RFB initial thoughts, Range report ***JANUARY 31st ammo test at bottom of OP***
- Thread starter fireball
- Start date
It's pretty good, especially off hand. But... sub moa accuracy seems to be achieved in the US when using a suppressor. Some of the reports here with these brakes seem to also have the same result. If I can get moa or sub moa out of it, then I'll happily put a brake on it.
The improved accuracy appears to be effected by the weight on the end of the barrel.
I was told by a gunsmith/manufacturer (works on military arms) that the weight on the end of the barrel dampens (absorbs) the harmonics. He showed me some items that illustrated such.
He also suggested that my retired DND AR10, he was working on at the time, would have improved accuracy with a suppressor or a barrel weight (bloop tube) of similar dimension and weight.
I haven't had such an item made for my AR10 yet but it might be worth applying the same principal to the RFB.
I was told by a gunsmith/manufacturer (works on military arms) that the weight on the end of the barrel dampens (absorbs) the harmonics. He showed me some items that illustrated such.
He also suggested that my retired DND AR10, he was working on at the time, would have improved accuracy with a suppressor or a barrel weight (bloop tube) of similar dimension and weight.
I haven't had such an item made for my AR10 yet but it might be worth applying the same principal to the RFB.
Ok guys, I have been subscribed to that thread and really enjoy reading it.
Here is my setup:
Had it for almost two years. You can find my pictures on page 27-29.
But again, it's capable of good accuracy:
Here is all my play around results:
Muzzle brake, threaded and installed by ATRS, I don't care about warranty, worse come to worse I will pay for repair. As soft as it was shooting before, brake makes recoil non existent. I can see bullet impact through scope. Fair warning, if you are going to hunt with it, ears will ring for a few minutes.
Scope, ended up with Viper HS 2.5-10. 2.5 great for woods close shots and 10 for a bit futher. Great, bright scope.
Forward rail, a must in my opinion. Frontier has them for about 80$ shipped.
Versa pod can be quickly attached for long shots. And it moved forward and way more stable than attaching to forearm rail.
If you don't reload, then try any possible combination of bullet weights and brands.
If reloaded I found Win brass to be the best. It's softer than any other and cheap. Rem is harder and groups are bigger. I don't want to put Lapua and Norma in it, it's true 7.62x51 chamber even it's marked .308. Military stuff works great in it.
Gas setting has to be adjusted just to cycle round plus one click. Soft recoil and better groups. I have small note in my gun case with gas adjustments (ammo/summer/winter settings). Make reference point on gas setting and go up/down from there.
And I still have a question, what are you trying to achive with it? What all that hype about sub MOA?
It's not a hunting rifle, it's not a sniper gun. Sure you can hunt with it (I do) and it can be quite accurate. It's falls in category of assualt rifle with acceptable 3 inch group at 100 yards.
I spend my couple years in Soviet army and famous SVD semi-auto sniper rifle is considered to have acceptable for military use accuracy with 5 shot group in 60x75 mm rectangle (2 1/2 x 3 inch). That should make 95% of RFB owners proud of their guns.
Back to hunting, according to statistics close to 90% of animals were take at distance not exceeding 100 yards. And most of guys will agree with it. 2 inch group will allow you to shoot 300 yards easy if you will do your part behind trigger. I'm hunting with my 14 years old and he also shoots 308, but 125 TNT bullet with 37 grains of powder. Great load for young guys. Pleasure to shoot with low recoil. And we can always interchange ammo. I can shoot his ammo with gas adjustment, POI goes a bit higher and groups to 2 inch. I don't think that last deer we shot did care of MOA capability of RFB. You just have to know limitations of gun and guy behind trigger.
Bottom line is, it's a great little gun. And 2 inch group is not a disaster
Here is my setup:
Had it for almost two years. You can find my pictures on page 27-29.
But again, it's capable of good accuracy:
Here is all my play around results:
Muzzle brake, threaded and installed by ATRS, I don't care about warranty, worse come to worse I will pay for repair. As soft as it was shooting before, brake makes recoil non existent. I can see bullet impact through scope. Fair warning, if you are going to hunt with it, ears will ring for a few minutes.
Scope, ended up with Viper HS 2.5-10. 2.5 great for woods close shots and 10 for a bit futher. Great, bright scope.
Forward rail, a must in my opinion. Frontier has them for about 80$ shipped.
Versa pod can be quickly attached for long shots. And it moved forward and way more stable than attaching to forearm rail.
If you don't reload, then try any possible combination of bullet weights and brands.
If reloaded I found Win brass to be the best. It's softer than any other and cheap. Rem is harder and groups are bigger. I don't want to put Lapua and Norma in it, it's true 7.62x51 chamber even it's marked .308. Military stuff works great in it.
Gas setting has to be adjusted just to cycle round plus one click. Soft recoil and better groups. I have small note in my gun case with gas adjustments (ammo/summer/winter settings). Make reference point on gas setting and go up/down from there.
And I still have a question, what are you trying to achive with it? What all that hype about sub MOA?
It's not a hunting rifle, it's not a sniper gun. Sure you can hunt with it (I do) and it can be quite accurate. It's falls in category of assualt rifle with acceptable 3 inch group at 100 yards.
