards, to the higher velocity .300 cartridge.
The leaf sights are not the same, each being correctly marked at the range
elevations for its cartridge. (September, 1942.)
1..
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2.. 09-21-2012, 04:42 PM #3
