After watching Nutfancy's video of "Yoda" Terry Gardner tweaking the Tavor's trigger pack a few months ago, and with the recent announcement of triggers packs from Geissele, Timney and ShootingSight I figured I'll tweak mine before I jump in on an expensive trigger pack. The job took less than two hours, I reassembled dismantled and tested the trigger three times before I found the sweet spot. I reckon you don't polish away like crazy and ruin your trigger pack so make sure you take your time and DO NOT take any materials off the hammer or sear by sanding it down or filing it. Polishing it with the dremel will do just fine. I slightly bent the hammer spring as "Yoda" did on the posted video. It is similar to bending the legs of the hammer spring done in AR15s to lighten up the pull. I don't have a trigger pull gauge to measure what it is now, if your in the GVRD(Surrey) and wouldn't mind lending me one to measure I'd appreciate it, also I can help you tweak your trigger in return just PM me. I don't have anyone to help me take a video so pictures are the only ones I could show you guys.
I am EXTREMELY happy with the results. The creep/gritty feel is no longer present. I can honestly say that the trigger pull is a little tiny bit heavier than the modded stock trigger of my Sig516. Guesstimation is around 6-7lbs =o)
Heading to POCO Sunday so if you want to try PM and I'll meet you there, also if you have a trigger pull gauge bring it .
For those who have been looking for Nutfancy's video of "yoda" tweaking the trigger your SOL. Nutfancy took it down as Terry is making $65 tweaking these trigger packs.
Here we go.
1. Lock the trigger pack and punch out the Hammer Secure Pin halfway. DO NOT PUNCH IT OUT ALL THE WAY YOU WILL SCRATCH/DAMAGE THE PIN AND OR THE SEARS. Removing and installing this pin is the hardest part of the job.
2. Disengage the trigger by pushing the Sear Activator while holding the Hammer halfway, punch the pin out.
3. Unhook the Automatic Sear Spring from the Automatic Sear.
4. Push the Hammer Pivot out.
5. Pull out Hammer
6. Remove Hammer spring off from the hammer. Push the Sear Pivot out. (Best gunsmith tool in the world. Chopsticks) =o)
7. Remove the Sear/AutoSear, springs, etc
8. TAVOR Trigger Pack disassembled. If you have remove your trigger reset spring, the Activator Spring and Sear Plunger Spring does all the reset work.
9. Polish these areas as pointed. You can apply some oil or some type of lube prior to disassembly and work the trigger, after you disassemble you can see where the hammer makes a contact against the sear and auto sear.
10. Sear and Auto Sear
11. Reassembly. Sear engagement parts. Make sure the Sear Plunger is lubricated at this point along with the Sear Pivot Bushing
12. Reinstallation of the Sear parts into the Housing. Note the spring used. Activator Spring on the Activator side and Auto Sear Spring on the other side.
13. Best tool in the world. =o) Make sure both springs are pointed forward (pointed downwards on this picture) This is the second hardest part of the job. I use the chopstick rather than a punch to minimize scratches on parts.
Push down the Sears while you line up the holes and then insert the Sear Pivot.
14. At this point I lubricated the Sear and Auto Sear with some grease that came with my Geissele trigger.
15. Reinsert Sear Pivot.
16. Reinstall the Hammer Spring on the Hammer. Be careful not to scratch the Hammer you just polished.
17. Insert Hammer/Hammer Spring with the legs pushing against the housing.
18. Line up the Hammer hole on the Housing and insert the Hammer Pivot. Use a flathead screw driver to line up the hole on the Hammer and Hammer Pivot. Very hard to see this so use a flash light if needed.
19. Reinstall Hammer Secure Pin
20. Almost done. Prior to testing apply some grease on the Hammer.
21. Hook the Auto Sear Spring back on the Auto Sear and you are done.
Test for function. Lock the Hammer all the way back. Engage the Autosear, and push the Sear Activator.
Reinstall back into the rifle and give yourself a pat in the back =o)
Again I cant say this enough. Take your time on this, I didn't want to F#$@ed up my trigger pack and turn the Tavor into a $3000 paperweight so I reassembled dismantled and tested mine THREE times before I found the sweet spot.
I don't write/make Instructions Manual for a living so I apologize if some of these steps don't make sense to you. PM me and I'll do my best to help you out.
I am EXTREMELY happy with the results. The creep/gritty feel is no longer present. I can honestly say that the trigger pull is a little tiny bit heavier than the modded stock trigger of my Sig516. Guesstimation is around 6-7lbs =o)
Heading to POCO Sunday so if you want to try PM and I'll meet you there, also if you have a trigger pull gauge bring it .
For those who have been looking for Nutfancy's video of "yoda" tweaking the trigger your SOL. Nutfancy took it down as Terry is making $65 tweaking these trigger packs.
Here we go.
1. Lock the trigger pack and punch out the Hammer Secure Pin halfway. DO NOT PUNCH IT OUT ALL THE WAY YOU WILL SCRATCH/DAMAGE THE PIN AND OR THE SEARS. Removing and installing this pin is the hardest part of the job.
2. Disengage the trigger by pushing the Sear Activator while holding the Hammer halfway, punch the pin out.
3. Unhook the Automatic Sear Spring from the Automatic Sear.
4. Push the Hammer Pivot out.
5. Pull out Hammer
6. Remove Hammer spring off from the hammer. Push the Sear Pivot out. (Best gunsmith tool in the world. Chopsticks) =o)
7. Remove the Sear/AutoSear, springs, etc
8. TAVOR Trigger Pack disassembled. If you have remove your trigger reset spring, the Activator Spring and Sear Plunger Spring does all the reset work.
9. Polish these areas as pointed. You can apply some oil or some type of lube prior to disassembly and work the trigger, after you disassemble you can see where the hammer makes a contact against the sear and auto sear.
10. Sear and Auto Sear
11. Reassembly. Sear engagement parts. Make sure the Sear Plunger is lubricated at this point along with the Sear Pivot Bushing
12. Reinstallation of the Sear parts into the Housing. Note the spring used. Activator Spring on the Activator side and Auto Sear Spring on the other side.
13. Best tool in the world. =o) Make sure both springs are pointed forward (pointed downwards on this picture) This is the second hardest part of the job. I use the chopstick rather than a punch to minimize scratches on parts.
Push down the Sears while you line up the holes and then insert the Sear Pivot.
14. At this point I lubricated the Sear and Auto Sear with some grease that came with my Geissele trigger.
15. Reinsert Sear Pivot.
16. Reinstall the Hammer Spring on the Hammer. Be careful not to scratch the Hammer you just polished.
17. Insert Hammer/Hammer Spring with the legs pushing against the housing.
18. Line up the Hammer hole on the Housing and insert the Hammer Pivot. Use a flathead screw driver to line up the hole on the Hammer and Hammer Pivot. Very hard to see this so use a flash light if needed.
19. Reinstall Hammer Secure Pin
20. Almost done. Prior to testing apply some grease on the Hammer.
21. Hook the Auto Sear Spring back on the Auto Sear and you are done.
Test for function. Lock the Hammer all the way back. Engage the Autosear, and push the Sear Activator.
Reinstall back into the rifle and give yourself a pat in the back =o)
Again I cant say this enough. Take your time on this, I didn't want to F#$@ed up my trigger pack and turn the Tavor into a $3000 paperweight so I reassembled dismantled and tested mine THREE times before I found the sweet spot.
I don't write/make Instructions Manual for a living so I apologize if some of these steps don't make sense to you. PM me and I'll do my best to help you out.
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