ready to stain and varnish

stefatc

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hey guys i have a savage 99c .308. I bought it used and there were lots of scratchs on it. I sand it down to the wood. Now I want to stain and varnish it. what would you suggest me? I went on youtube and now i am lost...

Thanks ;)
 
I've used tru oil several times and was satisfied with the results, it is a bit faster than traditional oil and seems to give good protection.
 
Before you use a stain on the wood put a little water or paint thinner onto a spot and check out the colour you see. The wood will darken and richen up a lot once you apply a varnish or oil finish. The spot of water or paint thinner will show you what it will look like then evaporate away. It may well be just what you want without the stain. To give you a better idea the original finish on the Savage stocks was just the varnish with no stain. So what you saw before is what you'd have again with only the finish and no stain.

I'm a big fan of the oil finish look and feel. But some folks do prefer the "encased in plastic" look you get from varnish. It is your choice.

There is a "happy middle ground" you can try. Use the varnish sort of like an oil finish. Brush it on and rub most of it off again. Do that for three or four coats and you get a pretty good durable finish with a lot less drying time and lower long term maintenance issues than oil. But without the "dipped in plastic" look you get when you brush on the varnish.

If you want the brushed on high build sort of finish then invest in a good brush intended for varnishing. The brush is just as important as the brand and type of varnish you use.

For a first timer I suggest you go with Flecto brand oil base varnish. Avoid the water based ones for this time. The oil based one is easier for a first timer to get a good finish. The oil base also brings out the colour better than the water based one. If you are not sure which one you're looking at look at the cleaning instructions. If it calls for water cleanup then it's the water based varnish. If it calls for paint thinner or mineral spirits for cleaning then it's the oil base type.

When you brush it on don't smoosh it around a lot. You'll just force air bubbles into the film. Instead lay it on with slow and lightly firm strokes that leaves a thin and even coat. The main thing here is "thin". Use only a little and build up over a number of coats instead of one or two coats.

Allow each coat to dry for a solid 24 hours to so it's not only dry to the touch but is also reasonably hard then lightly sand with 400grit sandpaper between coats. Three to four coats will produce a good build that will be all but indestructible once it dries fully.

Any paint or varnish takes a good month or so to FULLY dry and harden. It'll be dry to the touch after a few hours but the film will still be soft and easily damaged for days to weeks. So handle it with care for the first few weeks after you get the job done. After that you can darn near drive the truck over it with little or no effect.
 
I really appreciate all the replys. I will keep you inform with the final result. I think I will go with BCRider. Due to that rifle is very old and it belongs to my teenager, I will finish the job with varnish... It will be tougher ;)
 
I am finishing a rifle stock at the moment - but have done many. For me, I like boiled linseed oil thinned with paint thinner (5 parts linseed to 1 part paint thinner) for the first few coats. This allows good penetration into the pores of the wood. Then I use spar urethane (Helsman) in the mix-it is tough. I blend it with linseed oil, paint thinner at equal parts (1:1:1). All coats I leave 24 hours and 0000 steel wool between coats..apply each coat with cheescloth. The result is an indestructible finish and keeps the wood from moving.
 
I'm refinishing my rifle stock as well.
Stripped the finish last night.

I am trying Woodstock's Armorall-Tru Oil method.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108

Put six coats on tonight and happy with the look so far.
Will continue with additional coats tomorrow.

Don't be too quick to put more coats on, this stuff has to dry properly between coats.
You run the risk of building up a gummy layer of oil that will never be really dry if you put it on as thick and as fast as you are now.
A full day between coats, for the first few coats, then, two to three days between coats. It's not a race.
 
Don't be too quick to put more coats on, this stuff has to dry properly between coats.
You run the risk of building up a gummy layer of oil that will never be really dry if you put it on as thick and as fast as you are now.
A full day between coats, for the first few coats, then, two to three days between coats. It's not a race.

I'm not putting it on thick, just fast. No gummy build up at all.
Apparently the Armorall acts as a hardener.
The guy says he can put two to three dozen coats in one day.

I'll update on progress and final results.
 
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