Upper Receiver Vise Block

Trinimon said:
Humm, good point Dietz. I figure it would be good to have that for tightening on a flash hider/muzzle break but then again, you don't need a whole lot of torque to install those. I guess I'm a gear junkie.

I got one of these upper blocks:

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I would still use those with the method I highlighted, on the side with a block on top (with that one it would be bulletproof + exotic receiver compatible). These kind of blocks, altho this one has a part that gets inside to the top of the receiver, which is good, but still the majority don't, are more responsible for twisted receivers and broken takedown lugs than any other receiver blocks on the market. Those two lugs were not designed to take the kind of twisting torque installing a barrel nut implies just by themselves.

Also I would recommend anyone who wishes to un/install muzzle devices to not use a receiver block, but a barrel vise block, as close to the muzzle as possible. Failing to do so can very potentially result in barrel ext. index pin or receiver notch damage.
 
Separate question now: when doing an ar15 build do you check the head space with a go/no go headspace gage? It will be a Daniel defense bolt (if it matters) and barrel.

I want to make sure there is nothing I am forgetting; if there is any tools I am missing or tools that may be helpful, but not required I am open to suggestions . Don't need the hand guard tool this will be a free float hand guard.

So far I have a vice, set of 5 ar15 roll pin punches, upper/ lower vice block (will be ordering Geissele), ar15 wrench, and torque wrench. I want to make sure I order all the tools needed at the same time.
 
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kbun said:
Separate question now: when doing an ar15 build do you check the head space with a go/no go headspace gage? It will be a Daniel defense bolt (if it matters) and barrel.
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No need to check for headspace, especially so if it's a DD.
 
If the barrel extension is already part of the barrel and it is a quality brand, generally no need.

A cheap (not necessarily fool proof) way to check is before installing the new barrel, drop a factory round into it and see if it chambers without issues.

From what I've been told as a rule of thumb...

New barrel, old bolt - Verify.
Old barrel, new bolt - Verify.
New barrel, new bolt - Good to go.
 
Ok both are brand new, so won't buy the headspace gages; for both it was looking like a 65.00 dollars or so. Is there anything else I am missing?
 
Dietz said:
Also I would recommend anyone who wishes to un/install muzzle devices to not use a receiver block, but a barrel vise block, as close to the muzzle as possible. Failing to do so can very potentially result in barrel ext. index pin or receiver notch damage.
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I bought one of these a while ago and used it a couple times. At the time I cheaped out and bought the non-rubber lined one. Kinda wish I'd bought the lined one but it was 3x the cost. I use a piece of old tire inner tube to protect the barrel from getting marred. Wonder if I spray it with truck liner if that would work? :p

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Lol, I'm sure the rubber tube is doing as fine of a job as the lined blocks would. I've used leather since I had some scrap pieces laying around.

The inner tube is a smart idea. ;)
 
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