level scope

blackbeard

blackbeard

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sorry if this has been covered. I am going to put a muzzle brake on my lr rifle.so I need all my gear true to each other. When you level your scope to your rifle, what point of reference is used on the gun, recoil lug? or the bottom of the mag well, or is there someplace else that is better?
 
There is a kit you can get for about $25.00 that has a level that goes on the receiver bridge and another that goes on the scope cap/turret. You level the rifle, then level the scope then tighten the screws!! very simple and they work, well worth the money if you mount scope(s) often. A small bubble levl fro Home Depot for about $6.00 will also work!
 
BJP said:
There is a kit you can get for about $25.00 that has a level that goes on the receiver bridge and another that goes on the scope cap/turret. You level the rifle, then level the scope then tighten the screws!! very simple and they work, well worth the money if you mount scope(s) often. A small bubble levl fro Home Depot for about $6.00 will also work!
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If you are referring to the "Wheeler level level level" I would save my money and search youtube for a scope leveling system that suits you and your gun.

I had the Wheeler system and it was junk. Finger in the glue that held the bubble level in and glue on the bubble level.

When I place both levels on a proper four foot level to see if they were true,they weren't.
 
I put my gun in a gun vise and use a magnetic roof truss dial from CT, approx. 20.00. I get the rifle level using the dial on the scope base, then level scope using top turret cap. Seems to work great. Allows you to see every single degree of angle, unlike a bubble level.
 
No need to level the rifle...lots of ppl angle it,where its most comfy for them! BUT the scope has to be level with your anti cant device,THATS whats important...........
 
quentin wipf said:
No need to level the rifle...lots of ppl angle it,where its most comfy for them! BUT the scope has to be level with your anti cant device,THATS whats important...........
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^^^ This! Spend your money on a bubble level for your scope instead and make sure that it is square to your crosshairs using the plomb bob method. Adjust the rifle to what is comfy even if the scope isn't square to it. A scope that is level to the action of a rifle ain't worth much in terms of potential accuracy if you can't adjust for cant.
 
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X3^^. My rifle is canted about 4* to the left then my adjustable butt plate another 8-10*, but my retical is plumb to the world. The only time a canted rifle is a problem is if it's a rediculous amount like 20-30*. In which case as you push out the bullet will cross over your line of site on a horizontal plane and be way left/right down range
 
Here's how I do mine. Others might have a better technique.

First wipe down rings and scope tube with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease.

Hang a plumb bob 15yrds or so away depending on your scope's minimum focus distance.

Setup the rifle up on bench vise or on a bipod or something stable so it doesn't flop around.

Do a rough setup of your scope rings and see where they need to be on your base for natural eye relief.

Lightly snug down the scope rings to the base, just finger snug should be fine for now.

Sit your scope back on the rings and see if sits with no signs of daylight between the rings and scope tube. You DON'T want to torque down your scope rings on your nice scope if they are mis-aligned or you can wreck the scope tube.

Once that's good, loosely attach the top of the scope rings, enough that you can rotate the scope but not so loose that it will slide around.

Setup behind your rifle so that it feels comfortable while sighting down the scope. Once you have your position, gently rotate the scope until the elevation line of your reticle is perfectly aligned to that of the plumb bob.

Snug down your scope rings and attach the bubble level just loose enough that you can rotate it with just a little effort and it will keep its position without slipping.

Now setup the rifle so that the reticle is still square with the plumb bob. Without disturbing the rifle's position, level the bubble level and snug it down.

Verify that the positions haven't moved. If all is good, torque down the scope rings, alternating to the opposing screw, and also the bubble level to approx 20 inch pounds. Verify once more that torquing down the screws did not mess up your settings.

You're good to go now. Just get into the habit of checking for level before every shot. :)

Don't rely on your scope caps/turret to be perfectly square to your reticle!
 
A level is a complete waste of time except to set up a completely perpendicular line at 100 yards or there abouts. The only sure fire method is to put a 30 inch line exactly perpendicular at 100 yards.Make a dot on that line near the bottom and make that your aim point.Then shoot to hit the dot which you should.Then dial up 25 moa. If you still cut the line or slightly off( to account for spin drift at longer ranges) you are good to go.
Make sure to line up your crosshair with the line.
 
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Trinimon said:
Here's how I do mine. Others might have a better technique.

First wipe down rings and scope tube with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease.

Hang a plumb bob 15yrds or so away depending on your scope's minimum focus distance.

Setup the rifle up on bench vise or on a bipod or something stable so it doesn't flop around.

Do a rough setup of your scope rings and see where they need to be on your base for natural eye relief.

Lightly snug down the scope rings to the base, just finger snug should be fine for now.

Sit your scope back on the rings and see if sits with no signs of daylight between the rings and scope tube. You DON'T want to torque down your scope rings on your nice scope if they are mis-aligned or you can wreck the scope tube.

Once that's good, loosely attach the top of the scope rings, enough that you can rotate the scope but not so loose that it will slide around.

Setup behind your rifle so that it feels comfortable while sighting down the scope. Once you have your position, gently rotate the scope until the elevation line of your reticle is perfectly aligned to that of the plumb bob.

Snug down your scope rings and attach the bubble level just loose enough that you can rotate it with just a little effort and it will keep its position without slipping.

Now setup the rifle so that the reticle is still square with the plumb bob. Without disturbing the rifle's position, level the bubble level and snug it down.

Verify that the positions haven't moved. If all is good, torque down the scope rings, alternating to the opposing screw, and also the bubble level to approx 20 inch pounds. Verify once more that torquing down the screws did not mess up your settings.

You're good to go now. Just get into the habit of checking for level before every shot. :)

Don't rely on your scope caps/turret to be perfectly square to your reticle!
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Should you not also pull the bolt and sight through the bore to make sure it is also aligned with the plumb line before tightening the scope rings? Or are you writing about the scope ring (singular) that attaches an anti cant device to your scope?
 
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Gun5tuff said:
Should you not also pull the bolt and sight through the bore to make sure it is also aligned with the plumb line before tightening the scope rings? Or are you writing about the scope ring (singular) that attaches an anti cant device to your scope?
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doesnt matter, the scope DOES NOT need to be completely plumb to the bore (with in reason) what matters is that the scope is plumb to the world each and ever shot.
 
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