Seeking advise in selecting a .22lr for benchrest shooting.

I know it's an old thread and these are nothing spectacular, but here's two 5 shot groups at 25m one after another with peep sights and Eley Team:

Vostok CM-2





These little .22LR are super fun guns. I'd love to get into competition.
 
I have a Ruger 10/22 with a duracoated stainless 20" bull barrel with a match chamber, and it hits a dime at 50 yards all day long. When the barrel gets hot, the group will loosen up. Also when it's perfectly clean it's on a nickle, so it shoots better a little dirty. The rifle cost about the same as the barrel, and I put a Hogue over-molded stock on it. This stock works really well to help tighten up your groups, and gives the rifle an adult-feel, unlike the standard 10/22 which feels short. Volquartsen hammer and extractor. End result is a decent tack-driver for under $1000. Just make sure you're not using standard ammo, a good match chamber should grab those rounds way too tight.

Oh, and there's a tonne of aftermarket parts available for this.
 
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I have a Ruger 10/22 with a duracoated stainless 20" bull barrel with a match chamber, and it hits a dime at 50 yards all day long. When the barrel gets hot, the group will loosen up. Also when it's perfectly clean it's on a nickle, so it shoots better a little dirty. The rifle cost about the same as the barrel, and I put a Hogue over-molded stock on it. This stock works really well to help tighten up your groups, and gives the rifle an adult-feel, unlike the standard 10/22 which feels short. Volquartsen hammer and extractor. End result is a decent tack-driver for under $1000. Just make sure you're not using standard ammo, a good match chamber should grab those rounds way too tight.

Oh, and there's a tonne of aftermarket parts available for this.

With all due respect "HOW DO YOU SHOOT A BULL BARREL .22" fast enough to get it hot to the point of changing you POI? And still call it a "TACK DRIVER".
 
With all due respect "HOW DO YOU SHOOT A BULL BARREL .22" fast enough to get it hot to the point of changing you POI? And still call it a "TACK DRIVER".

With all due respect, 25 rounds within a few seconds will elevate the temperature to about 40C from an ambient 25C. If you're shooting once every 30 seconds, not so much. Just saying, you get your barrel hot, no matter what you're shooting, and your groups will loosen. It's not just my rifle, just stating a fact. Never said anything about changing my POI due to heat. Heat will expand the barrel ever so slightly, and your rifling won't get as good of a "purchase" on the projectile.
 
Jeezuz either you won the 10/22 lottery or I need to find a new hobby. My 10/22 is the most innacurate gun I've ever owned and would easily be beat by my ruger MKIII. They don't measure accuracy in broadside of barn. It is still superfun, but dime accurate it has never been. 1 out of twenty are flyers.
 
Jeezuz either you won the 10/22 lottery or I need to find a new hobby. My 10/22 is the most innacurate gun I've ever owned and would easily be beat by my ruger MKIII. They don't measure accuracy in broadside of barn. It is still superfun, but dime accurate it has never been. 1 out of twenty are flyers.

Tack driver's is not an off-the-shelf 10/22. Read his post again.

NormB
 
the 10-22 is a super reliable semi auto, and probably the most reliable out there...it just works as good with bottom of the barrell bulk 22 ammo right down to match grade, mind you, it is quite innacurate, due to its rather ####ty trigger barrell etc, but those can be changed, and you can really make it shine...mind you, it will cost closer to a 1000 dollars by the time your are all done...
 
Suhl with a custom barrel and one of our stocks is an excellent way to go. Finding a Suhl could be hard, I have been looking..........

If you can find a Suhl, it may not need a barrel, Ian, lol.

A Good BR stock is always desirable, of course.

I have a Jim Williams prepped Suhl 150 that has won the 50 and 100 meter classes a number of times.
It is scary accurate.

I also have a 40X that is close, and no intro needed for my Model 37 Remington.

Regards, Dave.
 
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