I spend my couple years in Soviet army and famous SVD semi-auto sniper rifle is considered to have acceptable for military use accuracy with 5 shot group in 60x75 mm rectangle (2 1/2 x 3 inch). That should make 95% of RFB owners proud of their guns.
Back to hunting, according to statistics close to 90% of animals were take at distance not exceeding 100 yards. And most of guys will agree with it. 2 inch group will allow you to shoot 300 yards easy if you will do your part behind trigger. I'm hunting with my 14 years old and he also shoots 308, but 125 TNT bullet with 37 grains of powder. Great load for young guys. Pleasure to shoot with low recoil. And we can always interchange ammo. I can shoot his ammo with gas adjustment, POI goes a bit higher and groups to 2 inch. I don't think that last deer we shot did care of MOA capability of RFB. You just have to know limitations of gun and guy behind trigger.
Bottom line is, it's a great little gun. And 2 inch group is not a disaster
Ok guys, I have been subscribed to that thread and really enjoy reading it.
Here is my setup:
Had it for almost two years. You can find my pictures on page 27-29.
But again, it's capable of good accuracy:
Here is all my play around results:
Muzzle brake, threaded and installed by ATRS, I don't care about warranty, worse come to worse I will pay for repair. As soft as it was shooting before, brake makes recoil non existent. I can see bullet impact through scope. Fair warning, if you are going to hunt with it, ears will ring for a few minutes.
Scope, ended up with Viper HS 2.5-10. 2.5 great for woods close shots and 10 for a bit futher. Great, bright scope.
Forward rail, a must in my opinion. Frontier has them for about 80$ shipped.
Versa pod can be quickly attached for long shots. And it moved forward and way more stable than attaching to forearm rail.
If you don't reload, then try any possible combination of bullet weights and brands.
If reloaded I found Win brass to be the best. It's softer than any other and cheap. Rem is harder and groups are bigger. I don't want to put Lapua and Norma in it, it's true 7.62x51 chamber even it's marked .308. Military stuff works great in it.
Gas setting has to be adjusted just to cycle round plus one click. Soft recoil and better groups. I have small note in my gun case with gas adjustments (ammo/summer/winter settings). Make reference point on gas setting and go up/down from there.
And I still have a question, what are you trying to achive with it? What all that hype about sub MOA?
It's not a hunting rifle, it's not a sniper gun. Sure you can hunt with it (I do) and it can be quite accurate. It's falls in category of assualt rifle with acceptable 3 inch group at 100 yards.
I spend my couple years in Soviet army and famous SVD semi-auto sniper rifle is considered to have acceptable for military use accuracy with 5 shot group in 60x75 mm rectangle (2 1/2 x 3 inch). That should make 95% of RFB owners proud of their guns.
Back to hunting, according to statistics close to 90% of animals were take at distance not exceeding 100 yards. And most of guys will agree with it. 2 inch group will allow you to shoot 300 yards easy if you will do your part behind trigger. I'm hunting with my 14 years old and he also shoots 308, but 125 TNT bullet with 37 grains of powder. Great load for young guys. Pleasure to shoot with low recoil. And we can always interchange ammo. I can shoot his ammo with gas adjustment, POI goes a bit higher and groups to 2 inch. I don't think that last deer we shot did care of MOA capability of RFB. You just have to know limitations of gun and guy behind trigger.
Bottom line is, it's a great little gun. And 2 inch group is not a disaster
Necro thread revival. Good post daragans
working on paying off a carbine model. i'm a 1/5th of the way to owning it! Now from what i understand a lot of people are putting brakes on them just for the dampening effect? since they keep saying it doesn't recoil much to begin with i'm considering a compensator instead to help with muzzle climb, a flash comp to be precise so it both compensates and hides muzzle flash. would something like this give the same benefit as the brake or would it need to be something larger and heavier? my only concern really is the large fireball often found with carbine length rifles and plain barrels.
my plan is to set her up with a Burris PEPR mount and vortex pst 2.5-10, then if i feel like it after a while i may add a bushnell first strike or similar small frame red dot on top of that.
what are people's thoughts on the DSA 20 round mags? also i noted in this thread somewhere mentioned not using steel ammo, could someone please clarify?
my plan is to set her up with a Burris PEPR mount and vortex pst 2.5-10, then if i feel like it after a while i may add a bushnell first strike or similar small frame red dot on top of that.
what are people's thoughts on the DSA 20 round mags? also i noted in this thread somewhere mentioned not using steel ammo, could someone please clarify?
The reason I put a brake is its faster follow-up/ higher rpm. The rfb does not kick but it's still a 308 so there is a big push; think of it as a shove insted of a punch.
The dsa are good but the thermold are better.
Steel ammo? Well its all about perspective. Yes it's going to be harder on the barrel, you miggt get 4500-6000 rounds instead of 6000 to 8000 per say but by paying $0.50 instead of $2 a round and a rfb barrel being around $250 from kel tec its still cheaper to shoot steel norinco surplus.
would steel cased really do that or are we talking about steel core and steel/bimetal jacketed rounds? what does the norinco stuff actually consist of? according to the CanAm site it's lead core and steelcased, doesnt mention what the jacket is made of.
Norinco 308 is a bimetal projectile.
It will wear out your barrel quicker, I've seen a lot of case ruptures on that stuff too.
